D15B Vtec swap/boost/vtec/?

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OK..here we go...

the p08 uses a 1 wire o2. you shoulda went with the p28 cause it uses a 4 wire o2. but p08 will work...just use a 1 wire sensor

the TB sensor your talking about,,, is it ON the TB?? cause that would be the TPS sensor... yes you need this. there should be a plug on the harness for it. itll be yellowish(not bright yellow) in color with 3 wires green yellow red.

vaccum lines, they can be TEEed together if theres no spot on the mani for it

hope it helps

Ok..on the 1-wire o2...my original harness has a 4-wire connector for the o2, which I have installed right now (4-wire) so I'll run the d15b7 (p07) ecu for now til I get my car out of the school's shop and can wire vtec on my own time. Then I guess figure out a way to convert it to 1-wire.

Yea the TB sensor is ON the TB and it's weird cuz there's ONE plug that fits it, but it also fits another sensor...so it's on the other sensor for now which I don't know what it is but there's only 1 plug but 2 different sensors (TB and another) that it will fit. It looks like I'll have to route new wires and a new connector to the ecu or something but it's definately missing a plug.

And "TEEed"??? Is that like getting a t-shaped fitting that both hoses can go into but only goes on the motor in 1 spot?

Thanks a lot for your help man I know I'm probably getting annoying by now...but I gotta get this done lol.
 
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nahh not annoying at all.. i wouldnt be posting if i didnt want to help. well yea i guess put the o2 on the backburner for now.. but as far as vtec just get a p08 ecu (its what originally controls the d15b) and get a vtec subharness to wire it up. makes things really easy. and the 2 connectors are prolly the tps or the map sensor...pics dude!! see how it goes
 
Nah it's not the MAP the plug that fits the TPS fits another closer to the tranny. Maybe we missed it and it's there I'll of course check again but all we got earlier was 1 and we need another 1. Will the motor at least start without the TPS or the other one connected? I would think it would start with at least the starter and alternator wired.

And I have the p08 it's at the shop with the rest but I'm gonna run the p07 for now cuz the p08 won't read the 4-wire o2 and because I'm gonna do the vtec wires later.
 
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UPDATE FOR TODAY!!!!

Got it running!!!! Yup we figured out the wiring, kept the b7 original ecu in for now and it runs GREAT. Talk about a MAJOR overhaul from that d15b7...

Back when I had the b7 the car rattled like hell just on idle and it was louder than shit and it felt like it would come apart. I guess it's better now cuz it's a much newer and cleaner motor and everything was taken apart and redone bolts tightened etc. Check engine light is on tho probably because I kept the d15b IM cuz they don't do smog tests here. Haven't got the chance to test drive yet.

Anyway the old problems like the rattling, radiator fan not working, and coolant not circulating have all gone away it runs like new and it's so much smoother the new tranny is really nice now I don't have a salty feeling when I shift. Finishing touches tomorrow!

All that's left to do really is mount the radiator on right...turns out the front end of my frame is slightly bent. Dunno why, but either I'm just gonna somehow rig up my own rubber bushings for it so it doesn't touch metal to metal or something. That and I forgot to put the rear heat shield back on the exhaust manifold so I'll be doing that too.

Then later on some time when I feel like it I'll wire up Vtec and convert to 1-wire o2 so I can run the p08 ecu and have vtec. Had some fun when we left to go buy the fluids we drove this other guy's 96 civic ex coupe and we drifted EVERY turn we took in town to get to O'reilys and back haha.
 
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Yea where can I get rubber to make a bushing and how to do that for my radiator? LOL

And how do I take off the shift knob from my short-shift? I have one of those silver ones with the black textured part that EVERYONE else has but I want to buy the Spoon shift knob I think the Duracon model looks cool with the gear numbers and the Spoon logo :).

I tried unscrewing it it doesn't move tried pulling it off so I'm like wtf?
 
Update for today...

Test drive was shitty...it's running very lean it was like every 5 mph I had to shift haha. So we took a look at the service manual and had to jump the fuel pump relay and then I got fuel. So on wednesday (sp? I hate the way that fucking day is) I'm gonna check the junkyards for a 92-95 fuel pump relay if I can't find one then I'll check Honda but hopefully that's the last problem and I'm getting a new fuel filter too. I can use any 5th gen relay right or does the model matter?
 
the shift knob unscrews..prolly just really stuck on there..give it some muscle. jump the pump relay??? that dont make any sense.. did you hook up the o2 sensor?

and as far as the radiator goes.. the twin core should fit.. i dunno why it wouldnt work. is the mount bad?
 
the shift knob unscrews..prolly just really stuck on there..give it some muscle. jump the pump relay??? that dont make any sense.. did you hook up the o2 sensor?

and as far as the radiator goes.. the twin core should fit.. i dunno why it wouldnt work. is the mount bad?

Lol I thought that shift knob was supposed to unscrew...mine just keeps unscrewing but goes nowhere.

Yea we had to put a jumper on the pump relay (you know the one in the interior next to the clutch pedal) then I turned the key on (but did'nt start the motor) and that was the only way we could get fuel. Then we tested the relay itself for conductivity with a voltage meter..turns out it's no good. The o2 sensor's fine.

And about the radiator it's fine too but the frame is bent in the front so it doesn't sit low enough to clear the hood.
 
ahhh yes the ol fender bender problem.. how much lower does the hood have to go?? try cutting some of the webbing off the underside of the hood. and is the knob stuck on your new shorty shifter? or the stock shifter? and yeah..pretty much all hondas and acuras main relays around your year would work..just prolly not like from a 2000 or something
 
The hood needs less than an inch more clearance and I can't cut because it's the metal part of the hood the little part that actually goes into the latch that's banging on my radiator. So pretty much my radiator will just be mounted by some makeshift rubber bushings like I said lol.

O yea by the way I kept p/s but I yanked the a/c. It's winter and I only need heat. But Texas summers are brutal...I'm probably gonna regret that haha but o well I have the fan and the condensor but I need a new belt cuz I got lazy and snipped it instead of taking off p/s first to get it out of the way. I'd rather open the windows anyway.

I wonder what price I could get a POS 5th gen sedan from a junkyard for parts..cuz I need both kick panels, a gauge cluster with a tach, and the dash panel that goes over the cluster (since I scratched the shit out of mine removing it to check my cluster wiring since a light isn't working on it), and a couple of other things like that fuel pump relay and then once I finish up with the interior a friend of mine knows a guy at a body shop who he says will hook me up with nice exterior touch-ups for cheap. Like some dents and dings, remove the fake type r emblem from the hood and bondo/fill the holes, bondo/repaint the little panels off my z3 fenders with the vents (it fell off LOL clips are all broken), and just touch-up painting and realign the front bumper.
 
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yep....my ef's a/c worked fine but i yanked it too... id rather cruise wit the windows down and rice blaring anyway..lol fixin to get a cat back here soon..ill post a vid of how it sounds. other than the hood problem all you need is vtec and your good?
 
Yea, Vtec needs to be wired then I gotta convert from 4-wire to 1-wire o2 since I used my old harness, but I already have the po8 ecu so I'm gonna run that since I don't have to worry about emissions here :).

I don't know how to do either..I couldn't make sense out of the vtec wiring write-up in the tech articles and there's only write-ups for 1-wire to 4-wire I need the other way around. I'll probably take a look at the wiring diagrams to see which 1 of those 4 wires from my harness matches the 1-wire from the JDM sensor and splice it to the corresponding pin.

Or...wait maybe the 4-wire to 1-wire is unnecessary if that 1-wire is one of those 4 wires anyways since the p08 will only read that 1 wire...I dunno I gotta figure it out.
 
Right now I have the USDM d15b7 wiring harness. So I have the 4-wire plug, and the 4-wire sensor on the EM right now the 4-wire sensor is on and hooked up and in use. But the d15b vtec came with a 1-wire, so I DO have the 1-wire with the plug on one end and the threads for the EM on the other end, sitting in my trunk with the rest of the spare parts.

But I don't know if the p08 will work right with a USDM harness in it sending it info from a 4-wire sensor when it's programmed to read a 1-wire o2 sensor.
 
first you need another ecu(with vtec)...p07 or like the one i gots for my d15b p28...either work well just p07 uses a one wire. id go with the p28 since you got a 4 wire plug and sensor already on the exhaust mani
 
Lol I ordered the p08 with the d15b vtec and transmission. It's at the shop.

p07 is the d15b7 ecu, nonvtec. I got the p08 original for the d15b vtec.
 
lol i meant p08..damn that 7 key is sneaky..you can either get the p28 that would use the 4 wire or just swap plugs and such. you take the same color wire thats on the one wire sensor (prolly black) ground) and stick that wire into a one wire engine harness plug. ittl work just the same. the other wires are o2 heater and stuff... uneeded
 
Yea but are you sure the p08 won't be confused by having the other 3 wires in it even though they're not hooked up?

By the way if I can use the 1-wire sensor I'll give you my 4-wire for just the price of shipping :).
 
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