Help me decide on a new car
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if you want to get the car for a good price, then this is what you have to be prepared for. if you want to barter, take the difference from their offer and and what you want to get it for, then go that much below what you want it for on the first bid. or you can try the straight methond that jeffie7 suggested, and then just leave if they won't do it. and always make sure you tell them, OUT THE DOOR; don't let them tack on tt&l at the end.
well the car i want, doesnt seem to exist at any suby dealers in my area. i want a silver base 2010 WRX 5-door. ive only found 1 hatchback silver WRX, and it had all kinds of options i dont care about (exhaust, sound system, foot lights, etc) and the price was jacked up to like 27k. so any dealer i go to would have to transfer one in from somewhere, which will make them less likely to lower the price correct? its not gonna be on their lot for a while, it will come in for me. so what to do in this situation?
i am going to NASA FCU to secure my loan this week. but what do you mean the down payment doesnt mean anything to the dealer? i thought i would get approved for say $25k from the FCU, trade in the teg and give a down payment of $2-3k to the dealer, so maybe $3-4k trade+down. theoretically say a dealer agrees to $24K OTD price. then i would have them contact the FCU for the rest of the $20-21k. is this not how it works?
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You can give it to the bank and have them write the check for the full amount or have them write the check for the loan amount and pay the dealership the difference in cash/personal check. I'd pay the bank and have it rolled into the loan, looks better when buying with 1 check VS spreading it out as if you don't have enough money or high enough credit to afford it
Here's the problem with wanting a car that is hard to find. You end up paying near what they want. If its been on the lot for awhile then it wont matter because even if it is a special car, to the dealership there's nothing special about it and they will have room to go since it's taking up space for too long. However if its been there for less then 30 days, you're going to have a hard time getting the price to move.
That's the standard practice these days, and it's what helps pay my bills. I engineer these dealer add-ons such as roof racks, trailer hitches, suspension kits, ect... Where the dealer markup on the car itself is pretty low, the profit margins on accessories is huge. If Subaru designs their accessories anything like we do, most parts can be very easily removed (they will tell you otherwise). See if you can negotiate them to remove the parts, then start negotiations at a better point.
i went and applied for the loan today from the FCU. my credit score qualified me for their best rates, 4.7% straight up, and as low as 4.2% if i do direct deposit and automatic payment. i asked for a loan of $25,000, and opted the extra $300 for Gap Insurance. with no down payment i'm looking at about $450/month, but ill most likely put 2-3k down to lower my payments. this is for a 63-month loan.
sounds pretty legit to me, granted i still have to be approved, but i doubt they will have an issue giving me the loan since i make 50k+/yr, little as far as expenses, and an awesome credit score. i should hear something back in the next day or two
sounds pretty legit to me, granted i still have to be approved, but i doubt they will have an issue giving me the loan since i make 50k+/yr, little as far as expenses, and an awesome credit score. i should hear something back in the next day or two
Why gap insurance? do you plan on making only the min payments if so then its a must, however if you're at all good with your money you'll find a way to pay down the car fast making gap insurance pointless, even more so if you're already putting down money.
I wouldn't go back with a price on the email, but I don't remember what you were negotiating at or how much your extras are worth. I'd send a price back at him if you knew how much the parts you want taken off are worth on the ticker sheet, then made a price to match. At this point I'd let him set the new price on you with your new requests, then counteroffer again.
Well the car this particular salesman showed me didn't have any extras. It was a red 4-door sedan. And I want a hatch preferably silver or white. They don't have the car I want there so I said what I was looking for. I just don't know if negotiating by email, in general, is a good idea.
I would remove just this part.
" as I realize that since you work on the commission, "time is money" right? so"
It is a good no bullshit tactic to get what you want. He may not bite right away but he might come back in a week or two ready to sell. I would do the same with other dealerships. good luck!
" as I realize that since you work on the commission, "time is money" right? so"
It is a good no bullshit tactic to get what you want. He may not bite right away but he might come back in a week or two ready to sell. I would do the same with other dealerships. good luck!
This is true. I was looking at the EVO a little after it first came out. I was trying to get them to come down on the sticker price, but they would not budge. About a month later I get a call from the dealer saying they would sell it to me at invoice. I said if you had made this offer when I was looking a month ago then we would have had a deal. Then I mentioned before we waste each others time anymore that I had purchased a new truck a week after we talked last so I am not in the market for a vehicle anymore. In the end it worked out better for me, the got totaled 11months and 15,500 miles later. I ended up getting 5,000 more than what I paid for the truck from the ins company.
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