JDM B20Vtec Build

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im a huge fan of the ls 5th gear in b16/gsr transmissions without it I wont own one I cant stand being pegged out at highway speeds
 
I try to keep a positive attitude but GD dude it's a gsr trans and with an aftermarket diff.... idk where you did your "research" but the VIN registers as a 2001 Integra GS-R Aka a B18c1, also known as NOT a B16. The one thing about this thread that keeps triggering me is your presentation of speculation as fact lol. We've established through numerous occasions that both you and your "friend" have very limited knowledge of Hondas and we're trying to clarify things but you keep fighting us lol. There are ways to identify these things beyond a shadow of a doubt. So it's a GSR transmission with an aftermarket diff, and if its been apart once it probably has fresh synchros. Cracking it open again is just a waste of time unless you're grinding gears.
 
I try to keep a positive attitude but GD dude it's a gsr trans and with an aftermarket diff.... idk where you did your "research" but the VIN registers as a 2001 Integra GS-R Aka a B18c1, also known as NOT a B16. The one thing about this thread that keeps triggering me is your presentation of speculation as fact lol. We've established through numerous occasions that both you and your "friend" have very limited knowledge of Hondas and we're trying to clarify things but you keep fighting us lol. There are ways to identify these things beyond a shadow of a doubt. So it's a GSR transmission with an aftermarket diff, and if its been apart once it probably has fresh synchros. Cracking it open again is just a waste of time unless you're grinding gears.


Alright thanks man.

I won't being up the transmission anymore.

I've said before that I'm learning as I go.

I would like an LS gear though lol. I hate cruising at 4200rpms lol

I bought a civic si gauge cluster. Will post a couple pics when I get home but it still looks brand new pretty sweet find for $180 met the guy in daytona tonight.
 
I ordered a black golden eagle fuel rail with aeromotive fpr and black fittings with ss fuel lines and aeromotive fuel pressure gauge. I also ordered hondata intake manifold gasket (I've read they help with preventing detonation in the cylinder walls because it helps lower air temps) I needed one so I said why not.

And I ordered hasport torque mounts becuz I broke mine while driving.

I have also been through 2 stock axles as well. And the driver side has a torn boot now and it's about to go. Shake my head.

So I have a few questions:

Obviously the stock axles aren't cutting the mustard. So...

What are the best axles I can buy for the cheapest price that yall would recommend and trust?

I am looking for a whp rating of 500whp+

I am not sure what company to go with...

I don't want to keep tearing boots and snapping axles thats ganna get expensive quick.

I rather buy a high quality set and be done with it, knowing that their going to hold up to the power.

My goal right now is to get as close to 400whp somewhat safely if possible.

And I've bought all the supporting mods needed to make that happen.
 
I put stock replacement axles on my turbocharged hatch, it made ~420whp. I never broke one but if I had, the axle is a much easier-to-access point of failure than anything inside of the transmission. What's more, O'Reilly's sold stock replacement axles with a lifetime warranty, so I would have had free replacements if they had broken or leaked.
 
I put stock replacement axles on my turbocharged hatch, it made ~420whp. I never broke one but if I had, the axle is a much easier-to-access point of failure than anything inside of the transmission. What's more, O'Reilly's sold stock replacement axles with a lifetime warranty, so I would have had free replacements if they had broken or leaked.


I get the point about the orielly axles but I didn't understand what you mean beyond that can you elaborate?
 
I have decided that I'm going to upgrade the head. I found a local shop that will PnP, 2mm oversize Stainless+polished valves, supertech springs, retainers, seals, locks ect...

For about $1500

That should go nicely with my skunk2 intake manifold and throttle body.

That way I won't have to worry about over revving it or valve float

Plus it will help me make more power on lower levels of boost.

I'm seriously thinking about leaving the bottom end stock,

I've seen countless videos of stock b20vtec's making 450whp on around 20-25lbs of boost with a t3/t4 type turbo 57 trim - 60 trim

What do yall think?
 
The stock b20 bottom end will not like 450 whp. It might last for a video, but it isn't going to last long.

My point with the axles is that I'd rather break an axle than something inside of the transmission. If you make the axles the weak point intentionally, it could prevent you from breaking parts of the transmission. The choice is yours, though - this was just my philosophy.
 
I thought B20b rods were thicker and the sleeves were thicker than other b20 blocks is that not true?
 
because pretty much all stock honda rods fail not much after 10psi and thats a fact
 
You can push boost and cross your fingers. Guys do it all the time.

IMO Stock block daily driver should be 8-9lbs. But if you're pushing for a specific hp number.....do what you want. 350whp in a Civic is a ton of fun and a handful.
 
I originally wanted to run 15lbs of boost.

But I will be happy if I can squeeze 12 lbs of boost out of it.

Do you think I can push it to 12 lbs and it stay together or you think its too risky? If everything goes according to plan I should be tuning it on either Thursday or Friday this week. I have the dyno picked out and I have someone that can tune hondata and has 10 years experience. Very knowledgable guy.

Just waiting for the rest of my parts to come in.

I am replacing the block plug, distributor, Vtec upper and lower gasket, IACV orings, and I am replacing all the hoses, dip stick tube, and I am upgrading to better clamps.

I am doing all of this as a preventive measure because one I have parts of the motor apart right now so everything is easy to get to and second I don't want to deal with it later or have down time on the dyno.
 
worry about how much boost to run when it is time to set boost pressure, 15psi will 110% grenade a stock b20 bottom end every day ending in Y
 
Why are we talking in psi? Boost pressure has never, nor will it ever, correlate to specific power levels or reliability.

I've seen this time and time again with the R35. The stock turbos (with full bolt ons and E85) are far more dangerous than a larger frame turbo. Why? The stock (tiny) turbos generate more torque on less boost than larger frame turbos running higher boost pressures. Larger frame turbos will generate more peak HP but less torque because of the change in spool time. Guess which setup loves to bend rods? That's right, the stock turbo setup.

That said, you are still leaving out one large variable: the tune. The tune is the biggest factor in reliability of an aftermarket turbocharged Honda.
 
Why are we talking in psi? Boost pressure has never, nor will it ever, correlate to specific power levels or reliability.

I've seen this time and time again with the R35. The stock turbos (with full bolt ons and E85) are far more dangerous than a larger frame turbo. Why? The stock (tiny) turbos generate more torque on less boost than larger frame turbos running higher boost pressures. Larger frame turbos will generate more peak HP but less torque because of the change in spool time. Guess which setup loves to bend rods? That's right, the stock turbo setup.

My point is that power breaks shit, not boost pressure.
you are very much soo correct , Velocity > Turbo psi , idk the parts list is a mile long for this car and we have only seen some mix maxed pictures, a title, and a $40 free shipping ebay header, I dont have much faith in it but its a pretty active thread
 
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