kelsodeez
Active Member
thanks man. yea, keeping a track vehicle clean is a bitch but at least the downtime between track days will give me time to repair/clean/add to the car.
sigh... another build thread. but this one will also end without epicness
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thanks man. yea, keeping a track vehicle clean is a bitch but at least the downtime between track days will give me time to repair/clean/add to the car.
Now get to going! Wire that bitch! Throw a 5 gallon bucket upside down and you got a seat.
Is that the same color we talked about? No....it can't be...way too dark. But its still a pastel. I like it better then the Stark Audi b/c its a bigger contrast to the engine bay color.
Is that the same color we talked about? No....it can't be...way too dark. But its still a pastel. I like it better then the Stark Audi b/c its a bigger contrast to the engine bay color.
kelsodeez
Active Member
its actually a saab color. dolphin gray. the two audi colors had pearl in them and the aviator gray was too light and the nimbus gray was too dark. i actually saw this color on a saab when i was on my way to the paint shop. it was meant to be haha.
oh and i already have a bride seat. i have a list of shit i need to get it running and the list is long
kelsodeez
Active Member
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
You read my mind.
Might I ask how you support the build of the car? Some mighty expensive parts in there.
kelsodeez
Active Member
man whoringYou read my mind.
Might I ask how you support the build of the car? Some mighty expensive parts in there.
haha nah. im not working right now but i get 1300 a month from unemployment and a little less than 2 grand a month from a federal grant for school. working the system ftw!
oh and i make as many parts as i can. the VC breather box i made. i powdercoated my valve cover by myself , the wheels were left over from my fit build and everything else is pretty much budget stuff.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Dayum! 
cant wait to see it in the light.
What kit is that you're using? Did you piece it together yourself? If so, which caliper and which rotors are you using? I've been trying to find a kit that fits under a 15x7.
Fuel cells are in section 15.4. A fuel cell is too much work with the newer rules, I would use the stock tank or put one back if you already removed it.
•There must be a solid metal bulkhead completely separating the fuel tank, fuel
pump, fuel cell, filler neck hoses, and/or vent lines, from the driver compartment.
• The cell must contain a bladder that is FIA FT-3 (or higher) rated.
• The cell should be in a container made of at least 0.036-inch steel, 0.059-inch
aluminum, or 0.125-inch Marlex, fully surrounding the bladder.
• Foam internal baffling is required, as per FIA FT3-1999 (or higher).
• The filler cap, line, vents hoses, etc. should be designed so that no fuel will
escape if the car is partially or totally inverted.
• There should be a small drain hole in the outside box to purge fuel trapped
between the bladder and the box.
• Filler necks should not be mounted through a window panel (exceptions may be
made at the discretion of the Chief Scrutineer).
• The competitor is responsible for ensuring that the cell, bladder, and components
are installed, maintained, and replaced per the manufacturer’s instructions and in
accordance with applicable sections of the CCR.
• The bladder has a date of manufacture and serial number. The competitor is
responsible to note this in the front of the logbook.
• Bladders older than 5 years should not be used, no exceptions.
• As a January 1, 2009 the competitor will be responsible for showing proof of the
age of the bladder. It is highly recommended that the receipt for the purchase of
the bladder (or entire cell) be stored with the Vehicle Logbook.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...ywy3xDVOjiBB89CwA&sig2=tPQ3QiKcdduiBVAAbCHWsg
kelsodeez
Active Member
okay cool. i guess the idea of putting the filler neck through the rear quarter glass is out of the question. ill just put it on the backside of the car. i am going to be using a fuelsafe with a sheet metal aluminum box to encase it.
for my brakes, i called fastbrakes up, told them what i wanted and what i was using it for. if you are using a common wheel like i am (volk ce28) a lot of times, they can test fit them in their shop to see if they clear the wheel.
the calipers are 4 piston dynapros and the rotors were brembo blanks off of a newer civic but i forget exactly what model civic. i recommend going through fastbrakes. the guy upgraded my pads to race compound when i told him they were going on a track car without charging me extra. i paid about 850 for the whole front kit and that included braided lines, pads, rotors, calipers, brackets and caliper spacers.
for my brakes, i called fastbrakes up, told them what i wanted and what i was using it for. if you are using a common wheel like i am (volk ce28) a lot of times, they can test fit them in their shop to see if they clear the wheel.
the calipers are 4 piston dynapros and the rotors were brembo blanks off of a newer civic but i forget exactly what model civic. i recommend going through fastbrakes. the guy upgraded my pads to race compound when i told him they were going on a track car without charging me extra. i paid about 850 for the whole front kit and that included braided lines, pads, rotors, calipers, brackets and caliper spacers.
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thats a decent price, was it for all 4 corners?
kelsodeez
Active Member
no just for the fronts. i am tempted to get the two piston kit for the rear because i think its like 400 or something ridiculously cheap like that. wilwoods are great budget brakes.
werd... just trying to compare because i spent nearly a grand doing evo brakes on my grey car.
Sounds to me like you got the fuel issue figured out now.
That is a good price; I might have to call them up. Thanks!
Leave the rear stock. There is plenty of braking for the rear already; you don't want anymore.
