94civicturbo
Member
that sucks to hear man 
Brad's CRX Build
- Thread starter GlassHeadlights
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GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
So during down time, since thursday, I've been swapping my old Mini-Me into my dads EF 4 door. I converted it to MPFI then OBD1 all at once. Fired up first try tonight. So pleased, its been the most wiring I've ever done. Should be hitting VTEC tomorrow.
So pleased, its been the most wiring I've ever done. Should be hitting VTEC tomorrow.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Got it all done with no CELs but I have a timing issue. I followed the instructions for the MPFI swap and pinned in two wires for the CYP sensor. It ran smooth but no power and detonating. So I read if you get them mixed up they can retard the timing badly. I switched them even though I'm positive they were in the correct place and it runs better with full power but I got code 9, CYP. Any ideas?
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Got my Goodrige brake line kit.
94civicturbo
Member
dont have the car back to put it on yet do you? lol
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Fri morning, can't wait.
Got my first ticket last night. On my way to pick up my movie date to see Paranormal Activity at midnight, no one was around on the highway and I got caught doing 63 over highway speeds. $400 ticket and impounded for 7 days.
speaking from experience, it isnt worth it.. even if there appears to be nobody else around. just take it to the track. ive had countless run-ins with the police and some of the time i wasnt even doing anything.. i sound like a dad here or something but if you dont give them any reasons to give you a ticket, they cant.
That's a fact. Agree to all. I can tell you one thing, I took a little longer to learn than you seem to have - at 56yrs old I know now. I have had run-ins with law enforcement since my first ticket at age 13 for driving a mini-bike on the street in a residential area. I couldn't begin to tell you have many speeding tickets I've had over the years.
Been lucky there and have only been caught for a max of about 25mph over the limit - usually between 10-15 over the limit. I've been way past that many times.
Not any more.
I like to think of it this way: "Keep it between the lines".
And yes, I've also been pulled over many times for nothing, absolutely nothing. Nothing besides driving a hot rod that captures their attention "Just Because".
youre misunderstanding the point.
who is more likely to be pulled over?
person A doing 50 mph in a 50mph zone with everything working properly, signaling properly, etc?
or
person B driving the exact same car at 65-70mph in a 50mph zone, weaving traffic and neglecting to use signals?
you do the math. bullshit happens sometimes, but the majority of the time if youre obeying the law, things go a lot smoother.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Been a while.
I built a custom 2 1/4" straight pipe right off the header (2 1/4" collector aswell) with a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler. I noticed a hughe difference now that I have an I/H/E but snow came and I had to transfer the insurance to the Jeep.
So over the winter I hope to make the exhaust look better, fix the shift linkage, maybe some sort of wire tuck and possible rebuild the tired LS.
Theres a local guy selling a B18B which needs a rebuild for $150. Longblock including intake mani. I think I might get that, rebuild it and run it on OBD1 for that extra 10 horse. Plus I read the cams have a higher lift.
I'll hopefully keep this updated more.
I built a custom 2 1/4" straight pipe right off the header (2 1/4" collector aswell) with a Dynomax Super Turbo muffler. I noticed a hughe difference now that I have an I/H/E but snow came and I had to transfer the insurance to the Jeep.
So over the winter I hope to make the exhaust look better, fix the shift linkage, maybe some sort of wire tuck and possible rebuild the tired LS.
Theres a local guy selling a B18B which needs a rebuild for $150. Longblock including intake mani. I think I might get that, rebuild it and run it on OBD1 for that extra 10 horse.
Plus I read the cams have a higher lift.I'll hopefully keep this updated more.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Got a letter in the mail and it looks like they're gonna pull my lisence for that speeding ticket a while back. 2 month suspension.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Need some advice!
I'm hoping to improve my car quite a bit this winter. I had 4 solid months of aggressive back road driving, not saying I'm a professional driver but I think I know what the car needs now.
1) Stiffer suspension. On come corners I could scrape the mudflaps. Plus if there waqs a dip in the corner it would compress the suspension then I believe the geometry goes out of whack and the steering wheel tries to pull away from me (Bump steer?). Scary at times. I also believe I need to put the stock knuckles back on vs. the DA Inetbgra ones. I've bottomed out the upper control arms a couple times and I think the incorrect geometry is promoting bump steer. I realized I only got the stock spring rates when I got my Function & From Type 1's. I have a set of eBay lowering springs that I think are stiffer than the ones I have. I think its worth a try if they line up alright. Then I would put the stock knuckles back on aswell. Its nice to have the large brakes though.
2) Tires. I'm an idiot so tray drifting has taken chunks out of my tires and I did too many burn outs so once spring comes around I hope to make another Seattle trip which means a tire purchace too. The Kumho's were pretty garbage. They didn't even perform in the rain. I was possibly thinking of Falken Aziens. I won't be doing burouts and shit anymore because I don't want to loose my lisence again. I will auto x this season. It seems like the best route because its safe and I will learn lots. I'll be runnin 205/50/15 on my Drag DR-16's painted solid white.
3) Brakes. They were the most solid part of my car on these past 4 months. DA Inetgra booster/master and 4040 proportioning valve w/ DA brakes up front and stock Si rear discs in the back with stainless lines. But I overheated the fronts on a tight section of road this summer and they warped a bit. So some blank rotors and some sort of better pad? The rears are brand new rotors and pads, they seem great. When its time to do the front brakes I was thinking of using the stock Si knuckles and getting larger OEM rotors and shaving ITR calipers to fit (Need to research more).
3) Engine. I beat the shit out of my LS swap. I didn't care because it has so many miles and it was so cheap and it went fast. I can't really drive it anymore though. It burns too much oil and the distributor is being a huge pain and cutting out a lot. So theres a local guy selling a B18B longblock that needs a rebuild for $150 so I figured my car would be fun with that extra 12 horse plus my bolt-ons. I would run my chipped P28 ECU with a P75 map in it and purchace a good OBD1 LS dizzy to go with it. Then rebuild the motor but prepare it for a VTEC head down the road. ARP rod bolts, shotpeend rods, maybe higher compression pistions but keep the LS head for now. Even when I do go VTEC I wouldn't break 200 HP, probably more like a stock GSR power.
Anyway whose got pointers?
I'm hoping to improve my car quite a bit this winter. I had 4 solid months of aggressive back road driving, not saying I'm a professional driver but I think I know what the car needs now.
1) Stiffer suspension. On come corners I could scrape the mudflaps. Plus if there waqs a dip in the corner it would compress the suspension then I believe the geometry goes out of whack and the steering wheel tries to pull away from me (Bump steer?). Scary at times. I also believe I need to put the stock knuckles back on vs. the DA Inetbgra ones. I've bottomed out the upper control arms a couple times and I think the incorrect geometry is promoting bump steer. I realized I only got the stock spring rates when I got my Function & From Type 1's. I have a set of eBay lowering springs that I think are stiffer than the ones I have. I think its worth a try if they line up alright. Then I would put the stock knuckles back on aswell. Its nice to have the large brakes though.
2) Tires. I'm an idiot so tray drifting has taken chunks out of my tires and I did too many burn outs so once spring comes around I hope to make another Seattle trip which means a tire purchace too. The Kumho's were pretty garbage. They didn't even perform in the rain. I was possibly thinking of Falken Aziens. I won't be doing burouts and shit anymore because I don't want to loose my lisence again. I will auto x this season. It seems like the best route because its safe and I will learn lots. I'll be runnin 205/50/15 on my Drag DR-16's painted solid white.
3) Brakes. They were the most solid part of my car on these past 4 months. DA Inetgra booster/master and 4040 proportioning valve w/ DA brakes up front and stock Si rear discs in the back with stainless lines. But I overheated the fronts on a tight section of road this summer and they warped a bit. So some blank rotors and some sort of better pad? The rears are brand new rotors and pads, they seem great. When its time to do the front brakes I was thinking of using the stock Si knuckles and getting larger OEM rotors and shaving ITR calipers to fit (Need to research more).
3) Engine. I beat the shit out of my LS swap. I didn't care because it has so many miles and it was so cheap and it went fast. I can't really drive it anymore though. It burns too much oil and the distributor is being a huge pain and cutting out a lot. So theres a local guy selling a B18B longblock that needs a rebuild for $150 so I figured my car would be fun with that extra 12 horse plus my bolt-ons. I would run my chipped P28 ECU with a P75 map in it and purchace a good OBD1 LS dizzy to go with it. Then rebuild the motor but prepare it for a VTEC head down the road. ARP rod bolts, shotpeend rods, maybe higher compression pistions but keep the LS head for now. Even when I do go VTEC I wouldn't break 200 HP, probably more like a stock GSR power.
Anyway whose got pointers?
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Yeah I'll look around for a better suited tire.
Yes I'm slowing down. I have to pass the graduated lisencing program asap so once I get my lisence back I have to drive 100 % clean for 2 years until I get my full lisence.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Haha I don't know, I'm all over the page.
I was thinking of a JDM B16 or GSR swap because I still only have an LS trans then I wouldn't have to build a motor but $$$$.
And I don't know if I want an LS/VTEC build because of all the hassle.
Honestly I think a B16 swap would be key for me. High revver with enough power. Just fun. I can't make up my mind on a motor swap lol. It will be the last part of my car to tend to.
I was thinking of a JDM B16 or GSR swap because I still only have an LS trans then I wouldn't have to build a motor but $$$$.
And I don't know if I want an LS/VTEC build because of all the hassle.
Honestly I think a B16 swap would be key for me. High revver with enough power. Just fun. I can't make up my mind on a motor swap lol. It will be the last part of my car to tend to.
efhondakid
My name is Byron.
As far as tires my personal preference are the Yokohama AVS ES100s.
b16 would be a nice swap, its plenty of power to have a fun car. and to be honest, you dont want something that is fast if youve already had a ticket lol...
id see if you can get your hands on a gsr trans before you decide anything. its a happy medium. the ls is a turd.
id see if you can get your hands on a gsr trans before you decide anything. its a happy medium. the ls is a turd.
