91 Accord Progress

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nice color. used to have a silver 4th gen ex sedan w/ projectors headlights.
 
Damn that thing looks nice. I was considering white, but gray looks nice too. Maybe a couple shades darker and a bit glossier. Mines a 4 Door though. Wish it was a coupe.
 
how much did it cost for all the paint etc...?
 
how much did it cost for all the paint etc...?

Paint was a FREE BE! Compliments of my boss at my job.
all I paid for was the thinner.

I love this car. Considering I got it for 500, with a blown engine, did the work. showed it some love. and its been good to me so far. I'm still having a hard time finding a short in the wiring, and now my left rear blinker is acting like its shorting as well. But those are all issues to work out over time when I find them one by one.
 
not a bad job at all for your first time, but why choose a color that is pretty much the color of grey primer?
 
mistake. I was shooting for a darker color. But.. i got this.
 
^ bummer, but i like the color still. i have been considering doing the same thing you have done, looking to spend maybe a grand all together. that would be killer.

what was the whole process for the painting?
im talking every step by step.
 
I didnt take every last little step by step. I had a close idea how to do it and just knew what needed to be done. one thing is though, find a friend thats a painter. go in the booth with him one day. and watch him do a car, it'll help you so much more.

first your going to have to do the body work, align moving parts, fix dents patch wholes, shave what you want shaved. I sanded the whole body down with 220 sand paper. wash the car, let it dry and dont touch with your bare hands, you have oil on your skin no matter what. if you get that oil on that car and you spray, theres a good chance it wont stick.
I sprayed 2 coats of primer. Gray primer for a lighter color, red primer for a darker one.
After each coat I sprayed of the primer, i lightly hit it with 220 paper again. after sand down, took a wet rag, wiped it down, let it dry. Sprayed another coat.
The paint was basically the same way, spray, sand, clean, spray, sand, clean. you just have to be careful as well. like if your paint is shooting webs, then you need to thin your paint more. too much thinner and your paint runs, too little and it shoot webs (looks like spider webs)
the clear coat was fun because I kept messing with it. like putting too much flake in the first coat of clear. second coat, i didnt use a strainer and got trash thrown through it. the 3rd coat i did everything right on it. and got better results. (of course) Im no pro though. but these are just some of the things I've learned by watching and asking questions alot.
 
what do you mean by "Flake"?
like the sparkle chips in the paint that make it have a shiny color?
 
its like glitter, but alot finer, if you walk along the car you can see it shine with the sun or light. instead of being all over sparkly. .... that sounds so gay. but I like it.
 
haha, my bad. but you understood my question.

ok, so after you sand it down. ( im assuming you used a sanding machine where you just attach the pad.)then you wash it (Repeat many times) then spray your color, then sand, (repeat many times) then spray last time. then clear coat. do you sand the clear coat ever?
 
I think 220 is still too coarse. I'd use 400-800 grit and by hand. And the clear coat you polish right?
 
I think 220 is still too coarse. I'd use 400-800 grit and by hand. And the clear coat you polish right?


correct. 220 is too course. for sanding down and prepping for primer, I'd use the 220 and by machine. then by hand where the machine cant get. but between coats, finer and by hand.

I used 220 between my clear coat as well. and i really didnt have a problem. but as for how hard do you sand on it between coats? im talking liiiight. just enough to make it feel smooth with out eating at the paint.
 
Update.

So, I made a different thread about this, my little door thingy under the fuel gauge that tells you what door is open if your trunk is open. blah blah blah. Well before it would click on and off then maybe stay on while going down the road. and all my doors would be shut. It stopped doing that, now it doesnt even try to emerge on or anything... weird me out kinda...
 
Looks pretty good for an amateur paint job! :thumbsup:
 
So Sunday, I went to a junk yard in West Palm, Florida called U Pull and Pay. My buddies and I love the place because we can just walk in with our tools, and go through just about any thing we want to. Grade A place for getting those little USDM hard to find parts that no one really sells and at a very low cost.
Well I found some good parts and only spent about 50 dollars. I find a great gauge bezel for 13 dollars, in perfect condition. Freebie ghetto but nicely thought short shifter, someone cut their shifter in the middle then welded it back together alittle shorter than stock, instead of what most retards do by cutting just the top off and getting those annoying universal knobs. I got really lucky by scoring just the rear struts, but there were lowering springs for sure, with good KYB GR-2 struts. When I pulled them out I checked to see if the struts were worth the fun and they were still good. Paid 16.00 each plus a 3.00 core charge on each. :D I love them too, they took away all the bounce that the cut springs had when I recieved the car, and being the front actually has some dropped springs it levels well. All I have to do is buy some after market struts for the front and my suspension will be fine for the time being. Other things on the list, were some trunk springs being my dad has a 93 accord and his didnt come with any, so he stole one, only because he couldnt get the other off. Dirty bastard did it when the car was broken down. lol. also freebied a stereo plug being mine was cut, and whistled out with some misc bolts and stuff that I cant find to well, as well as a H badge for the rear. I'll be going back again soon when I get more money. Other than that, I had fun there, and I'm happier with the car now.
 
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