92 accord best swap ( f20a , f22a6 , or f22b dohc)

[drummersteve7]

do you know anything about accords, or F/H series engines?
or you going off what a friend said.
I revvd my accord past it limits and it ran just fine, until I hit 380k on it.
that is all!

You're an idiot. The point I made in my previous post is still completely applicable regardless of whether he swaps to a different engine or not. A different engine is going to have limits as well, and those limits shouldn't be exceeded unless the engine is properly rebuilt to do so...

 

[BrutalB83]

If you're going to restart a dead argument, then at least have something worthwhile to contribute, okay?

do you know anything about accords, or F/H series engines?
or you going off what a friend said.

No, I know ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about F/H-series engines. I mean, it's not like I've owned three Accords and a Prelude or anything like that. The truth is, I just love to spout off on things that I know jack shit about! Pretty cool, huh?

I revvd my accord past it limits and it ran just fine, until I hit 380k on it.
that is all!

Good for you, but that proves absolutely nothing. You clearly don't understand the concept of torque curves. What's the point of revving past the engine's rev limiter if the power output is no longer increasing? Or potentially even dropping? There is no point to it, none. AND, it becomes even MORE pointless when you throw in the added possible consequence of damaging your engine!

Just because you didn't blow up your Accord's engine by over-revving it doesn't mean that you actually went any faster because of it. If you had shifted at the proper points and kept maximum available torque throughout acceleration then you probably would been quicker that way.

The ONLY time that you should be revving higher then the factory limits is on the occasion that you've modified the engine's power curve via an after-market camshaft. At that point, you should also get a tune and probably add in a beefier valve-train just for peace of mind.

So once again, if you're going to resurrect a dead debate, then at least try and make it worth everyone's time, alright?

Glad we could agree on this...

 

[Ethan]

If you're going to bring back a dead thread, then at least have something worthwhile to contribute, ok?



No, I know ABSOLUTELY NOTHING about F/H-series engines. I mean, it's not like I've owned three Accords and a Prelude or anything like that. The truth is, I just love to spout off on things that I know jack shit about! Pretty cool, huh?



Good for you, but that proves absolutely nothing. You clearly don't understand the concept of torque curves. What's the point of revving past the engine's rev limiter if the engine's power output is no longer increasing? Or even dropping? There is no point to it. AND, it becomes even MORE pointless when you throw in the added possible consequence of damaging your engine.

The only time that you should be revving higher then the factory limits is on the occasion that you've modified the engine's power curve via an after-market camshaft. At that point, you should also get a tune and probably add in a beefier valve-train just for peace of mind.

Once again, if you're going to resurrect a dead thread, then at least try and make it worth everyone's time, alright?

WOOT WOOT!

and that is how you rip a new asshole people!

+rep

 

[BrutalB83]

and that is how you rip a new asshole people!

It's kinda my specialty...

 

[Ethan]

It's kinda my specialty...

and you do it so well... ^_^

lol

 

[BrutalB83]

If you thought this little interaction was good, you should see the PM exchange we had...

 

[Ethan]

If you thought this little interaction was good, you should see the PM exchange we had...

you should make a thread and post it.

 

[92AccordJDM]

do you know anything about accords, or F/H series engines?
or you going off what a friend said.
I revvd my accord past it limits and it ran just fine, until I hit 380k on it.
that is all!

damn you got pwned hes probabley one of the most reliable sources of info on this fourm so you just asked a really dumb question cause he explained it all in his reply "unless it was bulit to rev higher" not all motors are gonna deal with things the same way.

 

[92AccordJDM]

ok so i have to replace the tps on the f22b im not too sure if i could just change over the throttle bodies rather then going through the hassel of drilling into the screws cause i dont have the tools to do so.

 

[Ethan]

ok so i have to replace the tps on the f22b im not too sure if i could just change over the throttle bodies rather then going through the hassel of drilling into the screws cause i dont have the tools to do so.

If its the same TB sure. but honestly there is other ways then drilling. i used a bench grinder to grind the heads off..
then i took the tps off and took out the cut off rivets/bolts with vice grips.

Worked Great!

 

[92AccordJDM]

im actually just gonna swap over the whole intake mani and swap out the a1 injectors and put the 22b one in it so i shouldnt have to go through any of that cause i only have pretty much hand tools at the moment.

 

[92AccordJDM]

does anyone know if putting the 22a1 intake mani on the 22b would make it run worse or not?

 

[92AccordJDM]

ive read that if i swap the intake manifold i would lose hp but i would pick up some tq in return.

 

[Ethan]

i dont know. but i know there was something with the f22a6 that made it make more power than the f22a1. or at least i heard that before.

 

[92AccordJDM]

yeah ive read it in another fourm before but im not sure which manifold they used. i would change just the tb but they are differant so im not sure if i can.

 

[92AccordJDM]

hey its been a while since ive last posted i dont have much free time but the motor is ready to come out the mounts are loosened and everything but the damn axels wont come off i know i have to take the axel nut off which isnt going any where ive had to take this off on my last accord and that one was no problem but on my current accord nothings works so what im trying to do now is pull the motor out and leave the tranny in and then maybe have extra room to try and pull the axels out of the driveshaft then take the tranny out and way i should go about doing this?????

 

[K2e2vin]

Bigger impact wrench? If you have a large enough air compressor; borrow one of these:

I don't think there's enough room for the motor to come out without the transmission. You'd need enough room for the input shaft to come out of the torque converter or clutch. I guess maybe if you can tilt it enough it'll work?

 

[92AccordJDM]

yeah if i could get the axel nut off and it would be much easier but i have no air compressor im using a 18inch breaker bar and im trying to find a bar big enough to put over that and a person like twice my size to stand on it lmao. but thats the only thing i have cause ive very tight with money right now and i dont want to have to return the brakes i bought cause the rotors are bad both front and back same with the pads all thats 300 dollars but its something ill need so idk what ill do to get the nut off.

 

[fishguy]

I'm just a newbe looking for info. I've only been here for 30 minutes and I can see already this is going to be fun.

 

[D15Beater]

I always wanted to try a F20a SOHC setup with a A6 cam, intake manifold, and 4-2-1 header of some sorts. Never seen it done, although im sure it has been. Would make for a peppy engine, seeing how the F20a is a 2.0 and smaller displacement and a higher compression ratio than the 2.2. Could probally rev it a little higher bout like a B20, just with one camshaft.