All-Motor setup--Tell me what you think!!!

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

As for HP I'm looking to make 230whp+.
I want mid 11's in the 1/4mile in my '90 Crx DX
Also the motor is going to cost between 6-8,000 depending on how much me and my friends do.



You are going way overkill for 230 whp. you probably won't run 11s with only 230, keep this in in mind. I'd go with a more friendly 11:1 or 12:1 cr so you can at least run pump gas, and save some money. 6-8000 seems abit unreasonable. Here is what my shop is doing for me, keep in mind I am going to be running a b16a, not a b18c, and I am shooting for around 225.

B16a block
Bottom End
Closed deck sleeves (LA sleeves, mfg for AEBS) bored to 85mm
Wiseco 85mm 11:1cr pistons (might end up going to jeff at IB for pistons)
Crower Econobillet conrods
reciprocating assly balancing up to 13K rpms
complete assembly of bottom end
$2700

Top end
HP port and polish intake and exhaust
portmatched intake ports and ITR IM
HP 5 angle valve job
Skunk2 stage2 camshafts, valve springs and Ti retainers.
950 for machine work, 700 for cams+valvetrain, 200 for ITR mani
Add another 1500-2000 for a new clutch, hondata, tuning and any wiring crap for converting obd0 to obd1, and thats still only liike 6500 for the complete swap, and a TON of machine work.

Like I said, I'm shooting for 225, and I'll probably get there, using a b16a, and only 11:1 cr. So consider reducing your CR unless you plan on going WAYYYYY bigger than 230+. When you said 15:1 on a 2.0 gsr block, I was thinking, 400whp, or something huge like that. 15:1 just seems ridiculously high.
 
There's only been a couple of 9's run in All-Motor Eric,Leslie and Padilla are the only ones to do it as far as I know.


I have'nt seen any of these run in 9's!
 
go to Ericks website and they have the info 9.991, Leslie did it at the NHRA Finals last year in pomona 9.93 and Padilla did it four times at an event earlier this year at Moroso in florida NHRA with a best of 9.951 @ 131.63
.
 
I just said 230+ because that's the least amount I want but I don't need to run pump gas because it's only going to be driven at the track and I'd really like 300whp but don't want to get goals to high and then not reach them. 6-8,000 isn't bad for a full build, tuning and all the little extras. I have the head already from my B16 so it's just the block and build plus that's my guess on how much I'm still deciding how big to go and always like to save more money then I might need just in case. Plus if there extra money then thats great.
 
Shoot, if pump gas isn't a concern go with the Super Duper's and make 240+, or go with the Ultimates and press 280.

Looks like my pistons are running in the fastest street car in the world right now, running low 11's, so they work pretty well I would say.

The most WHP I have ever seen on my 84.5 MM 11.8:1 IB Spec piston is 231 WHP with Crower Stage 3 cams. Thats the record on those.

The record on Super Duper's is 25X Several times on 85 MM Super Dupers. And in 86 MM, 260-262 on a few (Super Dupers)

Now the Ultimates are going in a bunch of cars that had Super Dupers before, and there is already 1 guy running low 11's on them on the street car.

All of which are running stock Honda cranks, with stock length rods. Anyway, I have some cams that are my specs that I sell for like $550 too. Slightly bigger than Skunk Type 2's with duration similar to JUN 3's. they work well.

I think with all the modern parts my our disposal, all the numbers on the graphs can be increased by 5-10 at this time, using the same pistons. So if you go Ultimates, you can make alot. A huge amount.

Jeff
 
Not to nitpick but could you rephrase that just a tad bit??

Looks like my pistons are running in the fastest street car in the world right now, running low 11's, so they work pretty well I would say.


fastest street car in the 11's? ;)
 
Import Builders I want to run low 11's high 10's so if the ultimates can get me there then that's it how much would you charge for a fully built GSR Block and to do my head.
 
Honestly, no 1 part is going to get anyone anywhere in particular. The guys that run fast, nto only have good horsepower, but their car is setup good and they know how to drive. Like a guy who runs a prelude motor and gets like 1.58 60 foots. He doesn't have near the HP of many people around his time, but since he gets that good launch and is a good driver, he is fast.

record on Ultimates is 11.2

Its going in about 6 cars right now, that one is running.

E-mail me, and I can help you.
 
1 sentence of advice:

Buy whats proven to work, and don't buy what you "THINK" is going to work. When you buy something that has been proven to make XX power, then you know you have the capacity to make that power. So if you make less, you know its because of x , X and X parts that were different...etc..
 
Thanks for that advice Jeff. I can definately understand that why pay for something that might work when you can pay for something you know works. ;)
 
perhaps i am mistaken, and correct me if i'm wrong, but is it always best to go with a super light flywheel when drag racing only? this question spawns from rotary powered monesters. they run heavy fly wheels. very heavy. their intent is to not lose anything whatsoever between gears. admitantly it takes longer to get spinning, but there isn't any hesitation when shifting, the car will pull itself with little->no power loss. know what i mean? i was just under the impression super light flywheels were for like autoX style racing. that and the lighter the flywheel, the harder it is to have consistant launches. again, computer helps that tho.
 
Originally posted by nismogod@May 25 2004, 11:46 PM
perhaps i am mistaken, and correct me if i'm wrong, but is it always best to go with a super light flywheel when drag racing only?

Yeah, pretty much. Less mass to accelerate in the drivetrain = more power used to accelerate the car.
 
does that matter once everything is already spinning? and if so, wht do all the rotary nutz use such huge flywheels? sorry for offtopic.
 
Yes, it does matter even if everything is already spinning. You still have to work against inertia when you're accelerating or decelerating. Inertia is present whether the mass is moving or not.

I don't know about Mazda's Wankel setups too much, so I couldn't tell you how big or why they use massive flywheels.
 
okie dokie. inertia is the force explained by newton correct? somethings tendancy to either stay at rest or stay in motion. thats the reason i figured heavy flywheel already spining would be better. but alas, i apologize for my error.
 
Yes, inertia is one of Newton's laws. Something will stay in motion better if it has more inertia, but more inertia = harder to change that motion. It will be easier for you to maintain a certain engine speed, but it will be harder to speed up or slow down.
 
Thanks for all the info. Hope to start peicing this together over the next six months. :D
 
Back
Top