Fully built motor, wont run

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Ok heres the lowdown.

LS Vtec
b18b1 with SIRII head
ITR cams, ITR Intake mani
Chipped computer
All motor buildup, eagle rods, wiseco pistons, clevite bearings.

Machine shop built bottom end I assembeled head/cams, and all else.

Car has new plugs, t belt, water pump, cap, rotor etc.

Start car, runs like shit. Pull plug wire 1, car dies. Start up pull 2, no changes, pull wire 3, no changes, pull wire 4 car dies. Cyclinders 3 and 2 are not firing. The plugs are brand new compared to 1 and 4 which look normal (car running). Cel is on for the misfire. Also, ign is retarded all the way because it detonates if I bring it to 16 deg. (12.5:1 :D CAM2 time).

Also there was a small knocking that came from the bottom end that got quieter and quieter as the car ran for the 1st 3 mins. Its almost gone.

Total time car was running 4 minutes. Did compression test, 180-185 ish across all four. Have fuel, plugs smell like fuel (the 2 cyc that are dead) -- Smelled like gas but not flooded....

Took out dizzy, feel slight resistance 1/2 though its revolution. Does not spin freely all the way around, slight resistance and something is rubbing inside...

Is 185 ok? The car was only running for a total of 4 mins and I doubt the rings are seated, it was blowing a little smoke... That knocking noise is what scares me the most though...... :blink: It was going away though......

Any ideas besides the dist? Removed valve cover, everything looks mint, cam timing is dead on................ help
 
Guys the car runs... just not on all 4. Its not backfiring . THe firing order is right but Im skeptical about the dist.

Anyone ever hear of piston slap.. ?

My knocking is coming from the center of the block not the crank and I think its piston slap.... any ideas?
 
if its piston slap id take it back to the machine shop and proceed to say "what the fuck is this shit motherfuckers"piston slap is caused by play betweent he piston and the cylinders.....and or incorect boring of some sort somewhere int he bottom end...also if i had to guess on the no fire in 2-3 cyl. id def say its your dist.
 
Its odd, but whenever I see posts that say my car is running like ass and then I see chipped computer. weird. So what kind of "chip" is it. What ecu, injectors, etc. Also is your piston slap perhaps just improperly set valve lash?
 
Check the injectors, when i got my engine back from being built cylinder #1 wasnt firing, we checked just about everything, then we bought a spare injector to see if that was the problem and sure enough everything worked fine.
 
Forged pistons usually make considerably more noise than stock on cold startups, It'll die down as the car warms up as you stated.

That's natural since forged pistons have looser clearances.

They'll also burn a little oil too, so don't be surprised if you lose a little oil every once in a while.

EDIT: How did you check to see that the 2 cylinders weren't getting spark?
 
I checked spark by pulling the wire off, putting a known good plug on the end, and grounding it to the head.

The noise did start to go away. I got a new dizzy and am gonna install it right now. I will let you guys know the turnout.

Some guy on B20 said
Originally posted by SPOOKDILIOSO
:)cloud LOOK IT'S REAL SIMPLE EVERY BODY TELLING YOU DUM SHIT AND YOUR CAR IS GONNA STAY FUC UP.TAKE THE HEAD SEND IT TO A MACHINE SHOP AND THERE GONNA TELL YOU THAT YOU HAVE BENT VAULES.IT WONT TURN A FULL REV BECAUSE THE VALUES ARE BENT AND WON'T ALLOW YOU TO DO SO.GET THE HEAD DONE OVER AND YOUR GOOD TO GO. THE VALUES BENT BECAUSE TIMEING JUMP SO WHEN YOU PUT THE HEAD ON MAKE SURE EVERY THING IS LINE UP,SPIN THE MOTOR OVER TWICE BY HAND AND MAKE SURE YOU MARKS ARE ON POINT.:)cloud

angry1 ALL YOU FUCKS WHO DON'T KNOW SIMPLE MECHANIC WORK DON'T GIVE ADVISE. angry1


HAHAHAH
 

posol

Staff member
the computer is not the problem. it was my old p28 with a program i had on it. it worked for me.
the additonal chip i sent i didn't test-- but there was one in the ecu that was known-working. if you need a new chip dan, let me know, and i'll burn you a new one with more fuel or something if its not starting right. i didn't realize you were 12.5:1. the chip was made for 11.x:1

like nojoke said, forged pistons are loud. ignore that for now.
ignitors are known to go bad--- but i've never seen it where 2 will fire. its usually all or nothing.
 
Well.. turns out my brand new NGK wires were the problem!! Not the distributor =(

I put the old wires on and it is now firing on all 4 cyc. I still have a CEL, and vtec is not wired.. could that throw the CEL?

The car hesistates from 2-3500, and is smooth from 3500-4500. It seems to be running ok minus the hesistation. The knocking disappeared when the cyclinders came to life, and its still blowing some smoke. Total running time now, 30 minutes.

Any suggestions on the hesistation?

Thanks Brian about the computer, I think the computer is working fine.
 
wire vtec up and then run it. eliminate all things and then test it that way you know its not vtec not being wired or whatever. check to make sure you plugged all the plugs properly. just offering suggestions im not saying your a noob and didnt do something right it just happens sometimes people make simple mistakes.
 
hesitation could be from going from an area of a low to high amount of fuel in your fuel tables on the chip, or vice versa. high to low. With that setup you should go to a dyno and tune as soon as possible.
 
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