H22A 300Hp Building N/A

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personally i dont think 300 at the crank is asking a lot besides money for parts...

I know when i rebuilt a chevy 454 with a friend that we probably spent 10k...but that includes the blower...so probably around 6k to change rockers, valve springs, valves, head, intake, valves, cams, ignition, bored out the bottom end, replaced the crank, pistons and rods...so yeah...theres a lot...

I have never done it on a honda engine but id assume most of the stuff is the same.
 
big compression, increase displacement(stroker), sleeves, full head work, higher then pump octane, machined everything, GSR tranny(pm me and i can link the kit to you) and some good traction, you can dominate.

so in other words. Built head, built block, different tranny, stroked, race gas. talk to importbuilders. he's a total madman on this particular engine.
 
Originally posted by nismogod@Jun 27 2005, 11:00 PM
big compression, increase displacement(stroker), sleeves, full head work, higher then pump octane, machined everything, GSR tranny(pm me and i can link the kit to you) and some good traction, you can dominate.

so in other words. Built head, built block, different tranny, stroked, race gas. talk to importbuilders. he's a total madman on this particular engine.
[post=517188]Quoted post[/post]​

.read before you post .....gsr tranny not fit h22.......
 
If money is not an option. Dump the H series. Swap a K in. Then all the other parts people have mentioned. Definally cams and new springs/retainers. Althought it is not recomended their was a guy around the area running 13.5 to 1 compression ratio on an LS/VTEC. It can be done. It needs very tedious tunnig. It was super fast to. Pick up the new carbon fiber rims to!
 
come on man...he already has the H.....do you even read any of the posts.....he wants the H...jeez
 
Originally posted by formby@Jun 28 2005, 05:14 AM
come on man...he already has the H.....do you even read any of the posts.....he wants the H...jeez
[post=517200]Quoted post[/post]​



Thats right , allreday got it..so lets build the H

Ehm..i do not shit money but..i meen for the engine i could prob spend another 5-10k if i need to get the 300 at the crank..:)

post-11-1119963166.jpg
 
Crower makes some drag cams for teh H. http://www.crower.com/cat/import/honda/cams/h22.shtml
get sleeves, rods, and pistons and port it out. valvesprings, oversized valves,
5 angle valve job, fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator,intake manifold, AFC computer for Air fuel... intake, headers, ETC
try for something like 10.5:1 - 11.5:1 compression

that sounds powerful.

5,000-10,000 bucks for 100 more HP?!?!
Seems crazy. For 5,000 bucks you can problaby get 300 at the crank. Get hardened 1st gear and different gear kit too...
 
alright.....lets get started! first of all 300 hp at the crank is not a hard goal to reach. you are only looking to raise 100 hp. you can very easiley do that! having gone through my own many trials and tribulations witht he h22a4 inmy 99 lude, i have learned a thing or two. first of all is the fact that you will have to look harder for parts, as they are not as readily available as b, d, or k series parts, but dont worry, they are obtainable you just have to dig! now the h22 power plant is a great designed motor, however it has VERY thin sleeves!! you cannot bore the factory sleeves because of the way they are made. sooo.....you will need to sleeve the block. i reccommend darton they can hold more than you can throw at them. also raise the displacement up a bit, go with a bigger bore. i would suggest arias high. comp. pistons. they again will deliver great power and performance. and with you not spraying they will last you for a long time to come. use total seal rings with them. for rods i reccomend the crower all motor rods. they are forged and are specifically designed for all motor applications. for the crank i would go with a knife edged forged unit. or you can forgo all i have stated above and buy a crower stroker kit (yes they do make on for the h22) but with boreing out the chambers you will almost have an equal bore/stroke length anyway. now for the head i would go with a full race port and plish and 5 agle valve job. go with either crower or comp. cams full race set ups. i would also use over size dished valves, crower dual springs and titanium retainers. to bring the block and head together id use a spoon head gasket. spoon's products are mostly designed for all motor applications more than forced induction. their all motor head gasket will seal the motor beautifully, handle all thetorture you can throw at it, all while raising the total compression a little more. in the whole build up use only, of course, arp bolts/studs. now for EMS id go witht he AEM stand alone plug and play EMS. reffer to part no. 30-1060. it has so many pluses above hondata, mugen, spoon, etc. its not even funny. also replace the h22's stock automatic timing belt adjuster with a manual unit from an h23. you canjust bolot one right on. if you dont you will be quite sorry later i promise! finish the job off with an act lightened flywheel, act clutch, driveshaft shop axles, and you will be WELL over the 300 hp mark! as well as gaining about 2000 more rpms safely! good luck!
 
oh yeah for fuel go the the walbro 255 lph, in -tank unit, rc engineering injectors,aem fuel rail and pressure regulator will aid in tuning. id also go with a msd digital sport compact ignition, msd dist. cap and blaster ss coil and msd 8.5mm wires. the factory tranny will be fine but get an lsd! good luck on the build man. any further questions just email me!
 
Originally posted by ludeintentions99@Jun 28 2005, 07:29 PM
oh yeah for fuel go the the walbro 255 lph, in -tank unit, rc engineering injectors,aem fuel rail and pressure regulator will aid in tuning. id also go with a msd digital sport compact ignition, msd dist. cap and blaster ss coil and msd 8.5mm wires. the factory tranny will be fine but get an lsd! good luck on the build man. any further questions just email me!
[post=517446]Quoted post[/post]​



Thanks for the great answers!! :worthy:

Now i really got some more on my mind..:) thanks m8

As u say...i have to dig deeper in the swamp of H parts

10k may have been alittle "over" my head but..something between 5-10 i would guess..
 
Originally posted by formby+Jun 27 2005, 11:09 PM-->
@Jun 27 2005, 11:00 PM
big compression, increase displacement(stroker), sleeves, full head work, higher then pump octane, machined everything, GSR tranny(pm me and i can link the kit to you) and some good traction, you can dominate.

so in other words.  Built head, built block, different tranny, stroked, race gas.  talk to importbuilders. he's a total madman on this particular engine.
[post=517188]Quoted post[/post]​

.read before you post .....gsr tranny not fit h22.......
[post=517195]Quoted post[/post]​


dont think so huh? lol, check around a little before you question me.

http://www.quartersportsdrag.com/H2B.htm
 
[foot in mouth]actually i did search around before posting that.....lol...i stand corrected [foot in mouth]


1k price tag.....is it worth it?
 
When they add BB to that list...then i will be happy.
 
Originally posted by abdelsol@Jun 28 2005, 07:46 PM
Another source would be Endyn

They have some very good products and services.

I had them build my motor and highly recommend them.
[post=517660]Quoted post[/post]​

:withstupid:
 
Originally posted by formby@Jun 28 2005, 06:07 PM
[foot in mouth]actually i did search around before posting that.....lol...i stand corrected [foot in mouth]


1k price tag.....is it worth it?
[post=517666]Quoted post[/post]​


I would imagine so, have you ever shifted a prelude/accord? Their cable shift linkage sucks. Most of the complaints I have seen with friends that drive preludes are regarding weight (too heavy) and the sucky tranny. 1k is a steal to be able to fix that problem. Just buy the kit, a ctr tranny, and you are golden. As for Endyn, I've heard bad and good, lately, more bad than good.
 
Originally posted by MikeBergy@Jun 29 2005, 04:07 AM
As for Endyn, I've heard bad and good, lately, more bad than good.
[post=517912]Quoted post[/post]​


I kinda feel that way about everyone lately, from golden eagle, to import builders, to hytech, and back to Endyn. :sigh: :(

The internet just gives everyone the voice to say whatever the fuck they want at any given time without thought to who reads it or what the outcome will be.... I guess you just can't please all of the people, all of the time.....

Wait till Endyn's supercharger comes out and gets publicity. Holy Shit, I can't wait. When I'm putting down well over 350 WHEEL hp on a blower, people will start being like "Endyn? Haven't I heard of them before?"

cLiCkY....
 
From Endyn:
Q: Why a supercharger? Don't turbochargers make more power?
Many people wonder about this. From a engineering point of view, turbos make a lot of sense. They make use of otherwise wasted heat and energy that normally goes out of the exhaust pipe. Theoretically that are more efficient than SC. T.O.O. like and have worked with turbos before (lot of experience in CART), but after much thought he feels sc will do the job right - that is, 11 second time slips with full weight, on pump gas, with cat intact. Full street legal trim basically. Main reason he didn't use turbo was because the stress it adds to an engine that was not designed for turbo. Factory turbo car has a thoughtful cooling system, and the cylinder head and engine block has the necessary features for prolong exposures to the intense heat present in turbocharged engines - such as stainless exhaust valves, different valve seat material, proper cooling around the exhaust ports...


Sounds like a bunch of hogwash to me, efforts to sell a product that hasn't even been released yet. I want to know how they can say that a turbo is more harmful to an engine than a SC. At the same power levels, the engine is going to see the same thermo effects regardless of the induction system. Shady salesmen. sorry for the rant.
 
you are correct blanco. the intake air on a turbo has the temp increase due to heat xfer from the exhaust air on the turbo. hence why an IC is used. the temp increase on a SC (air intake temp) is due to friction ultimately.
 
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