Mac's 94 DB8 project thread AKA: Project Aeris.. ITR stuff, body work.. ect

[mac_24_seven]

That burn netted me another 8 HP and 5 lbs of torque!

I burnt it on the header while I was looseining one of the bolts on the power steering bracket. I only had, literally, like a minute to do it....I could'nt stop..

And I didn't have time for pain Thats some true ninJa stuff there man

 

[Andrew]

No... I'm going to have 2 dirty inlets (pcv, valve cover) and one outlet.

My tube is about 3" from the bottom, so I've got plenty of room for the air to go out.

This is modeled after ENDYN's catch can.. I wish I could find the diagram LArry Widmer made on how it works, but I havnt been able to.

Thats cool and all, I just don't really see why it needs the pickup tube. maybe to avoid the oiley gases to flow directly from the inlets up to the outlet?
I'd like to see that diagram of Endyne. I trust you did good research on it, I'd just like to see it.

 

[mac_24_seven]

Nononono n00bie.. It's not a picup tube.. It's a BAFFLE.

In addition to the oily air being filtered by whatever I'm gonna use to filter it, it's has to travel around and up the tube... It keeps it from going straight into the catch can into the Intake manifold.

Thats what I've been looking for. You can see the baffled design and how it works. Though theirs is still better than mine, you get the idea.....

Though (idea popped into head) I could really duplicate it and truely baffle the tube by cutting it into 4 pieces, punching out 3/4" slugs and drilling a 3/8 hole in them, THEN inserting the plugs into the pipe and welding them in. Thus, the air would have to make its way through 3 little holes, further filtering it while minimizing restriction.

Hmmmmmmnnnnnnnnnnn.......Perhaps I will do this today. Lemme go and see what I can do

**Edit** Yep, I'll be able to do it. I got my plugs and had them tacked together so I can drill them all at once in the drill press. First break is coming up here in a little bit and I should be able to drill out the holes AND measure/cut the pipe.
I'll have it all welded together shortly afterwards You guys enj0y this and take note.. It's a rare thing when I actually get an idea and it works.

 

[hazzardboy95]

If it werks it werks!!!

 

[eg6sir]

If it werks it werks!!!

its works not werks

 

[hazzardboy95]

Your going to point out my spelling, come on. I just cant win.

 

[klyph]

I think it would work better like this

That way the tube in the can doesn't suck up oil when the oil reaches the level of the bottom of the tube.

 

[mac_24_seven]

I havn't installed the drain yet.. ANd I'm debating on if I'm gonna have it drain back into the engine or not.

 

[Andrew]

Yeah, what Cliff mentioned is what I was saying:

So is that going to be your inlet for the two lines, run I guess with a Tee in the line? (PCV and Valve Cover)
Basically, 1 dirty IN(VC/PCV "tee'ed" together) and 2 clean OUT(IM)??

Don't tell me you have it backwards(2 on side for Dirty IN, and 1 on top for clean out).. unless you've read something on Team-Integra making you plan on sucking up oil from the bottom of the can?
.

That way doesnt make any sense to me. But w/e. If Endyne does it, it must be ok, but I would route mine like klyph and I mentioned.

 

[mac_24_seven]

Your going to point out my spelling, come on. I just cant win.

It's a'ite mang. Andrew gets me on my spelling all the time. Or actually, just my typing/proof reading ]


Anyway... I don't understand what the problem is? The tube IS NOT for a pick up or anything, it's acting as a baffle so the air just doesn't go right in and right out.. It's gotta travel a little ways.

Also, I don't understand why I can't have 2 lines in and 1 line out?
Take a look at this... The above picture isn't from ENDYN, my bad.. But THIS ONE is (it even says so on the top )

They have 1 line out to the manifold and one line in and that line is coming from the crank case... I'll have that AND one from the valve cover And from the many threads I"ve read on Team_integra.. This is a highly debated topic, on if you should have a line running from your valve cover to the catch can.

Again, I don't see the problem with my setup You guys just hate me (runs away crying)

 

[klyph]

O, you didnt show the drain line in your sketch. It will be fine that way.

 

[Andrew]

The valve cover should go to a vented can. All by itself, 1 or two lines(depending on how many VC vents you have).

The crank case has 1 line factory(black box), and 1 line they added the Prelude nipple to. (the "Passenger Side Crankcase Adapter" in your pic) going to a non-vented can.

Thats pretty much all I know about it. I don't know'havent heard anything about a tube going down into it, but w/e. it all works.
Theres so many ways to connect it, it probably doesnt even matter. I'm just going by what I've seen in Endyne's engine dyno pics.

Original page

 

[hazzardboy95]

That i/m is huge, and carbon fiber. WOW.

 

[mac_24_seven]

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

My catch can is 99% complete. I need to drill one more fitting in the bottom for a drain and I'm good to go =)

In the meantime, I bought some gasket maker and sealed the hose barbs so they won't leak. Here are a couple of pictarZ.

Enj0y!

 

[Andrew]

 

[mac_24_seven]

DIY: Custom Catch Can install

Tools needed:
Your custom catch can
An assortment of hose barbs
several feet of hose
pliers
3/8 Brass hose barb, male on both end.

***Note: You don't have to go in this order.. It's just how I did it.

Step 1: Open da hood

Step 2: Remove your strut bar/Intake piping. Pretty simple.

Step 3: Remove the PCV valve so you can remove the hose connecting it to the IM. Took me a good 20 mins to get it. Hardest part of the whole damn thing. It's the lil brown things near the bottom that is sticking up and has the hose connected to it.

Step 4: Connect the hose running from the IM to the hose thats going to be running to the catch can, via the brass hose barb. Leave the hose long so you can cut it to the correct length later on. Also, add hose from the PCV valve so it will run to the catch can.

Step 5: Move out from the hood and get your can.

Step 6: Stuff the can with your filter material... In this case, panty hose I think Eli's imagining him wearing them. So you know, they are NEW.

Step 7: Make sure they are breatheable......... No comment...

Step 8: Install the can where you want it and cut the hose to length. Using the clear hose, as I did, I found out some scissors are the best way to cut it.

Step 9: Install the can and hook up your hoses! This is the simplest catch can design.. Simply a hose running from the PCV to the can, then one running OUT of the can into the IM.

Danger!!!! Where I was going to originally mount my can, I neded to remove some hoses from the charcoal canister.. Unfortunately, the nipples on it break pretty easily =(

I simply put a screw in the hose and the broken nipple and smeared some gasket maker around it. Good as new =)


And there you have it. My installed catch can. Notice I ditched my previous can, since this one was much more compact and will function the same.

 

[mac_24_seven]

DIY: City lights

Tools needed:
File
(2) 194 sockets and bulbs
Extra wire
Connectors/black tape

** Note** I used these in replacement of my high beams. I had a bulb out and was too cheap to buy another high beam bulb, so instead of drilling a hole I just replaced the highbeams with the 194 socket/bulb.

Step 1: Pop your hood and ready yourself to being one step closer to ultimate JDM

Step 2: Remove your high beam bulb and get your socket/file and file it down. The socket has lil ears on it so when you turn it, it locks into place. Obviously the high beams are different, so you can't do that. BUT, you CAN file the ears down so when you stick the socket in the housing, it fits snug. After you've done this, get ready for some wiring.

Step 3: Remove your turn signals/bulb sockets. It's just one screw really easy.

Step 4: Extend the wires/wire the plug into the turn signals. Extend the wire from the new 194 sockets. Then wire the POSITIVE wire coming from the 194 socket to the GREEN/BLACK wire coming from the194 turn signal. Obviously, wire the negative to the black wire (ground). I used the lil thingy's (don't know the name) to put all 3 wires in, then crimp them together.


***Warning*** Don't do what I did. See anything wrong with the below picture?

When I extended the wire, I was using terminals. I used 2 female terminals instead of a male/female What a n00b.

Step 5: Test to see if everything is wires correctly (turn on ligths/turn signals) run your new socket to the headlight housing and stick it in there. Re-install the sockets into your turn signals and enjoy your new city lights.
A pic of how thw wiring should end up.

Finished product.

 

[mac_24_seven]

And I havn't updated in a while.. so here's what happening.


I"ve bought a new house and have moved in (still unpacking). And my GT3s will be here Saturday (unless fedez tracking is lieing to me)
I bought a skunk 2 front camber and a rear camber kit, which will be going on this weekend.

A new DIY for them will be coming.

Check the link in my sig to the mainproject thread on Honda-Tech.

 

[mac_24_seven]

Finally... It's time!!!

Yess...

Yessssss... Yesss.....

OHhh yeahhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

Look at those white legs!!

I'm a smartE white boy.. I learned from my 6 hour wheel swapping fiasco: Always check the tires to make sure which direction they rotate!!!

A lil tip to keep from scratching your wheels.. Wrap tape around the socket.

All done!!

Now for the pics... I tried to be artsy in some of em.. But I suck =(

I'll take a couple for comparison at lunch today in my normal lil spot =)

You like?

 

[Andrew]

Looks dope mang

xInfinity