My 00 EK

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After a full cleaning.

Nice car dude, and as far as the wheels go, do what makes you happy, you are the one thats going to drive it, not everyone else or their opinion...
I like the wheels! The only thing i can say is that car needs more to really complete the look. Any close ups of the powdercoating?
So I'm getting into another mini-me swap, with a y8 head. I have the ecu, my only real question is this: I've already swapped intake manifolds, but because of the difference in the IACV plug, I'm using the y7 TB with a y8 rotor. I've checked writeups, and people re-pin plugs which I'm not against doing, but would leaving the tb/iacv setup the way it is, cause it to run below it's potential, or anything else? I'm not sure what the difference in the TB's themselves are other than the IACV location, but it'll be a while before I can get my hands on a couple loose plugs to repin them to work with the y8 IACV. and I just want to verify that I am to match the timing belt and head gasket to the head.
eaton is not very popular in the honda scene.the only thing i can offer is ferrea...
their stuff is all over place and ive never heard of any issues.
dont know about eaton. but i have skunk2 valvetrain in my car, been there for years. first with jrsc, then with turbo. no problems.
Alright. I sent the head out to a machine shop that my shop uses for all of their heads, to have it checked out and I got a phone call back asking if the thing was run over by a MAC truck. decking out .012, most of the valves warped, probably from overheating, so I told them to just rebuild the entire head and when I asked what parts they use for the guides, they told me Eaton. I did a little more research and found they make twin screws for Ford, but I wasn't sure still what good they were for a Honda. Luckily, this is the only money I have invested in the head.
Got my head back. everything went smoothly. Head was supposedly "milled to be true" prior to getting it, so whatever that was +.008. Anyway it runs great the way it is, more responsive, just debating on the ecu before I get vtec wired up.

p2p - no knock sensor, emissions fail
p28 - no obd2 connection, emissions fail

Ideally I'd like to go with a p28, so that I can have it tuned. I know there's not much going on with it, but who doesn't want their DD to run as well as it can?

Just not sure what everyone else does. Maybe go with the p28 and just run the p2e come emissions time? I mean I have my state inspection and emission license but I'm trying to stay as legitimate as possible come emission time.

A couple random pictures for no reason.



Also, off the top of anyone's head, can anyone identify this as obd2a or obd2b?


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So I'll be installing the Skunk2 adjustable upper control arms this week, and new outter tie rods, with all new Energy Suspension bushings. I'll also be swapping out my spring for a set of Eibach Pro Line springs that I picked up. I'll have pictures when the time comes.

In the meantime,



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Thanks, I realized that it is indeed an obd2b-a harness, not obd2-1, so ill be running the obd2a p2p once I pick up a knock sensor and some other misc plugs.

Scored a CR-V cluster today, with my luck it's also an auto cluster but its a nice upgrade IMO

Also scored my obd2b plugs so that ill have plenty of wires/easier to repin them.