my b18c build

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vtecsir1

Senior Member
Roll bar is done. Props to my buddy Tom for spending the day on the bars and making sure im safe.





Parts left to aquire:

I won some rc injectors today 310cc on ebay for a great price that are in great condition.
fpr probably just get a b an m and do the endyne fuel pressure relief mod.
need a new axel
bought a new intermediate shaft since when i pulled the motor i saw how much play the bearing had
http://streetimports.com/product_details.asp?id=711 120 shipped compared to like 300 from honda.

never mind street imports refunded me which was cool due to these being on back order until nov damnit.

need a new driver side tie rod
need skunk replacement ball joints for front camber adjustments

then i should be good to go!
 
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vtecsir1

Senior Member
bumping my own thread is lame

but atleast i bring pics

skunk2 pro gears, these are light as fuk!
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vtecsir1

Senior Member
come on people i have one fan. i know other people have comments or suggestions
 

invisibledemon

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Moderator
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theres no comments because you are doing everything great.
no noob mistakes, nor anything to make fun of.

a successful build thread is the one with less posts unless there are questions being asked. but, you are explaining everything and arent asking any questions.

great build.
 

vtecsir1

Senior Member
yeah i didnt think of it like that.

well heres some new shit

woot rc injectors off ebay 110 shipped...they look to be in awesome condition.
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3 inch 16ga ss, im cutting my apexi tip off because i never liked it and making a turn down style tip. with the the other half i think i will make an intake arm to my comptech filter, the ss really doesnt way that much at all.
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INJEN78

HS LEGEND
nice build..everything looks real clean.well organized..only thing im seeing that i dont particularly like is how the kick down posts on the back of the cage go down and weld to that cross bar..i woulda welded them right to the shock tower..then put the cross vrace..if by some chance you do end up needing that cage..im guessing it will flex in that area
 

vtecsir1

Senior Member
ha ha thanks ....well i have seen many different ways to mount the bars and the material isnt very thick in the areas around the shock tower so we thought they would be stronger where they are at. i hope i dont hvae to test out the roll bar ever but its nice to know it will protect me better than nothing i guess.

just stopped by my dads because i shipped the p2r gasket there by accident:

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vtecsir1

Senior Member
Cam install
I used lots of assembly lube
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I have them bolted down now I just need to set everything up top dead center then install the timing belt.
Im running into the rc injector problem it seems most people do, im using stock im seals and the injector doesnt fully go all the way down. you can see the gap where the spacers are. I think I should either leave them the way they are and add extra spacers so the fuel rail can be bolted down or dremel the oem injector seals so the injectors can seat deeper.
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What do you guys think I shoud do with the injector situation?
Thanks.
 

invisibledemon

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Moderator
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i think most people dremel the actual fuel rail, or something, maybe try different size seal, i wouldnt dremel the seals though, might not get a seal afterwards.
 

vtecsir1

Senior Member
fuel rail fits fine, the oem seals that fit in the intake manifold dont let them seat all the way down. im just going to bore them or cut them down some.
 

vtecsir1

Senior Member
Well skip ahead a lot of work and here is my dyno.

Few issues first off i just had my car aligned and it was driving straight but for some reason was pulling wierd on the dyno. First run was 10whp less, they then restrapped the car from different points and picked up the increase so who knows what was going on there.
car is burning oil, compression was 250 psi give or take a little across the board.
Here is the chart


Im dissapointed, I also noticed the car had too much oil in it as well which was my fault but I doubt half a quart or a quart at the most would make the car smoke like it was. I have since put the oil at the right level. The car drives well and pulls hard it just smokes and it appears the pro 1s wanted more compression than my motor has which doesnt seem right. I have a gsr block, usdm itr pistons, flat face valves and a gsr head. That should put me around the right compression based on the comp calculators I have used.
Cams were set at the quick settings from Skunk2 +3 int +4 exh
Thoughts?
 

INJEN78

HS LEGEND
you didnt break the motor in correctly.the rings didnt seat right so now its burning..pull the pistons,rering,rehone,rebearing and try again
 

vtecsir1

Senior Member
i didnt pull the rings at all, the motor was rebuilt not too long ago before i got the block from a friend. i assume the oil rings are bad but they werent when the block was in my buddies car. I replaced the bearings because one had minor gauling but other than that the block was used.
 

vtecsir1

Senior Member
well i will be attempting a last ditch effort, im trying to be ready for roebling roads dark side de event nov 7-8 so im pulling it a part fri day and replacing the rings! holy shit im so sick of this build.

axel issues and now this but oh well lesson learned replace rings when replacing everything else just in case. i will try to take some more pics when i pull it apart. im debating honing the walls depending on the cross hatching, it was good before i put everything together so we will see if its still good.

i know omniman did his 200 whp build and didnt hone on a 15 yr old block so honing is still up in the air depending on the walls.
 

invisibledemon

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Moderator
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before you tear all the way into it, you need to check any other possible problems it could be.
you need to make sure that the valve seals are correct, do a compression test on all of the cylinders, that would be one solid way to know for sure if the rings are bad.
look around the net, theres a way to use oil in the cylinders to check if the rings are bad. i believe you do a regular compression test, then add a bit of oil into the cylinder and repeat the compression test, and see if that changed it.
i cant remember exactly but if you ask around somebody should be able to give you the exact instructions, ask some techs in your area.
that way you can know of the piston rings are actually bad before you rip in there.

but check everything else. see if you cant find some kind of oil pressure gauge to make sure you are getting proper pressure.

check the valve guides, and ensure that everything in the head is seated correctly. you need to check all the small easy problems before you jump to the hard ones.
 
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