My new 2010 Subaru WRX

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Asking now.

And btw, I figured out why the welds were so messy last night -- it's because I needed to turn the feed speed up a lot higher.
What kind of welding are you doing? I have a Hobart MIG and the biggest problem I've encountered thus far is ambient light. With an autodarken helmet set to 9, the lowest darkening setting it's hard to see where the bead is going. Setup a couple of 1000w quartz lights on a bar - haven't used it yet, but think it will help a lot.
 
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Wrapped the downpipe last night. This lava wrap, or 'Titanium' as DEI calls it, isn't the easiest to work with. It's pretty slick and doesn't like to stay put. And getting a tie on at the bell mouth was freaking impossible. I wrapped from the cat up to the top then doubled over the cast bell mouth portion and clamped with 2 ties just below the cast part. Came out pretty well. I ended up using an entire 2"x50' roll sans about 8" of it. I could have definitely been more conservative with it, but oh well. It's nice and tight.

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shitty fluxcore. doug likes to call it a birdshit welder.

Yeah, the more reading I do the more I realize that you need to make a huge puddle with flux core for it to work properly, and heat is controlled with wire feed, not the voltage.

And the .030 size wire is more akin to a .003 wire with a MIG.


I'm going to try those plates again tonight and then see how badly I can "fix" the vise again now that I know what I'm doing.
 
Being a veteran of industrail stick welding in the past, and gas, brazing and little TIG - learning the "Feed Rate" was the challenge with MIG. Not sure, but it may have been easier to learn MIG from the beginning. It was a real struggle at first, going much better now - still haven't tested the new quartz work lights.
 
I typically weld on a borrowed TIG welder, but getting gas around here is going to be difficult enough for me to say screw it.
 
Sorry to change the subject, but what kind of mileage do you get?

I can hit 23 on the highway but my average is more like 17. The 780cc injectors like to dump fuel when I get into it.
 
can i use dirt? LOL.

ask him what media i need? the interior surfaces of the piston bore CANNOT be damaged. and those parts dont need to be blasted at all. ask him what would work best for getting the paint off of aluminum but wont damage it or score it in any way. sand may bee too harsh i think.

Get a jug of aluminum oxide.
I use aluminum oxide on most everything. To protect the inside of the bore, get some closet dowel or something that fits the bore, wrap with electrical or duct tape till if fits snug inside and rock on with the sandblasting.
 
Defi Boost gauge installed and hooked up to power for functionality. Used fuse taps for a clean and 100% removable setup.

Don't mind the 25+ psi reading. It's just because the sensor isn't hooked up.
 
Just finished 12 hours of work on the car.

Installed:

Group N motor mounts
Group N transmission mount
Whiteline transmission cross member bushings
Whiteline steering rack bushings
Cobb wrapped downpipe
PTP "lave' turbo blanket
Cobb heat sheild
Spearco TMIC
Turbo smart Kompact BPV

Then I loaded up the COBB Access Port and flashed a stage 2 map. Runs strong. Minus the boost leak that I now have to find. It whistles around the time that I'm in boost when I get on it. Probably a loose coupler or something.
 
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Can of starter fluid on all the piping at idle is the easiest way to find your leak. Soapy water just makes a mess.
 
Not sure how that will help. It only leaks in boost.
 
Oh, never mind them.

Guess you'll have to do the "Plug your charge piping and hook it up to an air compressor" deal.
 
We ran into what was almost a major issue.

When re-installing the steering rack bolts, one bolt would go back in. Upon inspection, the first thread or two was crossed. We tried to put a tap through it but a tap just wouldn't NOT bit in properly. We literally spent an hour or two trying everything to clean up these threads. Finally I said fuck it and tried to get the bolt started straight, luckily I was about to. Snugged it down as tight as I dared for fear of ripping out all of the remaining threads.

Thought I was going to have to replace the whole front subframe after that :(
 
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