My new 2010 Subaru WRX

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awww those are so cute. It's like little mini brakes.
 
And havin 2 bleeder screws to deal with really sucks.
 
updated first post with:

Current Mod List

Engine/Drivetrain:
COBB catted downpipe Wrapped in DEI titanium heat wrap
COBB AccessPort "stage 2" ECU flash
Spearco Top Mount Intercooler
TurboSmart Kompact BPV
PTP "Lava" turbo blanket
COBB turbo heatsheild
Kartboy Short Shifter w/ poly shifter bushings
Whiteline KDT901 "positive shift kit" poly crossmember bushings
GroupN Engine Mounts
GroupN Transmission Mount

Wheels/Tires:
17x9" +44 Work Emotion CR-Kai (summer)
245/40/17 Continental ExtremeContact DW (summer)
15x7" Team Dynamics Pro Rally 1 (winter)
215/65/15 General Altimax Arctic (winter)

Suspension/Steering/Brakes:
*placeholder for summer suspension*
Koni Sport "yellows" with King Lift Springs (winter)
Whiteline 22mm Rear sway bar
RalliTek HD endlinks
Whiteline KDT905 Rear Differential bushings (front)
Whiteline KDT906 Rear Differential bushings (rear)
Whiteline KDT907 Rear Subframe bushings
Whiteline KSR207 Steering Rack bushings
STi solid steering linkage
FHI 4-pot front calipers, repainted and rebuilt
FHI 2-pot rear calipers, repainted and rebuilt
KNS mounting brackets for rear 2-pots
StopTech stainless braided brake lines
StopTech Street Performance brake pads
GrimmSpeed Brake Master Cylinder Brace

Interior/Exterior:
30% tint
Rally Armor Urethane mudflaps
SMY Clustermaker gauge pods
Defi Red Racer boost gauge
WC Lathewerks Copolymer shift knob w/ brass insert
 
well looks like im starting on summer suspension revamp early. i just purchased a set of 2011 WRX front axles (longer) in preparation.

Plans:

Feal 441 Coilovers or GTWorx RCE/Bilstein spring/strut combo
2011+ STi front aluminum control arms (the reason i need the longer axles, these control arms will increase my track width to that of the widebody, another 1-1.5" or so total. they also have a rubber isolated spherical bushing)
Whiteline Roll Center Adjust kit, extended ball joints and

pic of the 2011+ STi control arm

modp_1011_04_o+2011_subaru_impreza_wrx_sti+front_control_arm.jpg


old bushing vs new bushing
offset.jpg
 
to answer the heat wrap Q...
the idea here is 2-fold
1- it keeps the heat out of the engine bay
2- it keeps the heat in the pipes, and since hot air is actually lighter and less dense, it is easier to move out the exhaust and/or spool the turbo therefore 'increasing' power.

as long as your manifold metal can withstand the highest of egt temps, you're fine.
otherwise, you end up with ssautofail style cracks/etc in the manis.
 
noticed the PS fluid getting low. topped it off, and it was low again within a week or two. so i did some digging.

found this:

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Can't really tell exactly where it's leaking from. Either the top seal where the pinion shaft goes, the paper gasket between the top half of the pinion housing and the rack, or from one of the hard line fittings. I can't really tell as everything has a nice coating of ATF/PS fluid.

some research shows this is a semi-common issue. the pinion valve assembly seems to be the culprit.

i can replace the whole thing for ~$300, or buy the rebuild kit and some other seals for ~$40. initially i was going to just rebuild it, but it looks to involve using a press to get it apart and i just dont want to deal with that. so i think im just going to replace the whole thing, and rebuild the old one to keep as a spare, or try to sell it, but i dont think many people are looking for these lol.
 
initially i was going to just rebuild it, but it looks to involve using a press to get it apart and i just dont want to deal with that. so i think im just going to replace the whole thing, and rebuild the old one to keep as a spare, or try to sell it, but i dont think many people are looking for these lol.

You mean you don't want to come over to my house to use your press to rebuild it.
 
Summer's here, and so is my new suspension.

Feal 441 coilovers
2011+ STi aluminum front control arms
Cusco H-brace
Whiteline Roll center kit (extended ball joints and tie rods)

And to fix the steering rack.

New OEM pinion valve assembly.
New forester XT inner tie rods (longer to support wider LCAs)
Other assoc washers/seals/clamps/fluids

;)


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Ill get more pics later. Doing all of this in one shot next week. Alignment at IAG scheduled.
 
Go to Firestone Tire. Buy "Lifetime Alignment." Should be about $150.

How much are you paying every time you change to your "winter suspension" ?
 
100

Worth it. I want my specs precise. Not just "in spec"

I doubt Firestone or any other tire shop will put that effort in, or add ballast to account for driver weight.
 
Last edited:
100

Worth it. I want my specs precise. Not just "in spec"

I doubt Firestone or any other tire shop will put that effort in, or add ballast to account for driver weight.

They had me sit in the car for 45 minutes while they set the alignment so I could get it perfect. I wanted -2.25f with me in it, and they asked how much I weighed, and when they found out that nobody in the shop was my weight they had me sit in for about 45 minutes. They got it to -1.89 on one side, and the other side -1.97, so I asked them to make them both even, and they did it, with me still in the car. I even got to keep all of the printouts.

And they did it again when I discovered that I could remove my rear seats and still be in the same class. And again when I had to remove and reinstall the suspension bolts to put new brake line brackets in. And again when I wanted more negative camber after I installed a second set of cam-bolts.

Best $150 I ever spent on the car. Ask Chris about it, he did the same thing for months, but he went all out and had it set to something ridiculous like -6f and -3r before every autox, IIRC.
 
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