My new 2010 Subaru WRX

[Dual-500]

We ran into what was almost a major issue.

When re-installing the steering rack bolts, one bolt would go back in. Upon inspection, the first thread or two was crossed. We tried to put a tap through it but a tap just wouldn't NOT bit in properly. We literally spent an hour or two trying everything to clean up these threads. Finally I said fuck it and tried to get the bolt started straight, luckily I was about to. Snugged it down as tight as I dared for fear of ripping out all of the remaining threads.

Thought I was going to have to replace the whole front subframe after that

Helicoil.

 

[GSRCRXsi]

Yeah. It was 11pm and I didn't have a 10x1.25 mm helicoil kit.

Can you even helicoil a welded nut? Lol

 

[GSRCRXsi]

This is a TMIC. There's really only 3 places it can be leaking.

Turbo - Intercooler coupler
Intercooler - throttle body couple
BPV on the TMIC.

I'm hoping its the BPV connection. I have t bolts on everything. Dealing with the couplers is a huge pain in the ass. With this thing. It fits so tight.

 

[jeffie7]

My car always sounds like its leaking when it hits zero boost once it goes positive it sounds fine. Kinda weird at first but now I'm use to it.

 

[jeffie7]

Btw time sert > all

 

[Celerity]

Btw time sert > all

Indeed. Once you use a timecert, you will toss your helicoils.

 

[GSRCRXsi]

I agree on time serts. But again. They are expensive and have to be purchased online. Not a good last minute fix option.

And the fact that this is threads of a nut that's welded to the back of flat steel. Not sure if its even possible to helicoil or time sert that

 

[GSRCRXsi]

some pics of my install:

wrapped COBB DP + PTP lava blanket

COBB heat sheild (with DEI gold reflective tape underneath) over the blanket

Spearco Intercooler with Turbosmart Kompact BPV

 

[GSRCRXsi]

no good pics of the engine/tranny mount install.

heres a good pic to show the difference between the Group N tranny mount and the stock mount

also not my pics, but here you can see the whiteline transmission subframe bushings, called the "Positive Shift Kit". they go between the pieces of the tranny support members. the stock ones are super soft gummy rubber. they can literally be bent in half and are very pliable. the WL ones are stiff poly.

between the GroupN engine mounts, transmission mounts, and the WL tranny subframe bushings, there was a noticeable tightening of the driveline. so much less slop. and a tad more vibration, but nothing like a full poly setup. the stiff rubber is still very liveable. i have poly engine mounts in the crx, and it shakes and rattles like crazy. the WRX just buzzes a little more lol.

 

[TurboMirage]

mmm so nice!

 

[GSRCRXsi]

the intercooler is a bitch to mount up. its so huge. and the provided couplers are cheap and not exactly the right lengths. the throttle body coupler seems too long, and the turbo coupler seems too short. the couplers are also quite thin, which makes the OD pretty much the minimum diameter for the T-bolt clamps.

i think im going to order up some better couplers. ones that are thicker and cut them to the correct length.

 

[awptickes]

I had issues with my civic's turbo setup with the couplers. Once I bought couplers that were slightly more expensive, it was all gravy.

 

[invisibledemon]

so, being a person that has never modified a turbo car, i have to ask: is there no danger of too much insulation around the turbo? i know that the point is to keep as much hot air out of the engine bay, but with the blanket and the heat shield, is there any threat of over heating the turbo, causing early failure of any type?

 

[E_SolSi]

good question... never really thought about that one either
looking forward to an answer

 

[GSRCRXsi]

I had the same concerns initially. I asked around on NASIOC and some of the guys at IAG. The general concensus was that it won't hurt anything.

 

[hondarin]

Do you have a turbo timer? I wouldn't be worried too much about the steel, but oil coking could be an issue.

 

[jeffie7]

Do you have a turbo timer? I wouldn't be worried too much about the steel, but oil coking could be an issue.

Not really needed with the subarus.

 

[awptickes]

it's a water cooled turbo.

 

[GSRCRXsi]

+2 to not needing a turbo timer.

 

[GSRCRXsi]

So I spent all day today prepping the 2 pots for the rear.

I had them sandblasted by Doug's coworker. These were originally red (06-07 wrx) then the previous owner gooped on some terrible black paint over top of it. It was so gummy and soft. 2 passes of aircraft stripper had trouble with it. Doug said that it was a nightmare to blast too.

Freshly blasted.

Taped up ready for paint.

I painted these the same as when I painted the front 4-pots (earlier in this thread). Paint used was VHT "flameproof" header paint. Chemical resistant, and will withstand temps up to 1500-2000F. Over kill for brakes obviously, but the finish is great. And it's super hard and lasts a long time. The paint on the fronts still looks great if I wash off the brake dust.

3 coats of paint, then removed the tape while it was still tacky.

Let dry for 3 hours

Time for the curing process. To be chemical resistant and increase the durability you have to cure this stuff in the oven.

250F for 30 mins, let cool for 30 mins
400F for 30 mins, let cool for 30 mins
600F for 30 mins, let cool until you can handle them.

My oven wouldn't go up to 600, so I did the final temp at 550. Close enough.

After the paint was cured, I moved to clear coat. The matte black looks nice, but the clear really makes them shine and deepens the black. When I did the fronts, I cleared right after paint and cured with the clear on. This limited my final temp to 500F since that's all the clear is rated for, and the clear started to bubble on the last round of heating. So this time I figured Id clear after curing to avoid that problem.

Popped the cleared caliper halves in the oven cause I didn't feel like waiting another 3 hours for it to dry. 275 for 25 mins seemed to work well.

Then once it was cool enough, I completed the assembly. Put in new piston seals (reused the seals between the halves) new boots, and bolted the assemblies back together. Added all the hardware and new pads. It's ready to install at this point.

So this took pretty much all day, but it came out great and I think I'm gonna be happy with them.