My new 2010 Subaru WRX
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Hmm. Looks like you need more fueling and more boost capacity. 
see the list above. 
08+ 5spds are NOT the same glass trannies as in the 02-07. the 08+ use a slighly beefier trans like whats in the LGT.
but youre right, i probably wont push more than 400 through it without upgrading.
injectors are 1000cc now, i had them put in during the motor build.
but youre right, i probably wont push more than 400 through it without upgrading.
injectors are 1000cc now, i had them put in during the motor build.
I'm not going to bother with EWG on this turbo. Seems like a waste when it's not the setup I want in the long run.
The BW IWG turbos I'm wanting have an IWG nearly as effective as an EWG at regulating boost and controlling boost creep. Plus, especially if I end up with twin scroll, IWG will be much simpler from a packaging perspective. Less pipes, less customization needed.
The BW IWG turbos I'm wanting have an IWG nearly as effective as an EWG at regulating boost and controlling boost creep. Plus, especially if I end up with twin scroll, IWG will be much simpler from a packaging perspective. Less pipes, less customization needed.
looks good!
Well since the government opened back up, I was able to use the shop and do some things.
I've had the PLX M300 wideband unit wired up and ready to go for a while now, but I just needed to put the sensor in the downpipe and plug it in. So I finally did that today. And everything seems to be running great.
I've had the PLX M300 wideband unit wired up and ready to go for a while now, but I just needed to put the sensor in the downpipe and plug it in. So I finally did that today. And everything seems to be running great.
I also lubed up the front sway bar because it was creaking and squeaking.
Since I'm the kind of person who goes over the top and I'm a sucker for fancy pinkies up expensive shit, of course I bought grease that's $20/12oz tube.
CAT Desert Gold. This stuff is no joke. It's sticky as hell and the properties sound amazing. So I'll see how long it lasts. I have high hopes for this stuff.
Cat Parts: Parts › Machine Fluids › Greases › Desert Gold Grease
And I did my last oil change with the break-in oil. At IAGs request, I've been running Royal Purple Break-in oil since the motor was built. They said the intervals weren't really strict, they just recommend their normal 500/1000/1500/2000 intervals to make sure the customers are keeping an eye on the oil levels and not running it dry If the motor happens to be burning/using some oil in the beginning. I check the oil level at every gas fill up and this thing isn't burning/using a drop of oil.
First fill for 800 miles
Second fill for 1900 miles
And I'll leave this final fill in for another 2000 miles
Then switch to a regular synthetic. I'll likely start out with Mobil 1 0w-40 (I already have it), and run that for the winter, then run Rotella T6 5w-40 in the summer.
Since I'm the kind of person who goes over the top and I'm a sucker for fancy pinkies up expensive shit, of course I bought grease that's $20/12oz tube.
CAT Desert Gold. This stuff is no joke. It's sticky as hell and the properties sound amazing. So I'll see how long it lasts. I have high hopes for this stuff.
Cat Parts: Parts › Machine Fluids › Greases › Desert Gold Grease
And I did my last oil change with the break-in oil. At IAGs request, I've been running Royal Purple Break-in oil since the motor was built. They said the intervals weren't really strict, they just recommend their normal 500/1000/1500/2000 intervals to make sure the customers are keeping an eye on the oil levels and not running it dry If the motor happens to be burning/using some oil in the beginning. I check the oil level at every gas fill up and this thing isn't burning/using a drop of oil.
First fill for 800 miles
Second fill for 1900 miles
And I'll leave this final fill in for another 2000 miles
Then switch to a regular synthetic. I'll likely start out with Mobil 1 0w-40 (I already have it), and run that for the winter, then run Rotella T6 5w-40 in the summer.
grease for heavy equipment? thats pretty cool! my dad does something alike for the s10. adds zerk fittings to everything too. wicked over the top.
really happy to hear it's going well. when will you start beating the pants off of it?
really happy to hear it's going well. when will you start beating the pants off of it?
Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
other than running Mobile 0 weight I'd say looking good!!!!
I don't think I could ever convince myself to run that light of weight on a built motor.
Some of our Subies like impreza 2.0ltr. (0-20) see a slight loss of oil due to it being so thin. (on hard drivers) they NEED it but if it seeps through a NA 2.0 i can't imagine a built 20psi monster.
it's your beast, tame it like you feel best.
I don't think I could ever convince myself to run that light of weight on a built motor.
Some of our Subies like impreza 2.0ltr. (0-20) see a slight loss of oil due to it being so thin. (on hard drivers) they NEED it but if it seeps through a NA 2.0 i can't imagine a built 20psi monster.
it's your beast, tame it like you feel best.
Taco, look up what oil codes mean.
0w40 is not a 0 weight oil. it is a 40 weight oil. it has additives in it that make it flow and "act" like a 0w oil at very cold temperatures. this helps prevent the oil from getting too thick when its cold and improve cold weather startup protection/lubrication. at operating temperatures it acts like a normal 40w oil.
in the same breath, Rotella T6 5w40 will "act" like a 5 weight at cold temps and be a little thicker and less easy to pump. but be a 40 weight at operating temps. Rotella T6 is a thicker oil across the board than the M1 0w40, but thats just the nature of the oil. the M1 TDT 5w40 however is the direct competitor to the T6, and is said to be thicker still. I'd imagine most people run the T6 over the TDT mainly due to price and the T6 being plenty protection.
regardless, Im still running the break-in oil, which is the Royal Purple i listed above. according to RP's spec sheet, its a 10w30 convensional oil.
0w40 is not a 0 weight oil. it is a 40 weight oil. it has additives in it that make it flow and "act" like a 0w oil at very cold temperatures. this helps prevent the oil from getting too thick when its cold and improve cold weather startup protection/lubrication. at operating temperatures it acts like a normal 40w oil.
in the same breath, Rotella T6 5w40 will "act" like a 5 weight at cold temps and be a little thicker and less easy to pump. but be a 40 weight at operating temps. Rotella T6 is a thicker oil across the board than the M1 0w40, but thats just the nature of the oil. the M1 TDT 5w40 however is the direct competitor to the T6, and is said to be thicker still. I'd imagine most people run the T6 over the TDT mainly due to price and the T6 being plenty protection.
regardless, Im still running the break-in oil, which is the Royal Purple i listed above. according to RP's spec sheet, its a 10w30 convensional oil.
Yeah, powdered graphite and knead it into the grease with a card (hotel key-cards work well) on a sheet of plastic (packaging plastic from a clamshell pack works well) and once it's a little thicker, then load it into a turkey injector/large syringe and squirt/inject into the bushings.