Another CRX dirt track racecar...

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:no:



Weighs the same.



No. Same deck height between B20 and B18. The B20 intake manifolds are taller- but you should swap those over to B18 manifolds anyway for better top end power.



Yes, they're made of glass. They're engineered to crack under stock power conditions, not to mention after 100k+ miles of abuse by the average owner who doesn't know how to maintain them in an older CR-V.

They are NOT fragile. The B20 sleeve will handle quite a bit of power. As far as limitations, you're looking at people with bad tuning or who are just getting too aggressive on their builds or trying to cut corners.

If you're going to run a B20 straight up in a dirt track car, it'll run great. Pack on 300hp more from boost or a bad nitrous setup- then we'll talk about how "fragile" the sleeves are.


:concur:

B20+b16 tranny=:eek:
 
Im pretty sure he did make it a 2 layer..pretty sure. and a new clutch masters stg 2 clutch also. (this is in the ef...not that it matters though) thanks for input:D

no problem bro :thumbsup: and i read that it was in the ef but for some reason my dumbass still typed eg. Eh what ever. Good luck tho. Cant wait to see some vids with good audio haha.


:no:



Weighs the same.



No. Same deck height between B20 and B18. The B20 intake manifolds are taller- but you should swap those over to B18 manifolds anyway for better top end power.

Thanks but i already knew this and cleared this up for chris...
 
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until I get a better camera for the crx, you'll have to watch the other cars videos, or turn my sound down...lol. a new camera or ...new tires...hmmmm. camera wont me faster...lol. I really appreciate everyones thoughts on this, I'm loving it, It seems to have a sparked a new interest in what these bad boys can do. lots of people at the track asking how they compare to the mini trucks I used to run...and tell them there is NO comparison...these cars flat get it on. This weekend there will be another guy video recording from the stand side of the track so, should be able to link some good vids from the stands of the cars laying it down:D

on another note.. Calesta...I read somewhere while searching for info on the solid radius arm bushings, that you might have a cheap(redneck) trick to eliminate wheel hop on a crx or civic? care to share or point in the direction of link...thanks man.
 
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Thanks but i already knew this and cleared this up for chris...

Actually, you didn't... all your posts in this thread, including the one I just quoted:

the eg running the GSR block and b16 head should get a thinner head gasket considering the compression is now lower than a stock GSR motor. I think a two layer hg would lower back to stock compression maybe a little higher.

Nope same block (essentially), just a larger bore.

HOw would a b20 have more weight than a b18? A b20 is just a bored out b18.

You never say anything about intake manifold height. I was adding more specifics so that he KNEW what was different- not just "oh they're the same."
 
on another note.. Calesta...I read somewhere while searching for info on the solid radius arm bushings, that you might have a cheap(redneck) trick to eliminate wheel hop on a crx or civic? care to share or point in the direction of link...thanks man.

I don't know where the link is- but all you have to do is get huge diameter fender washers with a half inch hole in them and stack them up on both sides of the cross-member until you can bolt it all up super tight. It's the cheap way ($10 for a box of washers) to solidify the radius rods, but it won't get rid of your wheel hop if the engine mounts are shot, and it WILL work its way loose if your suspension isn't stiff enough to prevent that spot from pivoting. Believe me, I've had them come loose before. Not fun.

OR do it the right way and get the Energy Suspension front strut rod bushings: 16.7102

Energy Suspension 16.7102 Front Strut Rod Bushings

Really not that expensive.

ES167102G_lg.jpg
 
will the energy suspension bushings be better than this Front Radius Rod Pivots - Pair - 18.1001 by Progress

I really think if I can get rid of wheel hop, she be down right dirty fast. this looked like the closest thing to a traction bar setup...I cant use a tb set-up without remounting and fabing my lower bumper frame supports, so was trying to find another way to solid mount the radius arms...what do you think?
:mellow:
 
Yup. Solid joints >>> those poly bushings. Quite a bit more expensive though- but at least they won't bind like $10 of washers will.

If you want to do it yourself- you could weld in drill a hole straight through the rod mount area in the front cross member, thread in some bolt, add your own tie-rod end joints, then weld it all in place and weld the tie rod ends to the radius rods. Doable in an hour or two, and still way cheaper than that $180 setup.
 
ive got a quick and dirty traction bar using those metal joints, if i go home this week i'll try to take some pictures. my setup is very different since i have a crossmember going down the middle of the engine bay but it will make sense to you.
 
well heres whats left of the #25 car...put into the wall again by the same car that put him in the wall last week...this ones junk...2 weeks to go till next race and a entire car to build...and the #44 eg took home 1st...videos later

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damn thats pretty bent..my thing has always been if you rub me once its racing,if you continue its bullshit,if you wreck me i will get you back..
 
damn thats pretty bent..my thing has always been if you rub me once its racing,if you continue its bullshit,if you wreck me i will get you back..

true that...hes gonna be lacking some friends if he ever makes it back...tore his car up really bad too...damn walls dont move...
ya...a damn hard lick...but the driver is ok...just a bit sore and some bruising...heres the videos from sat...:cry:
this is the in car video from my crx of the heat race...(remember turn volume down first)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQo0-wEr23c
this is the minioutlaw main event...
YouTube - madras speedway minioutlaw main from the pits 5-15-10
 
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We are in Alabama racing civic hb (dirt track) Could use some helpfull input and tips . If there is any way to contact you that would be great. Or you can email me or call me edwoods1972@yahoo.com and can also give you my number or I can call you. Thanks Ed
 
so the crx got a new body and engine harness out of a 95 gsr integra, also bought a gsr timing belt and water pump to go on tomorrow, try andget the cooling in the happy range by not forcing the water through the motor so fast or cavatating.
the ef hatch has now turned into a ek coupe...
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dont have pics yet of cage in, very soon though...fuel cell mounted, seat brackets in, starts and runs, but need to swap over the clutch pedal assembly for the cable tranny conversion...should be tracking by this weekend. really only thing were missing to bad ass...is a hood and a rf fender...damn those bitches are too spendy to put on a racecar...lol
update on the EG...he's all back together and all cocky gonna run out there and grab another first place trophy...:beer:
 
I agree with the tuner...we should not be spinning these over the 7800...but when we are only running 2nd gear we have about 300ft or so wide open out of the corner and not enough time to shift to 3rd before your shutting it down for the next corner...I also think alot of the rpms are due to wheel spin(breaking loose) at about half the distance.

Not sure if I read right but if you have a B16 transmission....this could be a problem for those high rev's and not wanting to shift to 3rd with a corner ahead. The B16 2nd doesn't go as long as a LS transmission's 2nd. You may want to think of that too. But that also means that you will be coming out of the corner at a little lower rpm too. But it would help with the need to have lower revs throughout the track and can save the motor. You are racing it balls out and I would think an LS transmission would keep the motor in the car longer (AKA no snap-crackle-pop motor blew up).

Another plus side is you wont be such high revs out of the corner and that means traction isn't as much as a factor.

But if you have an LS transmission already.....maybe a B20 with a hydro-cable conversion?
 
Not sure if I read right but if you have a B16 transmission....this could be a problem for those high rev's and not wanting to shift to 3rd with a corner ahead. The B16 2nd doesn't go as long as a LS transmission's 2nd. You may want to think of that too. But that also means that you will be coming out of the corner at a little lower rpm too. But it would help with the need to have lower revs throughout the track and can save the motor. You are racing it balls out and I would think an LS transmission would keep the motor in the car longer (AKA no snap-crackle-pop motor blew up).

Another plus side is you wont be such high revs out of the corner and that means traction isn't as much as a factor.

But if you have an LS transmission already.....maybe a B20 with a hydro-cable conversion?

The ef that scattered the motor he was running a a1 cable tranny, the eg is running the b16 hydro, and my crx is running a gsr trans

yeah you read it right...the b16 hydro was the only tranny we could get our paws on during the build. he is on the hunt for a ls hydro now. I am running the gsr cable in the crx and its just about perfect for quickness and top end speed on the straights...but still hitting the rev limiter of 8200 at the end of the straight. right now were are just working with what we got...definitly plans are in the mix if another tranny comes up.
 
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