Matts96HB's EJ6 Build
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For a quick, down and dirty Rattle Can job don't wet sand. Waste of time. Just wash it good and use Scothc Brite pads and dry prep or "Scuff" it. Not suggesting you make a mess out of it. If there are areas that need wet sanding, those will be areas you will be also using some primer to work it smooth. No primer, no wet sand. If priming, then wet sand. Either way the final scuff before paint should be done with Scotchbrite pads for your type of effort - it will yield good enough results and save you a bunch of time.Well you'll be sadly disappointed then. It's not that serious, in fact its a total joke. lol I dont care enough about the car to do it right and I'm probably going to be doing it panel by panel so it'll all depend on my mood for the day each is done. I'll wet sand it if I for some reason feel up to it but I doubt it..
Here take this, and picture Si components in place of base model shit.
We need to cut the "Thread Jack" here - time for you to post it on up!
EDIT: Bringing back memories here. Last car I painted was a 1967 Chevelle for a buddy. Thinking about wetting down the spray booth, walking around the car splashing while carrying a DeVilbiss 2 quart gun filled with R&M Acrylic Lacquer - color was Cold Fire.
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Then wet sanding shouldn't be happening either. What I'm talking here is spot priming.
You really should post up a thread...
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wet Samsung???
Similar to a "Wax on - Wax off" process only without the VTECH Fluid...
They're a nice entry level coilover. They perform well (especially for the cost) but they are a little harsh for a daily driver. Even with the adjustments set all the way to soft, the ride is bone-jarring. Lol
Oh yeah! A good "Bone Jawing" is always fun too!
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I looked a couple of places and all I could find is RustOLeum Undercoating that was $5 a can. I'm going to give that a try in the wheel wells.
Maybe I'll try an auto parts store today, I was looking at building supply places - Sutherlands and Home Depot is where I looked.
If I find some, I'll compare them in different wheel wells. There's also some tool rubber coating stuff that may work well for undercoating to reduce road noise. Thinking about giving some of that a go also.
Gotcha, thanks. It seems that no one besides Koni makes shocks for the RSX anymore, so it's either springs with Koni Yellows or a full coilover. This is just for daily driver duties though, so I don't want to drop like 2 grand on some track-ready coils. I like that these have the pillowball mounts in the front. The RSX has Macpherson struts up front, so that would eliminate the need for front camber adjustors.
From what you're saying it seems like they might be a little rough still for daily driver duties though. Might have to just go for the Koni Yellows...
And what praytell, did you have to do?Good news, the bolt hole is fixed! Back on track with the VTEC head swap
