LS_VTEC
you get the BRAKE
he said he torqued the rod bolts down three times, so now you have to unbolt them and torque them again. those bolts are taking alot of abuse.
when he removes the pistons from the cylinders, he prolly going to scratch the walls, damage the crank journals again, and screw up his wonderful ACL bearings.
what a waste of money!!!!!
oh and you don't need a "press" to push in the rear main seal, take a rubber mallet to it around the edges and it goes right it. just make sure you put it in the right way. better look at the manual before you install it.
I noticed this earlier. The arrow faces that direction to make sure the oil hole in the rods match to the piston for lubrication purposes. I am in no way rushing this build. The only time I get to work on the engine is after 11pm.
Do you know why you torque the rod bolts down three times? To measure stretch. ARP recommends that you torque the bolts three times to make sure the rod bolt does not stretch too much. In the event of that happening, the rod bolt is considered defective. Now this does not happen very often, especially when using oem rods with oem spec. size rod bolts.
As for the rear main seal, I tried it with a rubber mallet and it would not go in. You need to make sure the housing is level (flat) and you have to put, say, a piece of wood or something equivalant to that ontop of the new seal for it to go in evenly without damaging it. A press isnt needed, but makes it a lot easier if done properly.
As for the ACL bearings, me taking the pistons/rods back out won't damage them at all. Think about the pressures on them when your engine is running. The cylinder walls will be fine. And as long as the rod bolt caps dont fall off like they did before (which they wont), no rod journal will be affected.