Rich's Street/Rat F100 Build Thread

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Yes, yes, yes, and no. No dragging with air tank frame. lol
 
I think with the torque biased motor, it would be best to stick with the 3.70. Thoughts?

I had 3.50's in a truck that had about twice the torque your lookin at. It was ok in town and on the freeway (for a little while anyways). I got a friend with 3.73's in his small block truck, and its not bad in town but the freeway is out. I dont even like ridin in the truck at anything over 40 for any length of time.

Just depends on how often, how far and how fast youll be drivin it.
 
Good call. After doing some reading, it looks like anything higher than 3.0 with the C6 (3spd) is going to wind out a bit at highway speed. I'll run it for a bit and see how it suits me then make any changes I need to.

It's a 9" so gear changes take about an hour so not a big deal. Then there's the cost of a new center section...
 
Mine was in a 9" too. You can get factory center sections on the cheap, then build em how you want. Theres a somewhat local guy up here with an older T-Bird that has a 428 and 9". He says he has 3 setup and ready to rock. I cant member the exact ratios, but he said he run somethin in the mid 3's most of the time, he has one that was like 3.0, then if hes not goin far anytime soon he has like a 4.11 set he swaps in. Its just like you said, gear swaps are easy.
 
Remember to take into consideration what tire diameter you will be using.
 
I picked up a whole pig for the 9 in my Cherokee off Craigslist for $80. Just make sure and check if you have the 28 or 31 spline shafts.
 
Good 28 spline axles will hold up to quite a bit of power.
 
Hope so. I want to start seeing some rat. Frames are boring, who needs them?
 
Ya gay. I'm scrapping the I beams and building a SALA IFS. I bought spindles this week and new wheels. I'm half done the rear disc conversion and close to buttoning up the rear suspension completely. I should have a big ass pic update by next weekend.
 
Remember to take into consideration what tire diameter you will be using.

For sure

So, I've been pretty busy getting stuff done the last few weeks. Here goes:

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On to the rear disc conversion. I had to make a spacer to take up the room where the drum backing plate used to be:

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Wire brushed flange bolts...the painstaking details:

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Picked up a Summit intake manifold and old Holley valve covers at the Pomona swap meet. $70!

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Finished the disc conversion:

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Started the wishbone:

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Finished the wishbone tubing and got the passenger side lower link bar tacked for mock up:

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I have to mock up the other side then cycle it through to make sure there are no interferences and the pinion angle is behaving appropriately. Otherwise, we should be sprung within the next two weeks then, on to the front chassis.

Also, I am going to make a sheet metal tie plate to go between the two wishbone links, with hole cuts and dimple dies to stiffen it. I will need to get creative to get it to clear the driveline.
 
I'm interested to see the rear sway bar design and how it will integrate with what you have thus far. Looks real nice BTW.
 
If the wishbone carries all the lateral support it will have to be super mondo rigid. Thinking during hard cornering on an uneven surface. A sway bar in the equation may help there.

No criticism intended, just looking over your shoulder and thinking out loud. :cool:
 
Are you gunna run a panhard bar? That would eliminate the need for a sway bar.

How are you gunna finish the frame end of the LCA mounts?

Thats a nice lookin disc conversion. Does the caliper float like it needs to though?

Im really diggin the craftsmanship so far. Very nice work, and attention to detail.
 
Are you gunna run a panhard bar? That would eliminate the need for a sway bar.

How are you gunna finish the frame end of the LCA mounts?

Thats a nice lookin disc conversion. Does the caliper float like it needs to though?

Im really diggin the craftsmanship so far. Very nice work, and attention to detail.

Panhard bar - absolutely not. It is triangulated. Also, a panhard bar does not replace a sway bar. A panhard bar is a locating device and a sway bar is an anti-roll and stabilization device.

The ends of those tubes will either be capped and smoothed or I will make a sheet metal spike to mimic the one on the wishbone.

Calipers - of course they float newb lol. That bracket is designed specifically for the GM metric chassis front caliper and they slide along the through bolt at the caliper end. You are at least the fourth person to ask that. Most Mustang II kits come with that caliper and a similar bracket.

If the wishbone carries all the lateral support it will have to be super mondo rigid. Thinking during hard cornering on an uneven surface. A sway bar in the equation may help there.

No criticism intended, just looking over your shoulder and thinking out loud.
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The wishbone does not carry ALL the lateral load. The lower links absorb some. The rigid shock mounts (heims) will absorb some. The bag mounts will absorb some. And for sure, a sway bar will absorb some as well. The operative word here is SOME. Although they may be negligible amounts, they all contribute. The lower links alone are rather inflexible. Obviously a centering device is required.

I am planning on adapting a rear sway bar that I have from the F-150 I got the front clip from.
 
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