BAM son!!
vendor here .. lol
https://hondaswap.com/vendor-classifieds/private-label-mfg-power-driven-headers-h-b-k-series-255706/
Taco's Crx type R build
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BAM son!!
vendor here .. lol
https://hondaswap.com/vendor-classifieds/private-label-mfg-power-driven-headers-h-b-k-series-255706/
Yep - it's tuning and tuning is tuning. Low "Q" or broad band power or High "Q" with it's inherent narrower power band and where in the power band to tune to.
There are some cool formulas for 2 stroke pipes I've used in a past life - if memory serves me correctly the header pipe diameter is something like 1/3 the diameter of the piston.
For 4-stroke header design there will be similar formulas - I've never explored them other than for length on a straight pipe.
Interesting design theory isn't it.
Same here - real interesting reading. I have some good reference books somewhere from back when I used to do a lot of 2 stroke tuning. Two-Stroke Tuners Handbook is my favorite.
Gordon Jenning's 2 Stroke Tuners Handbook
Have a look - starting on page 51 he gets into tuned pipes.
Gordon Jenning's 2 Stroke Tuners Handbook
Have a look - starting on page 51 he gets into tuned pipes.
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Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
damn. nice read. 
And eg:
Bam! yeah it's the same company.
need to head out to see the crx t make sure I order the important stuff it really needs.
cams, I decided with the pro1's with springs and retainers.
holding off on IM and throttle body until I see the OBX ITB's on the other epicness thread.
going to also get some control arms, bushings and ES stuff for suspension.
other than the k sport coilovers every rubber under there is worn the F out. it's old
And eg:
Bam! yeah it's the same company.
need to head out to see the crx t make sure I order the important stuff it really needs. cams, I decided with the pro1's with springs and retainers.
holding off on IM and throttle body until I see the OBX ITB's on the other epicness thread.
going to also get some control arms, bushings and ES stuff for suspension.
other than the k sport coilovers every rubber under there is worn the F out. it's old
damn. nice read.
And eg:
Bam! yeah it's the same company.
cams, I decided with the pro1's with springs and retainers.
holding off on IM and throttle body until I see the OBX ITB's on the other epicness thread.
going to also get some control arms, bushings and ES stuff for suspension.
other than the k sport coilovers every rubber under there is worn the F out. it's old
Good choice on the Pro1's. And you'll probably be waiting a while to find out about those OBX ITB's
Might as well go Hard Race spherical everywhere. I think I'd rather go OE than Poly if you don't want sphericals. The poly deforms and doesn't go back to its original shape over short period of time.
Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
yeah if I had that much free time
the harness has been complete for a week now but have not had time to go install it. the car is 30 minutes away from my house.
here's the pics.
everything is now full plug and play. Once I hook it up then I'll cover the wire colors.
Attachments
Pull all that old sh!t offa there when ready to wrap. I see the starter solenoid wire - where's the BIGGUN for the Alternator?
You going to wrap with split loom (convoluted tubing)? Double wrap that with some good tape. Use at least Scotch 33+ or Scotch Super 88 is even better for engine harness (thicker than 33+).
Wrap it one way and then back the other way. And go over the nodes or breakout points real good.
Just like factory new.
They look pretty good BTW!
You going to wrap with split loom (convoluted tubing)? Double wrap that with some good tape. Use at least Scotch 33+ or Scotch Super 88 is even better for engine harness (thicker than 33+).
Wrap it one way and then back the other way. And go over the nodes or breakout points real good.
Just like factory new.
They look pretty good BTW!
Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
yeah I went to HD and made sure to get the good tape.
Scotch 3m (yellow interior color)
Once I hook it up I'm going to use small loom for the individual wires.
ohh and the starte wire will be stinger 4 awg for power and grounds since the battery is going to be a yellow top or red.
I can't wait to hook it up to see if it works.
Scotch 3m (yellow interior color)
Once I hook it up I'm going to use small loom for the individual wires.
ohh and the starte wire will be stinger 4 awg for power and grounds since the battery is going to be a yellow top or red.
I can't wait to hook it up to see if it works.
Here's my take on Optima battery's - they rock. Now, red top -vs- yellow top. Well, when I bought my red top it was cheaper than the yellow top and had a longer warranty. Red top for average use profile. Yellow top for deep cycle, i.e. run stereo with engine shut off while parked.
Yellow had higher price tag, shorter warranty, deep cycle.
I think the cells are exactly the same and they just put yellow plastic on the top of one and red on the other. They charge more and issue a shorter warranty to cover failures due to the nasty usage profile of the yellow top.
Not an uncommon practice - and I don't fault Optima a single itty bitty bit if that's what they do.
I'm good with the cheaper red top version.
Yellow had higher price tag, shorter warranty, deep cycle.
I think the cells are exactly the same and they just put yellow plastic on the top of one and red on the other. They charge more and issue a shorter warranty to cover failures due to the nasty usage profile of the yellow top.
Not an uncommon practice - and I don't fault Optima a single itty bitty bit if that's what they do.
I'm good with the cheaper red top version.
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Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
I definitly don't need a deep cycle any more. I just need something with some juice to crank the car so the red top it is.
but that's a nother story. first I got to get that joker to fire up!
I've read on several diffenent posts on a few sites about alternators. I always used the A$%^ Z*#^ lifetime guarantee alternators. They are indeed junk. I went through at least 3 of them - maybe 4 or 5 over the past 9 years on the hatch.
Yeah, they replace them for free - but, it's not worth it. The new 160 amp (not saying you need one that big) I put on mine charges up way better - you can tell when cranking the starter - it really turns over. Lights are brighter and I know the ignition is hotter.
With a voltmeter I can check the voltage on the Optima in it and it looks to be weakened from a less than full charge over time from the shitty alternator.
Battery life is a simple function of charge condition over time. The lower the charge condition, the shorter time span you have between charges before the plates start to oxidize and it begins to loose capacity.
I'll check it with a load tester soon, but am pretty sure it's not all it once was. It's a monster battery, so at ~30% condition it would probably run the hatch. My guess is it's probably about 70% condition. Meaning at full charge it will only output 70% of rated amperage and joules of energy. Or, stated in other terms only take a 70% charge.
It's best to keep them correctly charged and get maximum life and service from them.
When fully charged and off the charger overnight - or car shut off overnight if installed. Measure the battery voltage. It will probably be between 12.0 & 13.0 volts. 13.0 volts = 100% charge condition and battery condition. 12.5 volts is ~50% charge condition and means the battery will only produce ~50% of it's rated power and so on. They don't track perfectly to the volts-to-condition formula, but they track very closely to it. i.e. 12.3v = ~30% and so on.
Get a killer alternator for the killer battery. Use an OEM or a good aftermarket with more capacity - I'd suggest at least 120 amp capacity.
The guys that say that are right and I'm a believer now.
Yeah, they replace them for free - but, it's not worth it. The new 160 amp (not saying you need one that big) I put on mine charges up way better - you can tell when cranking the starter - it really turns over. Lights are brighter and I know the ignition is hotter.
With a voltmeter I can check the voltage on the Optima in it and it looks to be weakened from a less than full charge over time from the shitty alternator.
Battery life is a simple function of charge condition over time. The lower the charge condition, the shorter time span you have between charges before the plates start to oxidize and it begins to loose capacity.
I'll check it with a load tester soon, but am pretty sure it's not all it once was. It's a monster battery, so at ~30% condition it would probably run the hatch. My guess is it's probably about 70% condition. Meaning at full charge it will only output 70% of rated amperage and joules of energy. Or, stated in other terms only take a 70% charge.
It's best to keep them correctly charged and get maximum life and service from them.
When fully charged and off the charger overnight - or car shut off overnight if installed. Measure the battery voltage. It will probably be between 12.0 & 13.0 volts. 13.0 volts = 100% charge condition and battery condition. 12.5 volts is ~50% charge condition and means the battery will only produce ~50% of it's rated power and so on. They don't track perfectly to the volts-to-condition formula, but they track very closely to it. i.e. 12.3v = ~30% and so on.
Get a killer alternator for the killer battery. Use an OEM or a good aftermarket with more capacity - I'd suggest at least 120 amp capacity.
The guys that say that are right and I'm a believer now.
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