Taco's Crx type R build

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based on the plugs I have and harnes I created hee are my pin outs.

by the way, my harness is almost done! although I'm missing a wire which I have no idea where it goes.....i'm thinking o2.
 

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so if im not geting pulse it could be my dizzy or a prob wit my ecu i got a h22 wit ecu in a ej1 im getting feul to my injector an spark an i tried a noid ligh the light didnt flash im stuck here idk if a wired coul of got pulled or what


I'm still trying to figure mine out.
spray some ether or gas and see if it cranks up fine....if it does then it's a wiring issue elswhere.
 
so if im not geting pulse it could be my dizzy or a prob wit my ecu i got a h22 wit ecu in a ej1 im getting feul to my injector an spark an i tried a noid ligh the light didnt flash im stuck here idk if a wired coul of got pulled or what
Start another thread with this and clean up the shorthand spelling. You can probably get the assistance you need if ya try that.

This is Taco's thread for his project. You should also have one for your project.

:cool:
 
based on the plugs I have and harnes I created hee are my pin outs.

by the way, my harness is almost done! although I'm missing a wire which I have no idea where it goes.....i'm thinking o2.
What are you doing here? Are these the disconnects on the passenger side (RH) engine harness?
 
these are the disconnect on both sides.

the round and rectangle plugs are near the fuse box (engine bay)
the smaller one is near the resistor box on passenger side.

since the wire tuck all of these plugs now meet inside the car under the dash.
like I said before, my harness seems fine with the exception of the unknown white wire.

hopefully when i get off work today or this weekend I can plug it up and see if it cranks.
 
The other plug has the injector wires colored wires, IACV, and one solid yellow.
 
Yep, passenger side wheel well disconnects for the engine harness (and headlights and such too). Ya need to go to Radio Shack and get yourself a cheap DVM so you can track the wires for continuity per schematic when the harnesses are installed and connected. You will be able to check for the sensors and dizzy through to the ECO connectors - even through ECU adaptor harness too.Get yourself one of these: RadioShack® 15-Range Digital Multimeter - RadioShack.com
 
Does it have continuity check or Diode test function? That's the way to go - it will beep when you have a connection. Works great and you don't have to look at it.

Here's a few thingies I use in conjunction with the DVM (Digital Volt Meter) for testing - maybe you already have this stuff too - but, just in case.

The setting just the left of the off setting at the bottom of the mode selector switch is the test tone for continuity or diode testing

Fluke%208025.jpg


To the left of the Fluke 8025 DVM is a bag of clip leads that are real useful. The Fluke 8025 is a great meter, accurate and not too expensive. Get a used one on eBay - Fluke built a ton of them for the government so they are Mil-Spec and rugged - good switches and a heavy case - they last forever - just bought my second one 2 or 3 years ago, used of course. First one lasted about 25 years.

That's just FYI bro, I know you have a meter already, but maybe someone else will read this blabber and need one. They go from $25-50 on eBay used.

For test leads, get some real sharp pointed tips. Then get some alligator clips or clip leads as pictured. Connect them to the DVM leads. For many tests, I'll clip the black wire to the battery negative terminal, the clip leads also extend the meter leads. When troubleshooting the O2 sensor on mine, I clipped the black lead to the battery and put theDVM on the floor in front of the ECU in the passenger compartment.

Also, notice the pins. Those are model building pins available at most any hobby shop or crafts store. The two sizes I have work with just about any electrical connector. When inserting a test lead into a connector, ya don't want one too big as it could damage the connector - the small pins can be inserted and left while you test another connector. For instance, plug a pin in at the dizzy connector and work the ECU connections with both hands free in the cabin.

You can also push the pins through the insulation of a wire or wire bundle to test voltage, resistance or continuity and not damage the insulation. Real handy.

Clip%20Leads%201.jpg



Another good piece for the troubleshooting and tuneup war chest is a hand held tachometer. Again, I turn to the modeling toybox. The Glo Bee is commonly used for RC model airplanes and cars. These are around $25 and will read a 2 blade, 3 blade or 4 blade prop or index mark. I put a couple of pieces of tape on the harmonic balancer and set it for 2 blade operation. Works good for setting the idle.

Tachometer.jpg
 
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damn!

I ended up getting a nice one from my buddies audion shop.
he's all wiring so I'm sure it wll come in handy when I hook up the harness.
 
I was pussing out and realized I've never finish my last crx and damnit I want something to brag about!
F-it. finish the car and drive the piss out of it.

parts list I would like your input on. good,bad, dont need it, shitty quality, etc. most likely buy all from ebay.
Fuel rail - AEM
RC 370cc injectors - $100 from a local guy
Skunk2 IM with Throttle body OR save for ITB's (TWM, OBX)
Skunk2 Header if the RMF will work. I was looking at some bisimoto replicas but i'm just unsure of the quality
Half size radiator...maybe hitting you up modman.
Skunk2 Pro 2 cams with valve springs......later I'll be getting higher compression pistons.

I've got 2k so I need to spend wisely until next month.
 
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whats wrong with the stock fuel rail? i thought upgraded ones were just for show.
 
Ditch the aftermarket fuel rail, stock is fine.
Go with the skunk2 IM or get a edelbrock performer x and an omni 68mm TB (i do not have any experience with ITB's though)
I'd get an RMF narrow copy over the skunk2 header (support an HS vendor too!)
I'd stick with full size radiator
I'd probably go Pro1 cams vs Pro2 cams. But that is totally debatable. what will this car be used for?
 
whats wrong with the stock fuel rail? i thought upgraded ones were just for show.

pretty much. :)

the car will be a weekend driver for fun. it won't have a/c or anything.
pure spirited driving.

I didn't know we had a vendor to provide them....i'll have a look.
Half sized radiator was for the RMF header I have now. If I stick with narrow header than yeah I can use a full size.
Pro one's are better for the now but it's tough to pass up a more aggressive cam for only a few dollars more. :confused:

SO. update list
I'll look into omni and RMF header
compare Skunk2 with other IM's
exhaust
 
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Exhaust, go 3" no question.
 
that crossed my mind. :lol: we'll see which combo will work best.
I'm looking up the parts already. i should have some of the stuff ordered by this weekend.

:)
 
normally used for more top end while the 2.5 yeilds some better power in the low to mid range.

I've seen alot of guys local do it. Especially with K20 swap.
 
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