DA9 GSR SWAP

DA9don

Member
Whats up guys, haven't been on a forum since G2IC. Recently just got back into my 92 Automatic Integra LS. Originally it was my mom's first brand new car out of high school and I have taken over it and modified to my taste. The original engine and transmission has 350,XXX miles on it and it started to have problems. My original plan was to keep the block and perform a LS-Vtec conversion along with a auto-manual conversion. I had a JDM B16 head with Skunk2 cam gears and a Skunk2 68 Throttle body but that all changed when I came across a B17A1 with the original GSR cable transmission on craigslist. Long story short, I picked up the swap for $1200 and found a P61 ECU for $100. If you guys are wondering about where the engine and transmission came from, the guy who had the motor/trans removed it from a DB2 that had been t-boned on the passenger side and was rear ended. He wanted to swap the motor into his CRX-SI but ended not doing it.

Heres a pic after I washed, wet sanded the clear coat, buffed/polished and waxed. Car is faded Milano Red but paint will come when everything else is done.
Side Shot.jpg


Ive done some some upgrades to the suspension. All the bushings were shot and torn. I've used energy suspension bushings for now because it was cheap through amazon and all I can say is that I am very pleased. A lot people complained about noise but I have to say, its quiet. I used a lot of grease but it does get dirty very easily.

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Upgraded my front ball joints the the Buddy Club Extended Ball Joints.

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Also picked up a set of Enkie RPF1 and front and rear EBC brakes.

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Here is the B17A1 engine that I picked up.
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DA9don

Member
Awhile back I did purchase a Tanabe Full Catback Exhaust. I installed this exhaust when it was automatic, my old exhaust was all bent and hacked when my parents got the catalytic converter changed.
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Also got full Skunk2 Intake Manifold, 70mm Throttle Body, and Fuel Rail. Was planning on going 68mm throttle body but JHPUSA accidentally sent me a 70mm. F*ck it, why not?! LOL

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Got some Innovative Mounts too along with the Automatic to Manual Mount.

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For some Engine Updates; Power washed the engine, started removing the stock components, and started to replace some OEM parts from Acura/JHPUSA. Majority of the B17A1 parts are discontinued but ended opting for B16 parts from Honda. Type R and B16 parts for the win! FYI, Type R timing belt does not work! I am running a B16 timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and spring.

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DA9don

Member
Whats up guys, in the last 2 pics of the engine, I removed the old studs for the intake manifold. I went ahead and bought some ARP extended studs for the intake manifold. Also purchased a Skunk2 thermal gasket, some hoses for the breather chamber, new PCV, new grommets for the breather chamber, and some coolant hoses.
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Also replaced the cap and rotor with with OEM parts from JHPUSA and purchased some new spark plugs and spark plug holders. Like I said before, discontinued parts for the B17A1 so I went ahead got Type R parts. I am using a B16 valve cover and stripped the paint and panted wrinkle black(my first time). I am going to paint the original valve cover Wrinkle Red but I wanted to practice first, oh yea it is a P61 Valve cover too.

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Went to the junkyard and grabbed a T-bracket, Pedal assembly, and Driver's door handle.

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DA9don

Member
Got the motor out and power washed the engine bay. Even tackled the pedal assembly. I've decided to do a full manual conversion. Removed the automatic engine/cabin harness and put in a full manual harness. Since I am sticking with the cable transmission, I went ahead drilled the firewall.

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Even got some OEM fluids along with that Honda Bond.

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DA9don

Member
MORE UPDATES! So everything is in, it drives under its own power. The only thing that's bothering me right is the Check Engine Light. I didn't check to see what the code is but I know what it could possibly be. When switched to Skunk2 70mm throttle body, I had a extra MAP sensor with out a nipple and installed it. I also extended the map wires because the original map sensor was againts the firewall along with 2 other sensors. Mind you, the map sensor, purge cut-off solenoid, and pressure regulator solenoid (up against the firewall) were all tied in together from the factory. I did what I can and connected all the vacuum lines into the Skunk2 intake manifold(will post more pics of the vaccum lines later). Also I do plan on putting A/C back in, I do have the retrofit conversion made by Honda but I will get into that next time.

In this first pic here, I was going to run the stock intake box and cut up my intake pipe to make it work but ended up sticking with the no name cold air intake.
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Heres the cockpit with the manual assembly and short shifter. I will be sticking the Automatic Cluster. I did not want to change it at this time because it has sentimental value since this car was originally my moms car. Also it has true miles to the car itself.

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I know I have two big holes in the center console, but I ordered a cover that is by "NaytonTech" I found them on instagram and they 3D printed stuff. Please check them out, they make some pretty cool stuff for our 90's car. NaytonTech | Welcome

Took the car to my work got the alignment done. Now my car drives straight.

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DA9don

Member
Got some more updates. Installed some PLM headers, PLM test pipe, and Innovative Traction Bar. Also hit 357,000 miles on the chassis itself.
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After installing the traction bar, re did the alignments. If you look at the previous alignment spec, the caster was off, I was able to fix that with the innovative traction bar.
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My car drove straight after the alignment and popped the hood when I got home. The PLM headers changed colors. Next up on the list would be the mishimoto radiator, slim fan, and hoses. Like I said before, I want to get my A/C back in but unfortunately I have replace the radiator support. I wanted to it to be easier on myself when the time comes and all I would have to do is remove the power steering cooling line. If you look at the bottom right hand corner, the radiator support is bent in. (was my fault, I was young and reckless......) Acura doesn't sell an OEM support anymore and I not trying to go the junkyard and saw off a radiator support off another integra. Instead I bought a brand new none OEM support from LKQ.

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Heres another pic, I did a Craigslist buy and test fitted the Mishimoto radiator support before installing the engine.

mishimoto.jpg



I have not got around to fixing the check engine light. No real name brand company makes a Map sensor re-locator so I ended up opting for an eBay one.

Honda Acura Civic Integra Accord EG EK Map Sensor Re-locator relocate Adapter S | eBay
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Also this is how the vacuum lines work. If any of you have solution, please feel free to fill me in. Hopefully this re-locator works. The car does have a map sensor but it has no nipple, I will be testing out another map sensor from a friend to see if it will fix the problem.

92-93 Integra B17A1 Vacuum Diagram

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CAFROG

Honda Minion
VIP
Can you explain to me why you need a new map? I've used JDM map sensor before and it was originally on the firewall. A vacuum line runs to the throttle body. Yours looks to be a usdm map sensor. Isn't there a way to check the c e l like you can in EG civics? There's a plug that I jump with a paperclip and you read the flashing of the c e l like Morse code. I've read obd0 check engines on the actually ECU too.anyways, just trying to brainstorm with you.
 

Briansol

Admins
Staff member
Admin
VIP
the oem map is right on the air flow path, so no hose needed. with the extender, it just puts the hose out a bit to measure. should work fine as long as the seal to the TB is good.

also, it's a 92 so pretty sure it's obd1
 
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