Matts96HB's EJ6 Build

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Well at least when its all back togther correctly it will hopefully go for 200,000 miles. :)
 
Yeah, it angers me that I spent almost two weeks doing the clearances and tolerances on the bottom end, only to have stupid little issues cause problems. I could have run the engine for 6-10,0000 miles the way it was, but that isn't good enough.
 
Any headway on the motor?
Yeah, its getting there. It's at a machine shop right now.
Fuh realz yo... it's been a while.. You're still alive, I hope. I wanna see some updates!

lol
Yes I am still alive LMAO just been working a TON..
Maybe his stuff is still in the machine shop? That or he's been busy with work.
Hit the nail right on the head lmao
FUCK

I thought Matt posted.
:p


Here's the update, and it's a very funny story indeed.

Back when I bought the rods for this engine, I was sent the wrong parts. Basically I was sent GSR rods, which are about 3 thousands of an inch longer than the LS rods. The big difference is the bearing sizes though. The difference in sizes and a slight miscalculation on the clearances on the rod bearings caused the rod bearings to wear pre-maturely on the inside edge of the surface, hence the shavings that were present in my oil pan. All is well though, a new set of rods are on the way, new bearings are here, new rings, etc.. the machinist was going to have the motor back to me today before he discovered the issue with the rods.
 
There probably is no way to check which rods they are either, right? I am just curious to know.
Yeah there is, there's a slight difference in part numbers.. its like the last three I believe. Ill look into it a little further
Oh thank God. Matt is still alive. lolz

Haha, barely. I only got to drive the car for about a month so far, kinda starting to piss me off. When I get the motor back it's time to thrash! lol
 
Well at least you have the Accord, right?

Haha, the Accord was fighting me for awhile too. The main relay was going haywire. Wouldn't start in hot weather. Had to wait a week for the part to get here, and fixed that.

If all goes well, I'll find my way into the driver's seat of a 99-04 Mustang GT as a daily driver by the end of summer.. Either that or a WRX/Impreza of some sort. Right around in the 10k range is where I'm looking.
 
IS300 FTW
2jz out the box and turbo that bitch.
Haha, I'm looking to keep this car stock, and daily drive it. I want absolutely nothing aftermarket past an exhaust and intake depending on the vehicle I get.
Fuck, 10k could get you in the low 12's with a 98-02 F-Body.

Just an idea lol.
F-Body? Noob here, enlighten me? lol.

But again, I'm going to try to keep it as stock as possible just to retain that reliability factor. That's why I'm considering a 99-04 GT.. low 14's out of the box and still pretty reliable. \

Still working on the Civic for those who are watching.. I just finished the fusebox and battery relocate, and also did some tuck work with the harness on a spare motor I have. Still waiting on the machine shop to get my block and head back, after that it's go time.
 
Well... now ttyuut it that wy..
ahh wtf my keyboard is fubard lol

now that you put it that way^^^ a mustang would be a logical choice.
 
I'm going to look at one today. It's black, and it's on the Gus Johnson lot in Auto Row. A buddy mentioned it, but he didn't know if it were an automatic or manual, he just said he saw a nice looking black GT coupe on the lot for 9k. If all checks out, I could be buying this car.
 
Haha, I'm looking to keep this car stock, and daily drive it. I want absolutely nothing aftermarket past an exhaust and intake depending on the vehicle I get.

F-Body? Noob here, enlighten me? lol.

But again, I'm going to try to keep it as stock as possible just to retain that reliability factor. That's why I'm considering a 99-04 GT.. low 14's out of the box and still pretty reliable. \

Still working on the Civic for those who are watching.. I just finished the fusebox and battery relocate, and also did some tuck work with the harness on a spare motor I have. Still waiting on the machine shop to get my block and head back, after that it's go time.

I am watching^_^. I have a question about the fuse box re-location. I have an EF body and the ECU studs are that for the PM5 or PM6 ECU, so my P06 (converted to P28) does not fit in the stud location. However, I found out by some tinkering that I could put the fuse box on 2 of the stud prongs that were made for the ECU. I need another place to put the ECU near it, but I do not know if I can considering I still have to install all of my vents and blower units. Any suggestions? By the way do you have any pictures of your tuck?
 
I am watching^_^. I have a question about the fuse box re-location. I have an EF body and the ECU studs are that for the PM5 or PM6 ECU, so my P06 (converted to P28) does not fit in the stud location. However, I found out by some tinkering that I could put the fuse box on 2 of the stud prongs that were made for the ECU. I need another place to put the ECU near it, but I do not know if I can considering I still have to install all of my vents and blower units. Any suggestions? By the way do you have any pictures of your tuck?

I'll snap some pics of mine in a few days, I have a few things I'm still moving around to make it more appealing to the eye.

As for the fusebox, mine is simply placed right underneath the heater and all that. I fabbed up a bracket for it. It is somewhat visible if you are looking under the glovebox or at the floor, but hell, I really don't care.

If you have any questions on the wiring for the fusebox (I found this kinda confusing) I can help ya... I spent about $50 in materials to relocate my fusebox and battery.


Also..

Just heard from the machine shop. My rods came in yesterday. I have to take the clutch up to the shop on Monday, then the engine will be assembled and balanced & blueprinted.
 
Lol, F-Body = Camraro/Firebird.

5 speed GT's will turn low 14's outa the box, but atuo F-Bodies with turn mid 13's outa the box. Intake and headers will put you in high 12's, again with an auto. Nitrous can get you into the low 12's. Still, at this point, the worst youve done is replace the intake manifold with another stock one. That is, if the car is '98-00' if its 01/02 you dont even hafta do that. And its still dead nuts reliable too. All for maybe 11k, maybe.
 
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