vtecsir1
Senior Member
Been awhile since I did one of these but the lsvtec was just getting tired and not getting it done so it was time for a change. I bought my wife a 2009 civic si 4 door which is a bad mofo in my opinion stock so im stuck with the 95 cx for another few years, oh well its been 7 years almost anyway in this car so its just one of those I cant part with it things.....maybe ever. I worked at Enterprise a few years ago and drove every normal car there is and when I got in my honda at the end of the day I was like all those cars suck compared to my car. Luckily I dont work there anymore and make way better money in the Stock Market trading Options. I just have a connection with this car I cant explain, some of you may know what I mean. I could drive/buy a new car additionally to the car I got my wife but honestly out side of highend cars there is nothing impressive to me worth the money. Maybe a Genesis or STI but I like no payments and owning a house. So on with the budget build sorta budget.
Goals:
That the Motor works!
close to 200whp
reliable daliy driver, fun car for track events like hpde and mini prixs
Skunk2 Pro 1+ cams - still need
Skunk2 Cam Gears - still need
Supertech dual valve springs and aluminum retainers
Streetport+polish
FPR
Phearable basemap, I will bite the 5 bills and have John Vega tune it because he is the only one I trust in the Orlando/Tampa area to tune my Honda.
tri y replica header t 2.5 test pipe, ws noir exhaust.
intake is a comptech drop in with aluminum pipe from tb to drop into integra airbox.
aebs intake manifold with hondata im gasket
im going to try and pick up some rc 310 injectors used
Im also bidding on a vafc to lean out the fuel at idle for the cams plus it looks cool lol until i get it to tampa for the tune, dyno, street tune John offers.
this will all be mated to my itr flywheel and usdm itr transmission I bought new a couple years ago. clutch is a 6 puck sprung made by action.
I transferred over my new/used 30k vtec oil and water pumps. I also purchased several brand new bolts and nuts for the build which you will see at some point.
Im so close now i just need the cams and gear, debating buying some used in great cndition or just dropping the 800 for new pro1s and bloax gears maybe unless some of my offers go through on h-t.
On to the pics of the beginning, be patient I have slowly been building this.
ITR TB I got for $50 shipped not bad. 66 mm tapered to 62mm
New style LMA not the prelude washer shit or the NSX LMA i paid stupid money with 10 percent off at a local dealer and they shipped to my house for free which was cool of them.
Supertech aluminum retainers and specially degreed keepers....do not buy these!
LOL I know it was to keep track of my head but I liked this
street port from cw pence and valve job in orlando/maitland fl, good guys....you can see the bronze guides I went with
KMS extended intake studs from king motor sports
Supertech black nitride race vales for a lil bump in compression for my gsr head
So I didnt really take too many pics because my wife wouldn't shoot for me and she has the nice camera but I got few off of me working on the block.
I bought the block for $600 bucks from an old friend with usdm type r pistons that was supposedly rebuilt recently. Well the bearing farthest from the oil pump looked liked it had a little gauling on it so I was like fuk it for 60 bucks im going to replace them all. Turns out all bearings were perfect but that one but being anal I just replaced them all anyway with a clearance of .0015in which about perfect. Main bearings were cherry so i just coated the with some permatex asssembly lube{good shite about 6 bucks at advance auto}as well as all other bearings and moving parts will be coated with this as well as mobil 1 syn once its time for startup.
On with more:
I have the console so this will fit nicely where the ashtray goes and lighter since i dont smoke.
AEM wideband, as you can see I have made a rough template to cut and then slightly sand down to spec to fit.
I also have water and oil temp gauges fitted o the console
Whos that douche oh yeah thats me popping the tang on the bearing.
always gotta give props to phearable, never let me down
cheap russel fuel line just to give me a little more room since my stock line seemed short and stretched to fit around the intake. Also shown is a new gsr timing belt, why not for the piece of mind and a cost of 40 bucks.
190ph walbro pump and some brand new bolts and dowel pins.
oh yeah i painted my hatch white in my garage, came out ok, needs wetsanding and buffing and for me to do the engine bay and door jams, trunk area no biggie.
Semi used usdm itr pistons, walls looked good so i didnt mess with them.
corrosion sucks, dont just run water in hot states atleast run water wetter too to keep calcium off the cylinder walls.
As you can see here Ireplaced the water pipe and replaced all new hoses. you can alo notice the z10 plug and fittings for an endyn breather setup. I replaced the thermostat and also added the street morroso oilpan with built in oil baffle. for the money not a bad pick up.
Internal areas
You may be saying WTF are those hoses doing?? well when you replace the bearing without removing the piston there is a chance you could scratch the crank when pushing the rod down to get out the bearing so that is a cheap easy way to do it. Make sure when you push them down that you have your other hand holding that piston from the bottom so its doesnt fall out, that way you dont have to redo the rings.
Just to share how you go about picking bearings granted your crank is not sol!
take the number {3 is highlighted because that was what mine were}from the rod and then correlate with the letters on the crank which are very simple to find. In my case it was brown, brown, brown, Green.
Goals:
That the Motor works!
close to 200whp
reliable daliy driver, fun car for track events like hpde and mini prixs
Skunk2 Pro 1+ cams - still need
Skunk2 Cam Gears - still need
Supertech dual valve springs and aluminum retainers
Streetport+polish
FPR
Phearable basemap, I will bite the 5 bills and have John Vega tune it because he is the only one I trust in the Orlando/Tampa area to tune my Honda.
tri y replica header t 2.5 test pipe, ws noir exhaust.
intake is a comptech drop in with aluminum pipe from tb to drop into integra airbox.
aebs intake manifold with hondata im gasket
im going to try and pick up some rc 310 injectors used
Im also bidding on a vafc to lean out the fuel at idle for the cams plus it looks cool lol until i get it to tampa for the tune, dyno, street tune John offers.
this will all be mated to my itr flywheel and usdm itr transmission I bought new a couple years ago. clutch is a 6 puck sprung made by action.
I transferred over my new/used 30k vtec oil and water pumps. I also purchased several brand new bolts and nuts for the build which you will see at some point.
Im so close now i just need the cams and gear, debating buying some used in great cndition or just dropping the 800 for new pro1s and bloax gears maybe unless some of my offers go through on h-t.
On to the pics of the beginning, be patient I have slowly been building this.
ITR TB I got for $50 shipped not bad. 66 mm tapered to 62mm
New style LMA not the prelude washer shit or the NSX LMA i paid stupid money with 10 percent off at a local dealer and they shipped to my house for free which was cool of them.
Supertech aluminum retainers and specially degreed keepers....do not buy these!
LOL I know it was to keep track of my head but I liked this
street port from cw pence and valve job in orlando/maitland fl, good guys....you can see the bronze guides I went with
KMS extended intake studs from king motor sports
Supertech black nitride race vales for a lil bump in compression for my gsr head
So I didnt really take too many pics because my wife wouldn't shoot for me and she has the nice camera but I got few off of me working on the block.
I bought the block for $600 bucks from an old friend with usdm type r pistons that was supposedly rebuilt recently. Well the bearing farthest from the oil pump looked liked it had a little gauling on it so I was like fuk it for 60 bucks im going to replace them all. Turns out all bearings were perfect but that one but being anal I just replaced them all anyway with a clearance of .0015in which about perfect. Main bearings were cherry so i just coated the with some permatex asssembly lube{good shite about 6 bucks at advance auto}as well as all other bearings and moving parts will be coated with this as well as mobil 1 syn once its time for startup.
On with more:
I have the console so this will fit nicely where the ashtray goes and lighter since i dont smoke.
AEM wideband, as you can see I have made a rough template to cut and then slightly sand down to spec to fit.
I also have water and oil temp gauges fitted o the console
Whos that douche oh yeah thats me popping the tang on the bearing.
always gotta give props to phearable, never let me down
cheap russel fuel line just to give me a little more room since my stock line seemed short and stretched to fit around the intake. Also shown is a new gsr timing belt, why not for the piece of mind and a cost of 40 bucks.
190ph walbro pump and some brand new bolts and dowel pins.
oh yeah i painted my hatch white in my garage, came out ok, needs wetsanding and buffing and for me to do the engine bay and door jams, trunk area no biggie.
Semi used usdm itr pistons, walls looked good so i didnt mess with them.
corrosion sucks, dont just run water in hot states atleast run water wetter too to keep calcium off the cylinder walls.
As you can see here Ireplaced the water pipe and replaced all new hoses. you can alo notice the z10 plug and fittings for an endyn breather setup. I replaced the thermostat and also added the street morroso oilpan with built in oil baffle. for the money not a bad pick up.
Internal areas
You may be saying WTF are those hoses doing?? well when you replace the bearing without removing the piston there is a chance you could scratch the crank when pushing the rod down to get out the bearing so that is a cheap easy way to do it. Make sure when you push them down that you have your other hand holding that piston from the bottom so its doesnt fall out, that way you dont have to redo the rings.
Just to share how you go about picking bearings granted your crank is not sol!
take the number {3 is highlighted because that was what mine were}from the rod and then correlate with the letters on the crank which are very simple to find. In my case it was brown, brown, brown, Green.
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