My new 2010 Subaru WRX

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wow man that's crazy!!! I have to agree the older subies had issues but a 2010? even with that mileage it shouldn't have blown a gasket...or 2. either way, i've seen our tech work on them and taking the motor is super easy and can be done in a few hours and put back in and fired up.

18psi is still safe on the car...either way. best of luck and glad you're getting it fixed right.

cylinder 4 rings is the common problem I see if one isn't careful.
 
rotella T6 is awesome stuff and based on oil analysis it's proven to stand the test of stree.
2.0 with 18g 23psi on e85 Subie was still ticking even after I took over the turbo setup.

I ran that on mine until this recent build...now i run motul and waiting for the first oil change so i can send out an oil sample
 
overview

2010 WRX 103,000 miles
always used 5w30 oil, changed every 3k at the dealer (whatever they use)
K&N drop in air filter since 30,000 miles
Running stage 2 since 84,000 miles
-COBB catted downpipe
-COBB OTS stage 2 map
-Spearco TMIC
i drive "spiritedly" pretty much every day. i dont beat on it or abuse it, but i dont drive around like grandma either. full target boost and WOT regularly.


OK, so as I've mentioned previously, I was getting some overheating issues. which after some research and logical deduction, determined to be failed headgasket. So i scheduled up with IAG to get a headgasket replacement and 105k service (timing belt and water pump, etc). I ultimately decided to have them just rebuild the entire bottom end with forged pistons, new bearings, etc. that way i wont have to worry about a broken ring land in the future.

so heres a shot of the failed gasket:

image_1_1.jpeg


pretty obvious failure. the combustion pressure was pushing into the coolant just as i suspected from the symptoms. luckily, even though the car did slightly overheat, IAG cleared the heads with a clean bill of health and said no resurface or rebuild was necessary. the cylinder walls were also still in excellent condition. no visable damage from the failed HG. you can also see that the failure was ONLY in the water jacket, and did not cause any oil/water mixing. the oil looked fine and clean the day i checked it before taking it up to IAG. no (or very little) coolant was getting into the combustion chamber.

next lets look at how the bearings have held up:

image_2_1.jpeg


left to right: main bearing, rod bearing upper, rod bearing lower.

as you can see, the main bearings look perfect (they all look like that), and the lower portion of the rod bearings are in good condition as well. however the upper bearing is showing signs of slight detonation. half of all of the rod bearings look like that. im sure the detonation is due to the OTS cobb stage 2 map. IAGs builder assured me that this was NOT an oiling issue at all, as evidenced by the lack of wear on the main bearings or the other half of the rod bearings. Im glad i decided to have IAG just tear it all down, the rod bearings (well the top half) would have eventually worn down.

new motor will have a protune for sure.

everything I'm getting done:

R&R Engine, Disassemble, Blueprint, Reassemble
Bore/Hone block
Manley 99.75mm forged pistons
ACL race main and rod bearings
ARP head studs
Killer-B oil pickup tube
Injector Dynamics 1000cc
Grimmspeed 3-port EBCS
Full-Race header (i had this already, they are reassembling with it)
COBB intake (i had this already, they are reassembling with it)
Mishimoto radiator
105k Service
-Gates racing timing belt
-new water pump, thermostat, gaskets, seals, etc.
Exedy Stage 1 clutch
Pro-tune @ IAG

most of this stuff i was going to do anyway. and i figured i would take this opportunity to knock out all the big stuff while they had the motor apart anyway. itll save me a ton of work (and labor cost) down to road for when/if i decide to add more power mods. and again, the bearings needed it anyway.
 
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wow. im jealous of this build. lol.

whats the end cost on all of that?

Well, since the shop is doing all the work... About 7000, not including the cost of the f-r header ($800) or the intake (200) that I already had
 
For now. Maybe like 325-350. I'm pretty limited by the stock turbo.

But the good thing is that when I want to up power later, I can just slap on a new turbo and retune. I won't need to change anything else.
 
^ He wouldn't understand. Then, he'd copy the pictures over to another server and claim the build to be his own....

Now that you mention it, I saw this little ditty while in MD last week on business on my way down to Lexington - figured it was DildoState in another "soon to be famous" build.....

frlw.jpg


o5ow.jpg
 
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^ He wouldn't understand. Then, he'd copy the pictures over to another server and claim the build to be his own....

Now that you mention it, I saw this little ditty while in MD last week on business on my way down to Lexington - figured it was DildoState in another "soon to be famous" build.....

Uh oh, you got pulled into Lexington? I guess not uh oh, more :thumbsup:

And that car actually looks pretty clean other than the giant wheels.
 
:werd:
not a clapped out shit box like dickskate tends to roll with... the paint is shiny, the hood is on, the wheels are a bit out of place but really thats not a horrible car
 
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