My new 2010 Subaru WRX
- Thread starter GSRCRXsi
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Figured I'd update on what's been going on recently.
car now has 103,xxx miles on it.
still need new tires, but im stretching that out until winter time, when ill swap tires/suspension and get an alignment again anyway. If i can make it that long, I will just buy new summer tires during the winter. thats the ideal plan.
so with having this many miles, im approaching the 105k service. which is primarily a timing belt / water pump service replacement. not long ago, i started noticing the car overheating intermittently. it only seemed to happen when stopped on an incline, but started to occur more frequently. Initially i thought this was related to something failing in the cooling system; sticking thermostat, failing water pump, air bubble. but the 105k service would wipe all those out as the cause anyway.
until last week when the car was overheating much more easily and much more frequently, i started to look closer at it. i noticed the coolant was orange and the level was very low. i topped it off with water and that seemed to put the overheating issue at bay. driving it again, the coolant would again become low. i narrowed it down to coolant being puked out through the coolant overflow reservoir.
eureka, car is over heating, caused by low coolant, caused by being pushed out the overflow. but whats causing that? the orange coolant was my smoking gun. while orange coolant does exist, the car has only ever had green coolant and water added.
so the coolant is being contaminated but combustion gasses (lots of bubbles coming out of the overflow right after driving) and maybe a touch of oil. yup, i need a headgasket, or two.
Soooo, my 105k service is turning into a 105k service + new aluminum radiator + headgasket replacment + ARP head studs.
IAG will be performing all of the work, and luckily all of the labor overlaps so i wont be dinged too much. im looking at about $3k for the whole job, performed by one of the best Subaru specialty shops in the industry.
FWIW, head gaskets are a common failure for subarus in the first place. and ive increased the boost pressure with my stage 2 flash (14.5psi -> 18psi), and i do have fun with it, but i wouldnt consider it "beating on it" or "abuse". its just a LOT of work to replace the headgaskets, because of the engine design, the entire motor has to be removed from the car to get it done. which adds a lot of labor.
but even at that price, it is super worth it for me to have IAG perform this, rather than me doing it myself. they have more knowledge of subaru engine connections than i do at this time, and they are more well equipped to handle things that go wrong than i would in the shop that i have access to.
appointment scheduled for mid next week. car is parked and im not driving it until i get it up there. hoping to have it back on the road and good as new by early week of sept 23rd.
car now has 103,xxx miles on it.
still need new tires, but im stretching that out until winter time, when ill swap tires/suspension and get an alignment again anyway. If i can make it that long, I will just buy new summer tires during the winter. thats the ideal plan.
so with having this many miles, im approaching the 105k service. which is primarily a timing belt / water pump service replacement. not long ago, i started noticing the car overheating intermittently. it only seemed to happen when stopped on an incline, but started to occur more frequently. Initially i thought this was related to something failing in the cooling system; sticking thermostat, failing water pump, air bubble. but the 105k service would wipe all those out as the cause anyway.
until last week when the car was overheating much more easily and much more frequently, i started to look closer at it. i noticed the coolant was orange and the level was very low. i topped it off with water and that seemed to put the overheating issue at bay. driving it again, the coolant would again become low. i narrowed it down to coolant being puked out through the coolant overflow reservoir.
eureka, car is over heating, caused by low coolant, caused by being pushed out the overflow. but whats causing that? the orange coolant was my smoking gun. while orange coolant does exist, the car has only ever had green coolant and water added.
so the coolant is being contaminated but combustion gasses (lots of bubbles coming out of the overflow right after driving) and maybe a touch of oil. yup, i need a headgasket, or two.
Soooo, my 105k service is turning into a 105k service + new aluminum radiator + headgasket replacment + ARP head studs.
IAG will be performing all of the work, and luckily all of the labor overlaps so i wont be dinged too much. im looking at about $3k for the whole job, performed by one of the best Subaru specialty shops in the industry.
FWIW, head gaskets are a common failure for subarus in the first place. and ive increased the boost pressure with my stage 2 flash (14.5psi -> 18psi), and i do have fun with it, but i wouldnt consider it "beating on it" or "abuse". its just a LOT of work to replace the headgaskets, because of the engine design, the entire motor has to be removed from the car to get it done. which adds a lot of labor.
but even at that price, it is super worth it for me to have IAG perform this, rather than me doing it myself. they have more knowledge of subaru engine connections than i do at this time, and they are more well equipped to handle things that go wrong than i would in the shop that i have access to.
appointment scheduled for mid next week. car is parked and im not driving it until i get it up there. hoping to have it back on the road and good as new by early week of sept 23rd.
man, not very common for the turbo blocks to blow the head gaskets.
but, i guess it does happen.
its really not too bad doing it yourself. mines not a turbo, but getting the engine in and out is very simple with the design.
im sure the turbo adds a few steps, but overall the same. i love that the trans and axles dont have to be touched.
but, if i could afford it, i would pay somebody else to do it, mainly bc i dont enjoy working on cars anymore.
but, i guess it does happen.
its really not too bad doing it yourself. mines not a turbo, but getting the engine in and out is very simple with the design.
im sure the turbo adds a few steps, but overall the same. i love that the trans and axles dont have to be touched.
but, if i could afford it, i would pay somebody else to do it, mainly bc i dont enjoy working on cars anymore.
buy a subaru, insert new headgaskets at the same time as you do the 2nd t-belt change. it is required maintenance.
Once it's fixed, it'll go another 100k 
Sucks about your tranny. I'm surprised. The 6sps are usually bullet proof, especially at stock-ish power. I've never had any problems or grinds with my tranny that wasn't my fault (ie, letting the clutch out too soon, before the gears engaged)
Dudes always preach about running this or that "cocktail" tranny fluid. I've run straight Motul 75w-90, changed every 30k for it's whole life and it's been perfect.
Sucks about your tranny. I'm surprised. The 6sps are usually bullet proof, especially at stock-ish power. I've never had any problems or grinds with my tranny that wasn't my fault (ie, letting the clutch out too soon, before the gears engaged)
Dudes always preach about running this or that "cocktail" tranny fluid. I've run straight Motul 75w-90, changed every 30k for it's whole life and it's been perfect.
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yeah, even andrewtech has stated that the cocktail is intended for people having issues.
but some people think itll make the tranny last longer or something. they swear up and down that youll blow up the tranny if you dont do what they say. just like they swear up and down that you'll spin a bearing if you run 5w30. i love proving them wrong. (103k on 5w30) though im going to switch to M1 0w40 from now on.
but some people think itll make the tranny last longer or something. they swear up and down that youll blow up the tranny if you dont do what they say. just like they swear up and down that you'll spin a bearing if you run 5w30. i love proving them wrong. (103k on 5w30) though im going to switch to M1 0w40 from now on.
from walmart here:
M1 0w40 = $24.xx in a 5qt jug
T-6 5w40 = $21.xx (1gal) + $6.xx (1qt)
so M1 0w40 is cheaper and gets GREAT reviews
i think T6 gets a little better reviews, but M1 0w40 is up there. just make sure you get the 0w40. apparently it's additives are much different that the other weights, like 5w30.
but my overall point was that if youre not racing, you really dont NEED 40 weight oil. ive run over 100k on 5w30 and my motor hasnt blown up from it like the brodudes over on NASIOC would like to claim.
M1 0w40 = $24.xx in a 5qt jug
T-6 5w40 = $21.xx (1gal) + $6.xx (1qt)
so M1 0w40 is cheaper and gets GREAT reviews
i think T6 gets a little better reviews, but M1 0w40 is up there. just make sure you get the 0w40. apparently it's additives are much different that the other weights, like 5w30.
but my overall point was that if youre not racing, you really dont NEED 40 weight oil. ive run over 100k on 5w30 and my motor hasnt blown up from it like the brodudes over on NASIOC would like to claim.
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