The white-mess, my EM1 Si with a d16y8.

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Do you vac the system down as well?
Impressive to see actual gauges and not just a can of 134a and a fill hose.
Not sure why I would expect anything less from you though. :thumbsup:
Yeah, I drew it down to like 300 microns (29.9"), then put 12oz in it. I can't put more in until I get it running. Gotta run the compressor to get all 16oz of 134a in it. But this lets me whip out the uv light and sniffer to actually check for leaks before I get the turbo in and things get really tight in the engine bay.

I've been licensed to do HVAC for a while now, I think four years? Someone pissed me off a while back so I sat for the exams: master HVAC and automotive HVAC.
So, three hours more of work on it, and now I've got the following done:
Breather hoses made and hooked up, to the block and the head.
Short shifter installed, shift linkage almost installed.
Main power (0/2) and alternator (4) wires run through the firewall, hydraulic crimped ends on them in the engine bay, and run to the trunk.
Engine bay fuse for the alternator feed done.

Battery connections in trunk
Wideband, boost, oil pressure, oil temp gauges
Ethanol content sensor wiring (maybe...)
Boost solenoid (which needs to find a new home somewhere)
Vacuum interior and then seat reinstall
bleed clutch
shift linkage pin
fresh gas


So, oops.

Apparently I didn't assemble the oil pump correctly. The oil pump cover, wasn't tightened down correctly.


Therefore, it doesn't build oil pressure.

I filled the pump with dilectric grease and then shot it with shop air to see what was going on. Here's what's happening:

So, yeah. Do I:
1. Try to remove everything in chassis
2. pull the engine and transmission

Honda says it's just 9 steps to replace the oil pump!

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OK, so that was a lot of work, but only took a few hours.

I got the oil pan off, supported the engine, and took the driver side mounts off.


Then, pulled the belts all off, lower timing cover, crank sensor, and timing belt.

Finally, got the pump out.


And saw that I forgot to tighten the screws literally at all... :/

So, got it all back together, and actually torqued it this time.



Aaaand, while putting the valve cover on, naturally, this happened.


But, left handed drill bits to the rescue!



Last night, after the thrash, I went to crank it, and discovered that I didn't have enough battery to crank. :( So I left it on the charger and went inside.

This afternoon, after I got done with working from home, I checked it:

26 pounds of oil pressure, it actually got up to 28, all while cranking. I think this'll do.

Now, left to do:
Finish battery relocation
Wire gauges
Reinstall the ECU
Vacuum the carpet
Reinstall the seats
Put on a new exhaust gasket
Reinstall downpipe and exhaust
Fill with coolant
Reinstall Bumper
Reinstall Hood
drive it to the gas station to get fresh e85

Then, I'll put the boost control solenoid on and start getting boost control dialed in.
Yeah, I think it's a year tomorrow. I want to have it done by the time I start my new job on the 13th, so I'm gonna be doing a lot of work here in the next week.
I need a new pipe for the turbo inlet, it never really fit well, but it doesn't fit any better now with the stiffer mounts.


No pictures until @Briansol tells me what the photo max size is.
interesting... it looks like when i upgraded to php 7.3, the default php.ini file came with it, the one from 7.2 didn't upsert..

default is 2mb

i updated it to 16mb ont he server and 8mb in the software.
I finished up the battery re-location. Bolted into the chassis and vented outside.


The only sketchy part is the switch "bracket" and "shroud". I'll fabricate something later.



I've still gotta figure out the remote cut-off part... I'm not 100% sure how to do that, but at least I have some options. Apparently the track a couple miles away wants PUSH to turn off, not pull, so aircraft cable isn't going to work. :(
Horrible glare from my lights in the shop, but the gauges are all in, wired, and tested.


One of the cool things with the Innovate Motorsports PSB-1 is that in addition to displaying AFR and Boost, it has a relay you can wire in so it can serve as a failsafe in the event of a boost or afr runaway. I have it setup to remove power from my boost control solenoid so that it will just run off wastegate.

The boost solenoid I have is a MAC DBBA, but I think it's fake, because it doesn't have a gasket separating the solenoid portion from the valve portion, and thus, leaks. Otherwise, I'd be done with this... I'm going to plumb it like this again, but I think I'm going to just buy a SpeedFactory solenoid.


So close.

Left to do:
Reinstall the ECU (and throw a base tune on it)
Wire up ethanol content sensor
Reinstall the seats (passenger one is in)
Fill with coolant
Reinstall Bumper
Reinstall Hood
Drive it to the gas station to get fresh e85
Got a base tune on the ECU, but I need to lengthen the datalogging wires a little bit first. I built this cool little arduino-based ISR logging project. The white balance is messed up because my lamp overhead is very warm (3300k) and it's not really that blue looking. It's actually a white character display.

URL here for the 3d prints and parts list: 20x4 LCD bezel for a 99 Civic (eCTune Datalogging Protocol) by awptickes

It shows info, and when I flip the switch off, it turns off the datalogger display, and then I can use bluetooth to connect using a laptop, phone, or tablet.



I also hooked up my counterfeit MAC valve, got it T'd into the boost control line from the manifold (eventually I'll move it to the turbo outlet), and plugged it in.