Taco's Crx type R build

[Taco15]

The obd2 injectors were wired without and with resistors to see if anything changed and still nothing.

originally they were without the resistor and while they had power they still would not spray.
I yanked the harness out and going to redo it to clean up and double check the wiring to make sure i didn't miss a ground or power somewhere.

AND with a EG half radiator i realized the RMF header will not fit. I could make it work but don't think the engine bay would look good.
So after it fires up I may have to look for another header. possibly a bisimoto,hytec, replica any thoughts?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hond...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hond...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[Dual-500]

I've not done anything with electronic injectors. But, I have many years with logic, and integrated electronic systems.

How they probably work is something called PCM or Pulse Code Modulation. In other words they vary the "On" time per cycle to adjust mixture.

How the injectors most likely trigger is a 12v or "High" is applied to them all the time on one pin, and the other pin floats connected to the ECU. Then, to trigger the injector they drop a "Low" on the floating pin connected to the ECU.

So, with a voltmeter they should have fixed voltage - probably 12v, but it could be 5v on one pin and the other pin varies between 12v or 5v and ground when the injector "Fires".

Lemme check schematic.

Nope - interesting. Ass backwards like most automotive electrical. They ground one end of the injector circuit and the other runs to the ECU. As such, it will get a positive voltage pulse to fire.

The pulses to trigger the injector will be of short duration and it may take a scope to view them.

That probably doesn't help you at all!

 

[eg6sir]

what fan do you have? is a slim fan? or will it still hit?

 

[Taco15]

I've not done anything with electronic injectors. But, I have many years with logic, and integrated electronic systems.

How they probably work is something called PCM or Pulse Code Modulation. In other words they vary the "On" time per cycle to adjust mixture.

How the injectors most likely trigger is a 12v or "High" is applied to them all the time on one pin, and the other pin floats connected to the ECU. Then, to trigger the injector they drop a "Low" on the floating pin connected to the ECU.

So, with a voltmeter they should have fixed voltage - probably 12v, but it could be 5v on one pin and the other pin varies between 12v or 5v and ground when the injector "Fires".

Lemme check schematic.

Nope - interesting. Ass backwards like most automotive electrical. They ground one end of the injector circuit and the other runs to the ECU. As such, it will get a positive voltage pulse to fire.

The pulses to trigger the injector will be of short duration and it may take a scope to view them.

That probably doesn't help you at all!

nope but it was useful knowledge

EG. the slim fan is what I will use. RIght now the header is literally 1/4 from the middle brace just under the hood latch. the width of the radiator would need to be 12'' or so. That's the least of my worries though. I need to get this damn car fired up!

 

[invisibledemon]

sure the distributor is sending the signal to the injectors?

they may be getting constant power from the battery, but the dizzy is what tells them when to actually fire.

and im no where near positive on this, i have very limited experience trying to diagnose why an injector isnt working, but should the injector ever get constant power? i thought they were grounded and only got the power signal when it was time to spray, and no other time.

 

[Taco15]

sure the distributor is sending the signal to the injectors?

they may be getting constant power from the battery, but the dizzy is what tells them when to actually fire.

and im no where near positive on this, i have very limited experience trying to diagnose why an injector isnt working, but should the injector ever get constant power? i thought they were grounded and only got the power signal when it was time to spray, and no other time.

That sir is a very good question. I remember matching up the wires on the harness and somewhere i read that the ecu has to be re-pinned. can't remember.
I was under the impression that they all got their power upon turn ACC (hence the initial spray) and after startup they recieved the pulses.
I also though they all had to have a ground as well. When checking them with a test light one of each injector wire had power. when reversed, non of them seemed to be grounded.

 

[Taco15]

either way the harness is laying in my living room again and so far i found the IACV wire disconnected. i'm researching to see why one of the wires is hooked up with a black/yellow wire
I guess it's the ground. the plug i;m talking about is in the middle.

that seems to be a ground, the other blue wire goes to the same plug the injector clips go with(blue wire).

 

[Dual-500]

The other post contained a thought flow that went something like this: The pulses to the injectors may or may not show up on a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) or VOM (Analog Volt Meter). So, if you don't have a scope you probably can't check for signal. Prolly should have followed through a bit more.

There are 3 conditions will cause otherwise good injectors to not correctly function. 1) No fuel pressure or inadequate fule pressure, 2) no signal from the ECU, 3) an open ground.

You are looking at the harness - good choice.

They operate via PWM or Pulse Width Modulation which pre-dates PCM or Pulse Code Modulation. The "On" time for the injector via the pulse width over time is vaired.

 

[UNDR8D]

Did someone shorten this thing? The welding where the pipes meet the flange is quite suspect. It looks like amateur MIG welding at best. I believe RMF headers are all TIG welded. You can see where they ground the weld to give the bolt/nut head clearance. Maybe I missed this part of the thread.

 

[Dual-500]

Did someone shorten this thing? The welding where the pipes meet the flange is quite suspect. It looks like amateur MIG welding at best. I believe RMF headers are all TIG welded. You can see where they ground the weld to give the bolt/nut head clearance. Maybe I missed this part of the thread.

For real. Where are the other studs & retaining nuts?

 

[Taco15]

that was just a mock up. The guy I bought it from had it on his car and from rumors he never had it correctly supported with the right hangers.

as a result the weight of the runner being so far out ended up cracking the welds. He took it to his friend and had it "welded" and that brace added. It looked like shit and bubble gum chunks so I took it to someone else who grinded down the crap and made some more welds. he then grinded the excess.

my opinion: looks like garbage and header is crap. even if it makes alot of power It still looks like crap in what I want to be a clean engine bay.

thanks for the pics though. as you can see that bitch is wayyyyyyy long.

 

[Taco15]

after re-reading the advices I'm gonna check out the wiring to the injectors and Dizzy once again.

I have a feeling I missed something there......

 

[UNDR8D]

that was just a mock up. The guy I bought it from had it on his car and from rumors he never had it correctly supported with the right hangers.

as a result the weight of the runner being so far out ended up cracking the welds. He took it to his friend and had it "welded" and that brace added. It looked like shit and bubble gum chunks so I took it to someone else who grinded down the crap and made some more welds. he then grinded the excess.

my opinion: looks like garbage and header is crap. even if it makes alot of power It still looks like crap in what I want to be a clean engine bay.

thanks for the pics though. as you can see that bitch is wayyyyyyy long.

I can build you a nice stainless 100% TIG header for $500... but srsly. I can...

 

[Dual-500]

after re-reading the advices I'm gonna check out the wiring to the injectors and Dizzy once again.

I have a feeling I missed something there......

Do you have a voltmeter? If so, check for continuity in the wires - from distributor to the ECU. Check grounds, and fuses too.

 

[Taco15]

no on the volt meter.

grounds were iffy so i'm double checking those in the harness and making sure to label when re-installing.
fuses were all good in the box and dash.

if anyone can help with diagrams please do. All I could find on the plugs I need is this one plug attached.

If anyone knows the other 2 plugs and their wires please chime in.

 

[Taco15]

someone please save this write up.
holy crap I think I found my check list for my work.
Civic EG :: View topic - OBD1 Engine harness plug and wire list.....
Now if i can find pics that would top it off

 

[phunky.buddha]

Service manual?

 

[fionntan]

someone please save this write up.
holy crap I think I found my check list for my work.
Civic EG :: View topic - OBD1 Engine harness plug and wire list.....
Now if i can find pics that would top it off

Wow I think that is the only useful thing on that site.

 

[Taco15]

yeah I've googling like crazy for those plugs and their wires with no luck.

This is the closest thing.
Service manual really wasnt much help and ive browsed it 3 times. but I'll look again.

I'm gonna finish the harness and clean it up one last time and be done with it. If I loose my head with it I'm just gonna order the rywire.
love it but DAMN it's expensive.
Rywire : Mil-Spec Tucked B-Series harness - $599.00

 

[civicej1h22]

so if im not geting pulse it could be my dizzy or a prob wit my ecu i got a h22 wit ecu in a ej1 im getting feul to my injector an spark an i tried a noid ligh the light didnt flash im stuck here idk if a wired coul of got pulled or what