Taco's Crx type R build

[Taco15]

LMK if you run into problems. I can pull engine harness drawings and find out for sure.

ok I need you

could you get me a diagram or pinout of the 3 harness plugs for a obd0?
1 round
1 rectangle
1 small square.

 

[Taco15]

ok. so i was thinking. VTP switch should not exist in the factory harness....no oem vtec.
so what i thought was VTP was really the temp sensor for ecu.

one is a ground - green
the other red/white is signal from small plug. that should fix problem.

 

[99sidude]

ok I need you

could you get me a diagram or pinout of the 3 harness plugs for a obd0?
1 round
1 rectangle
1 small square.

obd0 what? I'll need to know what car the harness is from. There are lots of couplers on any given harness like you described. It would help if you can get a pic of what you are talking about or what the coupler applies to (dizzy, vtec, map, ext...)

 

[Taco15]

working on it cheif

 

[Taco15]

as you can see I'm so close!

 

[Taco15]

Andrew i love you.....
this is my salvation.

 

[Taco15]

how many of these plugs should i have?
i thought 2 but the harness's are telling different.

yellow/grn from rectangle harness is to head for temp sensor
yellow/red from rectangle harness to block for oil pressure.

now i have the harness bove saying i should have another similar plug with the same color somewhere.......

hmmm fan switch maybe?

yes!

UPDATE: got everything done except for extending the injector wires. need more colored wire for this but all in all. I think I'M DONE!

after it hooking it up.
removing tranny to check for weird issue, reinstall axles,header,manifold and should run soon!

 

[Taco15]

finally! the wiring is in and this Sunday I spent some precious time with the crx.
first off I wired it up and plugged everything in to make sure it looked good.
I'm not 100% satisfied but it's clean.

Next I tackled crossmember to make room for the RMF header to fit.

finally the header and manifold.
DAMN that was close!

 

[Taco15]

unfortunatly i have to take the tranny out to see why the lever which engages the clutch isn't moving all the way up. Feels like the throwout bearing is hitting something. It worked flawless before putting it in and the bolted up perfectly..hmmmm

After that i can finish putting power to it to double error codes!

then finally I'll have the axles and misc parts back in the car to drive!

 

[vtecsir1]

That sounds similar to what happened to me one time. The throw out bearing got cock eyed somehow, iopened it up and re set it and it was fine..

 

[Taco15]

yeah i got a feeling that what happened.
sucks.

i'm on grass in the hot ass sun with no help.

 

[vtecsir1]

i hear ya man, i need to get someone to help me get my motor off the stand and all my friends are punks when i need help.

 

[Taco15]

damnit.

so I installed the axle on the drivers side and tackled removing the tranny.
as soon as I broke it loose and lifted on the clutch lever it came off. once it seperated the throw out bearing worked fine. I checked the bearing and it was still attached like it should be.

After mating it back to the block it would'nt move again! WTH.
so does thi mean the clutch or flywheel is incorrect or am i missing something?

 

[B16]

can you take a picture of your clutch fork and TB?

 

[TurboMirage]

i would be curious to see if the fork popped off the ball it sits on.

 

[Taco15]

i'll see if i can take some pics after my mountain bike ride.

it's weird. works great when not attached to the motor.
I'm 99% sure I ordered the right stuff and of course my buddy is an Acura technician and has built his own motor before.

that's the biggest piece missing. after that is simply little parts and wiring.
I'm so ready to hear this thing roar.

 

[Taco15]

well it looks like crap but we got it to fire up with some ether help.

Only check engine code I have is vtec. It isnt plugged up so it's obvious.
Problem is, the injectors are not firing. They all have power when the key is on ACC and the rail is full of fuel.

By the way the Injectors are obd2 (2000 i think) and the clips are the same. We eliminated the resistor box and still no power. We've tried 2 sets of obd2 injectors and planned to use obd1 with resistor box to see if it works.

What other wires or components do you guys know that would keep the injectors from actually working even though they have power? I was thinking a ground wire but it looks like I have all of my grounds in order.

 

[B16]

Have you checked with a multimeter to see that signal is raching the injector? OBD1 are without resistors, I think only OBD0 use the resistors.

 

[Taco15]

Have you checked with a multimeter to see that signal is raching the injector? OBD1 are without resistors, I think only OBD0 use the resistors.

I used a test light and they all lit up.
My assumption was that they were all technically ground too so I reversed the light to see if the other wires lit up and they didn't. I was assuming and trying random stuff.

It's weird because when I was making the harness it was so simple.
4 colored wires for the injectors
4 yellow wires
1 for the IACV

I think that was it. THey went to 1 plug in the bay and the other went to resisitor box. Am I missing one more than went to the ecu or something?

 

[Dual-500]

Have you checked with a multimeter to see that signal is raching the injector? OBD1 are without resistors, I think only OBD0 use the resistors.

That is correct, only OBD0 require the resistor box. OBD1 does not. The OBD1 injectors are high impedance and don't require resistors. So, OBD1 injectors wired with resistors could be the problem and probably is. The resistors could drop enough of the current to prevent the injectors from functioning.