The New Project/Restoration

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

Even H&R race springs go pretty low too.

If you're really worried about the engine I would pull the head and look in there.
 
Even H&R race springs go pretty low too.

If you're really worried about the engine I would pull the head and look in there.

Either way I think im going to anyways and replace the head gasket and stuff while its out.

The H&R's were a little more expensive, but my buddy has em on his M3 and he loves em.
 
And last but not least for now, got my H&R springs in the other day, waiting on the funds to order some new control arms and bushings. How retarded is it that they were one of the only name brands, except Tein, that only used 1.5-2" drops...all the other ones were for slammin your car to the ground.

You aint shit unless your shit is dumped.:D
 
quick question for anyone, when installing my springs on the shocks, if I dont have any type of sleeve for the actual shock rod, is that ok?
 
im inpressed you got the engine and trans out with the axels in place ... i guess they slip out once you get the engine low enough or high enough .. you need new axels for your swap anyways 90-93 teggy are perfect ...

I have some parts, i just totaled a 89 si with a b16a and now im rebuilding a 88 std (dx) but i have extrra parts everywhere when you make your list ill take a look ... im in spokane wa.. and can ship stuff i would sell cheap too. Im hard for build money right now so we could help eachother

I need a b16a vtec oil pressure sensor ..
driver door glass ,,, non si door
 
plus nice buy on the rex lol
i payed 80 for my shell and it was auto ... but a work in progress its running and driving but i need lots more work
 
im inpressed you got the engine and trans out with the axels in place ... i guess they slip out once you get the engine low enough or high enough .. you need new axels for your swap anyways 90-93 teggy are perfect ...

I have some parts, i just totaled a 89 si with a b16a and now im rebuilding a 88 std (dx) but i have extrra parts everywhere when you make your list ill take a look ... im in spokane wa.. and can ship stuff i would sell cheap too. Im hard for build money right now so we could help eachother

I need a b16a vtec oil pressure sensor ..
driver door glass ,,, non si door

I actually pulled the drivers side axel out first then dropped the engine under the car.
 
oh I see lol .. did you get your teggy axels yet for the b series?

and hydro im jelouse of ... where you gonna put your clutch master cylinder? thats the hardest part of hydro ... is the slave cylinder on the trans still or do you have to get that?
 
oh I see lol .. did you get your teggy axels yet for the b series?

and hydro im jelouse of ... where you gonna put your clutch master cylinder? thats the hardest part of hydro ... is the slave cylinder on the trans still or do you have to get that?

Honestly, the only thing on the trans is the speed sensor...lol. Other than that I have to somehow collect all of the other goodies.

And I actually got some axels with the motor, but I have no clue what they go to. So, I will probably just get some new ones. Might as well not cheap out on those
 
I suppose I could, I was trying to stray away from even taking the old ones apart honestly. They are really really rusty and im not too surehow brittle the coils are. Maybe I am being too cautious
 
BAAAHHH!! Alright so I have the drivers side suspension almost all put together. The passenger side(front) is giving me hell. The ball joint will not come out of the seats. I bought a pitman arm puller and everything. What do you guys do to get these off. All three are not coming out (Steering, lower, and control arm). Bash if you would like, but I dont know much about suspension :)
 
Last edited:
If you don't care about the balljoint use a pickle-fork. available at most autoparts stores. it has a tapered 2 prong fork on the end that you hammer in between the arm and the balljoint. I use it all the time on old stuck balljoint. works best with a hand sledge and remember it will damage the boot so you will have to seplace the balljoint after.
 
If you don't care about the balljoint use a pickle-fork. available at most autoparts stores. it has a tapered 2 prong fork on the end that you hammer in between the arm and the balljoint. I use it all the time on old stuck balljoint. works best with a hand sledge and remember it will damage the boot so you will have to seplace the balljoint after.
Thanks! I saw those forks but I wasnt sure how well they work, I even broke one of my sledge hammers trying to get these damn things out. I guess I'll just have to resort to replacing them, which isnt all that bad anyways. I'll keep everyone updated.
 
best way i know is whack the side of the control arms a couple times... comes out easy with no ball joint damage.
 
best way i know is whack the side of the control arms a couple times... comes out easy with no ball joint damage.

I have only had that work if I have replaced the ball joints in the past year or so. I can't tell you how many times I have had that not work. I mean its the reason I bought the pickle-fork in the first place.
 
Back
Top