JDM B20Vtec Build

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Well I won't know til I pull the head. Thats the thing.

Im like 90% its the headgasket because everything points to that.

I was just wondering what the likilhood of a cracked sleeved based on ya'lls experience.
 
It's hard to say whether it's a cracked sleeve because there's no great way of testing it. A compression test will show low numbers and you're also likely to find mixture of oil and coolant. The only way to know for sure is to have a look at the cylinders and to do that you must pull the head.

You need to sit down and think about what you want out of the car. If you don't, you'll continue to chase your tail with these little issues even after you build the other engine. Have a power goal and build the car to meet that power goal plus a safety factor. When you get to tuning the car, undercut your power goal by 20-30 whp and call it a day. It is the only way to ensure some reliability out of a build on one of these cars.
 
Well I DON'T have water in oil and I DON'T have oil in water. Both are clean and there is no contamination.

The head gasket is leaking oil behind the engine underneath the intake manifold and I can see very minute oil seep on cam side at head gasket and under ANY boost pressure it pushes coolant out the radiator through the reserve bottle.

Those symptoms along with having oem headgasket and oem head bolts everything is pointing to headgasket+head float under boost.

Otherwise the engine runs perfect. Not overheating, no smoke, no rough idle, everything is smooth otherwise.

Well we will see soon enough.

I wanted 400whp out of it. But if I make 350whp I will be happy until I finish my other motor.
 
Seems like you are just wasting money and time on this current motor. If it were me I would build the new motor.
 
I'm trying to decide wether to buy cometic, golden eagle, or oem headgasket.

I'm getting mixed responses from people I know.

Any preference and why?
 
Hey all I have an update. I know its been a while.

My sleeves on my b20 cracked. Which I knew they would eventually.

So I'm finally building my sleeved block.

Sending it up north to Victory. They are going to CnC the block and bore it out to a 2.0. They are also going to line hone the mains too. And do the rotating assembly.

The head is getting full PnP, Pro1 cams, 5 angle valve job, and all the valvetrain goodies.

And obviously I will be putting all brand new oem parts on. Like water pump, oil pump and ect.

converting to E85

Upgrading to Hondata COP.

I also want to add hondata traction control setup too.

Can't wait to put her on the dyno.

I'm looking to hit 900whp. But I know we will probably have to turn it down for the street. She will be built to handle over 1200+hp. I over built her on purpose.

She's ganna be a fire breathing monster.
 
welcome back

Thank you bro. I'm going to have 1 of the fastest civics in north fla.

A couple of friends of mine are worried that I'm going to break my transmission.

I have carbon coated syncros, MFactory LSD and LS 5th Gear. Its a GSR Trans. But he's worried I'm going to break the main shaft.

Any opinions?
 
I'm buying a Precision 6266 ballbearing turbo and going to ceramic coat it.

I've read that spool up is great and the power you can make is awesome.

The 2 things I am lacking right now is a good intake manifold and wheels and tires.

I have a crappy skunk2 alpha series intake mani.

I was wondering if I should get a projay or a skunk2 ultra race series and have it pnp and port matched to my b16 head.

Also I'm using my b16 head instead of the gsr head because the b16 has a bigger combustion chamber. And they rev out a little quicker than a gsr.

But the block is a gsr sleeved from inline pro. closed deck and oringed.

Also I've read about buying a 4piston ported oil pump. Is this neccessary? And should I add the oem oil cooler to the gsr block?

What are your thoughts. Any recommendations I appreciate. Thanks!
 
NIce set up. How deep are you into this car?

Thanks bro.

By the time I'm done with the car with everything I've already spent and with what I'm about to spend. I will have approximately $30k in it after the interior is restored and the car is painted and all the motor/mechanical upgrades and changes are completed.

You have to be very dedicated to do a project like this.

This is 7 years in the making.

It all started with a D16Y8 long block from a junkyard with a junkyard turbo.

Once I felt boost from a car that I owned even if it was only 8lbs on a stock block with a ripped street tune I couldn't stop until I figured out the perfect setup I wanted.

After owning the B20Vtec I loved the torque it made. But the cylinder walls are so thin and couldn't put up with the abuse, heat, and the somewhat aggressive tune that was on it.

So from both those prior experiences led me to build a 2.0 liter GSR/B16 high flowing head. So I've got the sleeved gsr block for longevity and strength, manely turbo tuff rods and 10:1 cp pistons, polished gsr crank, and upgraded everything so that I can make almost as much power as I want on the street and not have to worry about it. I kept the B16 head because it has a bigger combustion chamber, once its fully built with a 5 angle valve job, ss ferrera competition plus valves, lma's and pro 1 cams and ect it will flow a lot of air. I'm also buying a skunk2 ultra race 5.5L intake manifold, plenum spacer, throttle body spacer and 90mm throttle body which is going to be cnc pnp and cnc port matched to my B16 head.

2 main reasons for why I built it this way. 1 so I can beat on it and have fun without much stress and 2 because with the way I am building it I will be able to make more power on less boost which will put less stress overall on the motor. I wanted to build it right and build it once.

Victory is going to cnc the block, line hone the mains, put arp main studs in, arp head studs in, cnc pnp the head.

Its going to be a lot of fun once its done. I believe the 6266 ballbearing turbo which I am ceramic coating and chroming the inlet side will be a great match for my setup and for the street.

Btw I am also buying a competition clutch twin disc setup as well. I've read a lot of good reviews on it.

However I'm wondering if I should buy a carbon carbon but who knows.

Can't wait to post some pics and videos once it's complete.

Honda's are a great platform and have a lot of support and are relatively reasonable in price to build but to do it right it still isn't cheap.

But man am I excited.
 
The waiting is killing me. Victory has had my motor 4 days now and I don't believe they've even opened the packages yet. Victory Precision Machine. They seem to do excellent work and have been friendly to deal with.

How long does it take build a block and head. and cnc and pnp all of it?

Thanks. Can't sleep too obsessed and to impatient.
 
Well I got some bummer news today. Victory Precision Machine is backed up. It might be 6 months before they get to my block and head. This is very disappointing.

Getting very hard to wait.
 
They told me they were busy but I didn't realize they were this busy.

I'm going to have to put my money in my savings account. While I wait. Smh. Whats interesting to me is that they have already cnc ported my skunk2 ultra race manifold. But they haven't started work on my motor from what I understand.

But they do have my block and head tho.

I found out there's at least 6 people in front of me that I know of. So we'll see what happens. Just sucks to have to wait that long.
 
I'm buying comp clutch $1100
COP for parts and labor $80
I also got my compressor housing chromed and got a turbo blanket for the exhaust side.

I also changed the wastegate flange on my ramhorm. I will be running a 46mm precision gate. And getting ceramic coated inside and out.

I plan on ceramic coating my downpipe too.

Also been thinking about switching my tuning solution to AEM. but I've read a lot of mixed reviews o. that system.

I figured if I wanted something rreally good I might shoud go Motec.

I was going ask if anyone has had experience with AEM or Motec. I am currently running hondata. Reason I'm looking into those tuning solutions they offer the ability to run a cam trigger kit whichs helps stable resolution, clean idle, and clean revs. It also helps with tuning from what I understand.

Anyway. Any experience sharing, advice and ect would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
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