Brad's CRX Build

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careful with RMF knockoffs.
i sent my header to get repaired and the guy mentioned it possibly being a knock off RMF. :(

the steel is thinner and cracks easily. not to mention repairing them is a bitch.
all of my ports needed to be re-welded.

good luck!
 
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that was before. i still have yet to see it after the repair.


get a bisi header!
 
Post some pics of the cracked header welds. Did it have any support brackets on it or just hang off the exhaust flange?
The factory bracket on the back of the block didn't line up with the B18 or B16, so just hanging off the head for a while. And the LS mani doesn't line up with the B16 bracket either.
careful with RMF knockoffs.
i sent my header to get repaired and the guy mentioned it possibly being a knock off RMF. :(

the steel is thinner and cracks easily. not to mention repairing them is a bitch.
all of my ports needed to be re-welded.

good luck!

This is the header I was looking at - https://hondaswap.com/vendor-classifieds/private-label-mfg-power-driven-headers-h-b-k-series-255706/

It just seems like there are so many other things I need to buy before that. I'll take my time and find what header I wanna use.
 
I hear ya. :lol:

I'll be looking soon if this patch work on my header doesn't last.
It made MAd power on the dyno so I want to keep it.

Why don't you get a Type R manifold? should be plenty of breathing room for a B16 :)
 
Going over the valve lash again.

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My tool. :)

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Spray on stripper on the wheels. Going to try them raw aluminum with polished lip or gold center if I get bored.

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My dads low mileage complete Z6 swap for $350 with ECU. I'm swapping it into his 4 door EF soon.

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I set the valve clearances to 0.006in on the intake side and 0.007in on the exhaust and it still has a weird valvetrain tick. It ticks like 10 times in a row then goes away for a few seconds. And it sounds like it coming from the no. 1 cyl.
 
hmmm. you sure it's in the valvetrain?
maybe a loose cam lifter (?) the thing that opens and closes the valves

Also, check the oil pan for rod caps being either loose or maybe a bearing about to go.
just to make sure the ticking isn't down there.
 
I'm pretty sure the tick is in the head. I jacked it up and its quiet at the oil pan. After that tune up its running awesome now too so I'm just being picky.
 
I think I do that too. I replaced the front ball joint on my car, and I've still got a faint wobble noise that only comes if I shift into 3rd at 3527 RPM every 7th Tuesday. Still bugs the shit outta me.
 
It might just be the normal valvetrain sound. It drove me crazy thinking something was wrong at first with my Si when I replaced the original motor with a JDM B16A, but by every Hondaphile I know I was told it sounded normal.
 
I think I do that too. I replaced the front ball joint on my car, and I've still got a faint wobble noise that only comes if I shift into 3rd at 3527 RPM every 7th Tuesday. Still bugs the shit outta me.
I call BS ! :ph34r:
It might just be the normal valvetrain sound. It drove me crazy thinking something was wrong at first with my Si when I replaced the original motor with a JDM B16A, but by every Hondaphile I know I was told it sounded normal.

Yeah my dad said the same. He said every Honda that gets revved high makes a little valve noise. :dunno:
 
Haha! Yeah mine ticks kinda bad when cold but sounds normal when warmed up.

I stole the IACV from my LS and tuned in the timing and its running stronger than ever before.
 
my LS ticks a little bit, after hours of adjusting the valve lash and busting my knuckles on the VC studs, i said "fuck it, good enough"
i swear it still ticks
but most people that are around the car say its the quietest running built engine theyve ever heard
so yes, it is likely that your engine is fine lol
 
Yeah it's being good and reliable now. I have an oil smell when I stop at lights and stuff. Gonna check the PVC system and replace the valve cover gasket cause I know it's leaking onto the manifold.
 
Someone on HT wanted to know my plans for the car...(which won't happen until I'm big ballin)

-JDM front end
-Fix body / repaint OEM celestial blue
-CRX DX hardtop conversion (I hate my sunroof)
-Descent front brake upgrade (already have stock Si discs with stainless lines, 4040 prop valve and DA Teg booster/master)
-Nice seats (don't know which ones yet, my Si's are good for now)
-JDM cluster
-Build my LS block for LS/V + cams ect to make 200 whp
-B16/GSR/ITR trans w/LSD
-Fresh bushings all around (all of mine are shot) either OEM or Poly
-Camber kits front and rear
-Legit exhaust
-Real wheels (not Drag knock offs) Work Emotions own me right now

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And whatever else I decide or want when the time comes. :)
 
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