Brad's CRX Build

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Unicorn poop....... I bet you guys got a kick out of unicorn poop too right?
 
GlassHeadlights said:
Muthafukkin bitch ass, trick ass, hoe ass, skank ass spark plugs. Installed my new NGKs and NO MORE PROBLEMS PERSIST ! I'm insuring her now !
Click to expand...
Glad you hung in there and didn't give up on it. You kept on working the simple and it turned out to be something simple.

I was thinking that after my last post or two - that it was something simple. Wire connection, sensor, pinhole in vacuum line, etc. I was starting to think in terms of what was different between the two engine installations.

Awesome dude!

Let us know how it runs.
 
Its been good lately. Drives awesome and normal under VTEC and I'm liking the gas mileage, better than ever. VTEC is being testy for me. 60 % of the time it engages properly and takes off HARD, it feels awesome. But the pressure sensor code has come up 3 times and VTEC doesn't engage on the right RPM or sometimes not at all.
 
Think maybe someone needs to clean their screen. If it's engaging at the wrong rpm that probably means there's something to that code.
 
could also be a sticky vtec solenoid...take it off, clean it out, and blow it out with compressed air.... ive had this issue before, and it was a clogged up vtec solenoid...
 
I took it off, cleaned both screens which weren't even bad only a few specs of garbage and swapped out the pressure switch from my old Z6 one. Hopefully its fixed !

Its almost been 1000 kms on the motor too so I want to change the oil and filter. I'm using an OEM Honda filter but what should I use for oil ? I have regular 5w30 now.
 
Last edited:
At least get a synthetic. I run AMSOIL. But that's just my preference.
 
Honda motors run tight clearances and at high RPMs so lubrication is obviously important.

I'm no scientist, so I'll pull this off the wiki.
Synthetics have a controlled molecular structure with predictable properties, unlike mineral base oils which are complex mixtures of naturally occurring hydrocarbons.
  • Measurably better low and high temperature viscosity performance
  • Better chemical & shear stability
  • Decreased evaporative loss
  • Resistance to oxidation, thermal breakdown and oil sludge problems
  • Extended drain intervals with the environmental benefit of less oil waste.
  • Improved fuel economy in certain engine configurations.
  • Better lubrication on cold starts
  • Longer engine life
  • The best protection under extreme temperatures within the engine and the best protection against hot spots for less oil burnoff,
And like I said AMSOIL is just my preference. In my day I've run it, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, and most of the Castrol, Valvoline, QS, and Pennsoil lines. In my personal experience my vehicles ran smoother longer and performed better overall when using it. The vehicles being my Camaro, Civic, and my GSXR-600. My dad also uses it in his 68' El Camino with a very healthy 468BB.

I cannot stress enough that this is from my personal experience and preferences. I dont want to start yet another oil war.
 
double0Si said:
Honda motors run tight clearances and at high RPMs so lubrication is obviously important.

I'm no scientist, so I'll pull this off the wiki.



Synthetics have a controlled molecular structure with predictable properties, unlike mineral base oils which are complex mixtures of naturally occurring hydrocarbons.
  • Measurably better low and high temperature viscosity performance
  • Better chemical & shear stability
  • Decreased evaporative loss
  • Resistance to oxidation, thermal breakdown and oil sludge problems
  • Extended drain intervals with the environmental benefit of less oil waste.
  • Improved fuel economy in certain engine configurations.
  • Better lubrication on cold starts
  • Longer engine life
  • The best protection under extreme temperatures within the engine and the best protection against hot spots for less oil burnoff,
And like I said AMSOIL is just my preference. In my day I've run it, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, and most of the Castrol, Valvoline, QS, and Pennsoil lines. In my personal experience my vehicles ran smoother longer and performed better overall when using it. The vehicles being my Camaro, Civic, and my GSXR-600. My dad also uses it in his 68' El Camino with a very healthy 468BB.

I cannot stress enough that this is from my personal experience and preferences. I dont want to start yet another oil war.
Click to expand...
Not looking for an Oil War here either - genuine interest. Never did it mention Film Strength in the comparison. Any thoughts there?

In the old days we mixed Klotz synthetic with Castor - in fact, I still do for my blower and gokarts. 2 to 1 ratio gives the cool running and clean burning properties of the Klotz synthetic and the film strength from the bean oil. I've also ran it with a Nitromethane/Alcohol fuel mixture in racing two strokes.

Anyway, this relates to Brad's thread and question on oil.

I'm building a motor for my '91 hatch and am seeking experience for oil. Also considering moly coating the bearings when I assemble it.

I've ran Castrol Syntec in the past in domestic engines. What about break-in? Synthetic then also?

Thx
 
Last edited:
double0Si said:
In my day
Click to expand...


in your day?
you're 23, still a child.
today, is your days. lol.

and yes, im only 24, i still think of myself as a child as well. ;)


also, one note to stay on topic here, ensure that you dont have any minor leaks at all on that motor.
the smallest of leaks with dino-oil will become bigger with synthetic.

because of the molecular uniformity of synthetic oil, it will leak out of a small hole quicker than the other.
i just run mobile 1 in the cars i put synthetic in.
 
My dad got told to run Mobil 1 in his S2000. Maybe I'll do the same. No leaks too.

Also after changing the pressure switch VTEC is operating great. :) Just the test of time now.
 
Car is still running flawless and quite powerful. I believe a video is in order. ;) ;)

I also started waxing the front end. Shes gonna look good for the summer.
 
Today I adjusted the valve clearances ( I think one still ticks :( maybe a LMA ), tightened the timing belt, set the timing, and changed the oil for Mobil 1 5W30 and an OEM filter. Feels better and smoother but I still got beat by a stock D16A6 last night. FML. The powerband flat lines from 4000 RPM until VTEC engages, I think I need some tuning...and a B16 tranny.
 
Removed the stupid rubbers over the wheel wells.

Currently trying to get a complete Suspension Techniques 22mm front and rear sway bar kit in exchange for some labor.

I also acquired clean stock knuckles to solve my oversteer. I'm getting Brembo blanks, some sort of pad, ITR calipers and new bushings when I can afford it. :(
 
My used Megan header was leaking, I looked closer and it cracked welds all over. :( So my stock LS one is back on. VTEC sounds ridiculous :lol:. No loss, it probably made no actual power gains, time to move on. The RMF copy headers from the vendor here look good. I also found out where to buy mandrel bent U bends. I'm going to route the exhaust the stock way soon hopefully, my straight pipe is haggard...
 
Post some pics of the cracked header welds. Did it have any support brackets on it or just hang off the exhaust flange?
 
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