Brad's CRX Build

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or you could just buy new weather sealing to go around it.
seems like the cheapest, easiest, proper way of doing it.
 
or you could just buy new weather sealing to go around it.
seems like the cheapest, easiest, proper way of doing it.

this is very true.

looking good man. what s up with the wheels?
I haven't been able to find a set of rims that I like in a CRX but those rims in 16's would be sex for my taste.

how much do those Work wheels go for?
 
or you could just buy new weather sealing to go around it.
seems like the cheapest, easiest, proper way of doing it.
Well its not just the seal. It rains rust flakes on me when its open and it falls off the track every time I open it. I have to push up on it to close it (takes like 3 tries back and forth to find the sweet spot.)
looking good man. what s up with the wheels?
I haven't been able to find a set of rims that I like in a CRX but those rims in 16's would be sex for my taste.

how much do those Work wheels go for?

Those in 15x7 are $950 from Infinit Wheels.
 
Im sure you set the valve lash cold but just asking?

Buy this tool, its worth the 20 bucks.

648827lg.jpg

Good job so far, some things I might of done different but overall at your age damn good job.
 
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Im sure you set the valve lash cold but just asking?

Buy this tool, its worth the 20 bucks.

648827_LG.jpg


Good job so far, some things I might of done different but overall at your age damn good job.


What tool? If there was a pic its not working.

Also he is doing a good job for any age if you ask me. I certainly was not as car savvy at his age.
 
not sure why the pic didnt work but its up now.

its a lot easier in these times to be car saavy.

all you need to have is patience and do research and you should be able to do almost anything in terms of building our cars.
 
Im sure you were able to as I used to do the same thing. I finally got so mad when I would tighten it down and the nut would move everything so slightly and I would have to do it again! I found that tool and its a breeze and cut down the time to do it in half.
 
Yeah, you're so right. It did tighten up every time. I eventually had to set the valves loose then when I tightened them they would be at spec. And they all have a slight drag, one size up (0.001 in) wouldn't fit.
 
Chipped P06 with a P30 stock basemap chip from Xencron (spell?) 4500 sounds amazing to me. I wait forever for VTEC to come, especially with the long gears. I probably need tuning, no one around though. Might have to travel to Seattle in the worst case.
 
low on oil possibly, causing the car not to build enough pressure until later in the RPM band? VTEC 'noid on its way out?

shaved sunroof = fail dont do it
 
low on oil possibly, causing the car not to build enough pressure until later in the RPM band? VTEC 'noid on its way out?

shaved sunroof = fail dont do it

oil level, dented oil pan, or clogged solenoid are the main issues for vtec being late/non-existant.

also, i know it may not be as fun, but 6k really isnt that bad for an engagement point. My prelude was set at 5900. You couldn't feel the difference but you could see the difference at the track.
 
low on oil possibly, causing the car not to build enough pressure until later in the RPM band? VTEC 'noid on its way out?

shaved sunroof = fail dont do it
Oil level has always been perfect. Either my solenoid, cam seal or VC gasket is leaking though. I should replace them all.
oil level, dented oil pan, or clogged solenoid are the main issues for vtec being late/non-existant.

also, i know it may not be as fun, but 6k really isnt that bad for an engagement point. My prelude was set at 5900. You couldn't feel the difference but you could see the difference at the track.

Pan is dented a little bit but I don't think nearly enough. Solenoid screen has always been clean. I think the solenoid may be leaking a bit and lowering the pressure = late VTAK.

Once I can afford a descent header I plan to get it tuned then the tuner should set VTEC engagement to suit the powerband. And I think I want to delete the pressure switch in the ECU, nothing but problems for me.

My idle is high again too but I think my tach signal is fucking up, it jumps around some times. :( I've been thinking about the tick and it cant be the valves because most of the time its quiet. I think its a worn LMA. The more time out of VTEC, the more the LMAs get used? So if this motor just putted around its whole life then the LMAs could just be worn.
 
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