Brad's CRX Build

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I'm starting to believe my tach signal from the dizzy is my only problem, not VTEC. When idling at full temp it reads 1100 RPM, but the motor sounds to be at 800-900. Like theres no way its at 1100 RPM. So 300 RPM difference plus the stock VTEC engagement of 5600 RPM = 5900 RPM.

Looking into dizzy now. Maybe having the polarity on the CYP sensor has done damage. I also notice the tach jumping around when accelerating.
 
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I would look very closely at the sensor in the dizzy - that could cause it all if it's hosed up.
 
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After work today VTEC engaged at 5500-5600 every time. But idle atill reads 1100 even though its at 800 (I get a bad trunk rattle that only at that low RPM)

I think hub centric rings will fix my wheel issue. The concept seems right to me plus they're cheap and I have bad wheel vibrations. What do I measure so I can order? Imma whip out the school ruler to get dem mm's yo.
 
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I have twice and they come out great. When I bolt them down at least one wheel doesnt line up with the hub and it rolls bad. I thought it was the bolt holes drilled wrong but rings should center it.
 
sounds like you have a bent wheel, or a fucked hub.

i would find the real issue, and not use some cheap fix that may cost you big.

if its the hub, you could end up losing your whole wheel assembly including brakes if it breaks loose.
if its the wheel, it could snap and rip off, potentially taking other things with it.

not a bet i would personally take.

find a friend with wheels that you can swap for a quick trip, if that fixes the issue, then your wheels are fucked.

if it doesnt, then you know you have a bad hub.

or is it just one hub that always never seems to line up no matter which wheel is put on? if thats the case, then obviously, you need to swap that hub.
 
Hubs are not the problem. I bought the wheels, all was smooth, crashed the car & broke a wheel, bought one wheel and put it on the front, got bad shakes, put it on the back most of the shake went away, put it on the front and put it in gear with the wheels in the air and it doesn't bolt on center on the hub.

The rings should take up the gap to center the rim then the lug nuts should hold the wheel on. Only about a $20 investment. I got told to use hub centric rings with aftermarket wheels anyway because OEM Honda wheels have proper hub size to mount them center to the hub.
 
i have never heard of all this hub ring ghetto rig shit. just find some damn OEM wheels and call it good. lol
 
Most aftermarket wheels are not made for specific cars so the hub size is generic. Even if the bolt pattern fits your car, the center will be larger than the car's hub lip.

It is said that if you mount the wheels properly using the star pattern, it should mount into the center. The hub centric rings are adapters that will allow you to put the wheels exactly in the center and have them fit snugly onto the hub lip.
 
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Any major wheel dealer sells hub-centric rings. I'm surprised you've never heard of them Matt. they're not a ghetto fix at all.
 
you need to go to a wheel shop and have them find the correct size rings for your wheel/hub.
 
I think I remember him buying the wheels at Discount Tire Direct. Call them up again, they will point you to the proper set. We had shitloads of them always in stock. If you dont want to wait, just buy whatever they tell you locally.
 
I have never had to use a set of rings, never understood how a plastic piece is supposed to keep the wheel centered, like said before if you torque the lugs properly it should be fine. :dunno:
 
Yeah when I got the wheels from Discount Tire they would have supplied the rings but they didn't because I didn't have my car there. I'm just going to measure the wheel bore and my hubs then go to a local tire shop.

Thanks to all for the input!
 
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efhondakid said:
I have never had to use a set of rings, never understood how a plastic piece is supposed to keep the wheel centered, like said before if you torque the lugs properly it should be fine. :dunno:
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I'm with you. I've never had any issues like this. Tapered lug nuts are designed to be self centering. Wheel needs to be mounted without any pre-load condition - i.e. air under it and no contact with the ground and then properly torqued.

Issue manifested after car was wrecked. I would look to find the problem.

:cool:
 
^Its with the wheel.

Matt and I dumped the suspension the other day. Tucking hard but I hate it, gotta go back up to a slight low stance cause the upper control arms slam the shock towers constantly.

MY WHITE HATCH GO TOTALED!! My mom got rear ended in it. My dad is looking into 06-11 Civic Si's now. We'll see what happens...
 
Raised up the suspension because my wheel wells got beat up. Fuk that slammed shit. The wheels rubbed all over the wells, upper control arms hit the shock towers and my coilovers got beat up from rubbing on the knuckles. Made horrible noises but I'm just glad everything is good again. I can't even explain how bad it handled too.

Some days my tach reads normal, most days it doesn't, I've grown to live with it. I keep on getting TPS code. Gonna have to get another one (4th one on this motor) and my throttle response feels weak. My idle is roaming again even with a known good IACV so I'm going to block off the FITV and try that. My bottom rad hose is about to burst (old and re-used from the LS swap). The thermostat isn't functioning great, after a VTEC run it loses all temp I guess because the water pump is spinning so fast, going to try a OEM Honda one next. The motor is taking a little bit of oil but at the rate its going it equals to a liter every oil change, its leaking mostly, got new gaskets just got to do it. lol My head is still ticking really weird. I really think its the LMAs from looking at videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJhfVDmYTeA&NR=1

My dad bought the Civic back from the insurance guys. Worth the $200 for a good Si motor/trans, interior and I'm taking the fresh front suspension for my car. :)
 
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GlassHeadlights said:
Raised up the suspension because my wheel wells got beat up. Fuk that slammed shit. The wheels rubbed all over the wells, upper control arms hit the shock towers and my coilovers got beat up from rubbing on the knuckles. Made horrible noises but I'm just glad everything is good again. I can't even explain how bad it handled too.

Some days my tach reads normal, most days it doesn't, I've grown to live with it. I keep on getting TPS code. Gonna have to get another one (4th one on this motor) and my throttle response feels weak. My idle is roaming again even with a known good IACV so I'm going to block off the FITV and try that. My bottom rad hose is about to burst (old and re-used from the LS swap). The thermostat isn't functioning great, after a VTEC run it loses all temp I guess because the water pump is spinning so fast, going to try a OEM Honda one next. The motor is taking a little bit of oil but at the rate its going it equals to a liter every oil change, its leaking mostly, got new gaskets just got to do it. lol My head is still ticking really weird. I really think its the LMAs from looking at videos:

YouTube - problem with bad LMA on B16A1

My dad bought the Civic back from the insurance guys. Worth the $200 for a good Si motor/trans, interior and I'm taking the fresh front suspension for my car. :)
Click to expand...
No more "Slammed Shit" - you're learning well Grasshopper. Most of us learn that one - my lesson was 30+ years ago with a 1977 El Camino. Unless doing full blown suspension redesign/rework to lower for racing, it's nothing but stupidity on the street with some 1/2 baked job. Even if one spends the money to really do it right and come out with a lowered and properly tuned suspension - running on the street just doesn't make sense.

Have you checked the dizzy sensors? Tach Strobe sensor and wiring?
 
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