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I agree...its close to having enough clearance for expansion and such. But I'm skeptical that I can attach that black adapter to 10AN.

I'm falling down a rabbit hole. Electric water pump and 16 volt battery sans alternator. No more belts. Haven't pulled the trigger. Probably $1500+ and do the work myself.
No clearance issues now. Just gotta plug the hole and figure out a new way to have a catch can set up.
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Don't mess with my fuzzy fake crocs. Been cleaning off the Hondabond. Probably paint it with some high temp silver I have and then get back to square one.

Came out pretty good. Make shift paint booth from a heavy duty cardboard box, old broom handle, two bolts, too much painter's tape, and some bent up clothes hanger. I'm no master with a flap wheel but it could be worse. Paint doesn't match the block but neither does the transmission so we're good to go. Looks better than the tarnished aluminum, JB Weld and my sanding.

Now I can get back to installing things and feel like I'm progressing. Paint needs to cure more. About 3hrs dried at time of picture on block.

Almost back to square one. Applied Hondabond and torqued water pump housing back on the block, installed the thermo housing and water pump.

Probably get the IM on today. Gotta put the alternator relocator kit back on 1st.

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Pretty sure the hood don't shut. Its super close and maybe I can just drop the hood and send it but I'm hesitant. Done for the day.

Ha. Pound out some clearance while keeping things symmetrical. Right in my wheel house.
Had to remove the top hats off my ID1050X injectors so I could use the stock studs and spacers (for mounting the fuel rail). They were like an extension of the fuel injector (I guess to fit an array of applications). Picture after it fits is bad lighting. Sorry. Glad it got sorted. I'm getting irritable with set backs.

Now I have a new problem. The spout off the upper coolant housing sits too close to the outlet of the fuel rail. I can make it work with a 45° AN fitting but it's pretty close. It struggles to start threading but is smooth once it is going.. I can't clock the spout anymore and hope to ever open up the rad cap. I'm probably going to remove the spout and cap it. Waiting to find out the size. I think its -12AN. Cool product and idea but not the best situation for my needs.
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