Resleeve a D series block to run 18psi. No. Not neccesary. not even for 20psi. Its not like many drive around running 18psi all the time. But yes, oddly enough, you could. A good friend of mine does. I will be as well soon. Its quite simple really. Im not saying its gonna hit 11's, but i know for a FACT that it hits 12.6(with slick) while in a full interior 1998 4 door. My engine is going into a gutted 1992 Civic Cx. Im not going to argue which engine is better. There's always something better in someone ELSES opinion. The main engine focused in on this site is the B series engine. Sure a little H here, some D there, maybe some K questions nowdays. But lets face it, ya'll love the B. Hell, I do too! Still though, the D is good.
Some good points were made about engine building in this discusion by hexen and some by lsvtec, but some assumptions were made without actually testing or experience. Sleeving for high boost on a b series is plain common sense if you want it to really last, its an aluminum block! But the D is cast Iron(maybe not the norm today, but good for cheap turbo apps), which allows for infact up to 20psi from my experience. Now, that much boost isnt run all the time, I will admit its somewhat lower for normal driving. 18psi to be exact , for well over a year now with NO problems( I'm not saying dont sleeve it, I'm only saying what can be done).
Now, for what's been done to the engine, most of which were recomended by some of the wiser members of the Hondaswap forum. Forged Pistons (9:1 soon to be droped lower), Forged rods, reground, balanced crank and blueprint, all new gaskets of course. All the misc bolts were also replaced with supirior products. Head work consisted of port/polish, Ferera highlift oversized valves, titanium springs and retainers, and some minor regrinding work to allow for supirior flow. The cams being used i dont remember, but they were of a turbo specific grind. Fuel system- 440cc injectors coupled with a Rising Rate system, 255 highflow fuel pump, and Emanage to name the important aspects. Turbo was a turbonetics T3 for the 12.6 run, now a T3/4 running throuh a massive Spearco Intercooler all using an street type wastegate. List keeps going, but either way its long. All this for less than a similarly built B series as we have one of those being built now(Way more expensive). No radiators were replaced, no axles, no custom transaxle systems used. just a 6 puck with a extreme pressure plate.
It comes down to tuning, and driving for speed. I wont say that you can just build a fast engine. The engine is powerful, the car itself becomes fast, but not without skilled control of the car and ALL its systems. Tuning is also key, it can never be stressed enough. I'm not saying that D is better, I dont think that any are really "better", its how you build it and maintain it. B series has more parts, true, but trust me, D is cheaper, I'm doing it. I did the math before hand, Its costing me about the same as a GSR(sure its close to 3000, plus shipping, good mounts, wiring harness, etc. Though i hear one of our board members can get better deals which I'm more than happy to hear) with full bolt on's, MSD, some sweet $400 rota's with good tires, and maybe an APC stickers or some tire flies to make my ride "Proper"(watch HighRev Tunerz).
We hear "It's just a D series, its not fast" frequently. In the right hands it can be. Anyway, hope that at least show's that its not a pointless endevour. Anyway, I look forward to responses that I'm full of bs, or not(that would be nice). Either way. Good luck building whatever engine you choose. Take your time, do it right, and have fun. Oh, and i do plan on posting time slips when two things happen: a) I get my engine installed, broken in and have some tuning time, and B) it stops raining and i can go to the local drag strip and get in some track time.
props to Calesta on the Badass Engine . Hope any problems you have are minor and few.
Some good points were made about engine building in this discusion by hexen and some by lsvtec, but some assumptions were made without actually testing or experience. Sleeving for high boost on a b series is plain common sense if you want it to really last, its an aluminum block! But the D is cast Iron(maybe not the norm today, but good for cheap turbo apps), which allows for infact up to 20psi from my experience. Now, that much boost isnt run all the time, I will admit its somewhat lower for normal driving. 18psi to be exact , for well over a year now with NO problems( I'm not saying dont sleeve it, I'm only saying what can be done).
Now, for what's been done to the engine, most of which were recomended by some of the wiser members of the Hondaswap forum. Forged Pistons (9:1 soon to be droped lower), Forged rods, reground, balanced crank and blueprint, all new gaskets of course. All the misc bolts were also replaced with supirior products. Head work consisted of port/polish, Ferera highlift oversized valves, titanium springs and retainers, and some minor regrinding work to allow for supirior flow. The cams being used i dont remember, but they were of a turbo specific grind. Fuel system- 440cc injectors coupled with a Rising Rate system, 255 highflow fuel pump, and Emanage to name the important aspects. Turbo was a turbonetics T3 for the 12.6 run, now a T3/4 running throuh a massive Spearco Intercooler all using an street type wastegate. List keeps going, but either way its long. All this for less than a similarly built B series as we have one of those being built now(Way more expensive). No radiators were replaced, no axles, no custom transaxle systems used. just a 6 puck with a extreme pressure plate.
It comes down to tuning, and driving for speed. I wont say that you can just build a fast engine. The engine is powerful, the car itself becomes fast, but not without skilled control of the car and ALL its systems. Tuning is also key, it can never be stressed enough. I'm not saying that D is better, I dont think that any are really "better", its how you build it and maintain it. B series has more parts, true, but trust me, D is cheaper, I'm doing it. I did the math before hand, Its costing me about the same as a GSR(sure its close to 3000, plus shipping, good mounts, wiring harness, etc. Though i hear one of our board members can get better deals which I'm more than happy to hear) with full bolt on's, MSD, some sweet $400 rota's with good tires, and maybe an APC stickers or some tire flies to make my ride "Proper"(watch HighRev Tunerz).
We hear "It's just a D series, its not fast" frequently. In the right hands it can be. Anyway, hope that at least show's that its not a pointless endevour. Anyway, I look forward to responses that I'm full of bs, or not(that would be nice). Either way. Good luck building whatever engine you choose. Take your time, do it right, and have fun. Oh, and i do plan on posting time slips when two things happen: a) I get my engine installed, broken in and have some tuning time, and B) it stops raining and i can go to the local drag strip and get in some track time.
props to Calesta on the Badass Engine . Hope any problems you have are minor and few.