Matts96HB's EJ6 Build
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I haven't read throught the whole thing either.Im not the guy that hadn't read through it. The noob was.I've just clicked "Last Page" so many times that I hadn't noticed just how many pages I was clicking on.
What can I say - just thought I'd jerk your chain and see if you would come out of your cage and play...I've skimmed through most of it, but honestly don't really remember it - looked at a few. Been following the last few pages though.
Welcome to the forums ya little prick.
You know I'm always ready to be an a-hole right back.I haven't read throught the whole thing either.
I toned it down though cause I remember the last time you didn't take it so well. lol
I most certainly did get my panties a little knotted up over the paint hazing - sorry bro.You know I'm always ready to be an a-hole right back.
HeavyC619
was like u, but i evolved
Welcome to the forums ya little prick.
Thanks Ass Clown!
Daddy is here to play hahahaha
HeavyC619
was like u, but i evolved
Nice. The GSR head will do some good. hopefully, shit wish i could be in the passenger seat to video tape you doing some pulls. I WISH
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I used truck bed liner on it so it'd be durable. I plan on sanding the letters down to the bare metal and thats about it. And yes the engine is at a funny angle because it is basically resting on a jack with one mount in the car so I can work on the broken bolt.
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To jack it far enough wold darn near be pulling it completely out: 3 mounts, radiator & heater hoses, fuel line, exhaust, maybe a ground or two. That's still probably a better option than tearing up the fender well. Some jobs just suck. I've been putting off installation of a new high flow fuel pump in mine.
Having removed a few broken bolts & studs, I don't get too excited about it. Generally, I just plan on installing Heli-Coils as the threads in aluminum generally suffer some trauma, and call it a day.
Good luck with it Matt.
Having removed a few broken bolts & studs, I don't get too excited about it. Generally, I just plan on installing Heli-Coils as the threads in aluminum generally suffer some trauma, and call it a day.
Good luck with it Matt.
Yeah, I actually got it jacked up far enough to be semi-workable. But, I am still not having any luck getting the damn bolt out. My hole isn't perfectly on center either.
Any strategies for removing this? Even if I have to use a heli-coil, I'm fine with that. The problem is getting the hole drilled on center.
I've looked in to using nitric acid to dissolve the bolt and not the aluminum, but it seems that there probably won't be enough surface area to make this possible, and a small amount of aluminum would also be dissolved.
Any strategies for removing this? Even if I have to use a heli-coil, I'm fine with that. The problem is getting the hole drilled on center.
I've looked in to using nitric acid to dissolve the bolt and not the aluminum, but it seems that there probably won't be enough surface area to make this possible, and a small amount of aluminum would also be dissolved.
Can't keep a drill on center to put a pilot hole in it? I'm probably make up a guide tool/plate that would bolt up to the block using water pump attaching holes on either side, adjacent to the problem hole. Then, use a robust drill bit, not a standard twist drill, but the Craftsman set drill or a center drill on it. You can use the water pump to locate the holes in the plate.
If theres already hole in the busted bolt, I dont think any drill will help "move" the hole to center.
Keep in mind, this next bit is what I do when my work piece is loaded in a machine and I have all my cutting tools at my dispossal.
I usually get an end mill as large as possible while still being smaller than the hole your workin with, plunge into the hole and slowly work it in position. Ive done this with 1/8" and 1/16" bits in Dremels and hand drills before.
The problem with trying to move a hole with any drill, is they dont use their sides to cut, just the face. No matter how sturdy you guide it, as soon as your off the face, it will deflect. End mills dont have that problem because the flutes are sharp as well.
Keep in mind, this next bit is what I do when my work piece is loaded in a machine and I have all my cutting tools at my dispossal.
I usually get an end mill as large as possible while still being smaller than the hole your workin with, plunge into the hole and slowly work it in position. Ive done this with 1/8" and 1/16" bits in Dremels and hand drills before.
The problem with trying to move a hole with any drill, is they dont use their sides to cut, just the face. No matter how sturdy you guide it, as soon as your off the face, it will deflect. End mills dont have that problem because the flutes are sharp as well.
The hole that I drilled is not on center. I thought it was, but the engine being at a funny angle kind of made it difficult to determine whether or not I was actually going in to the bolt straight. That guide plate is a solid idea. I think I'll do that if I decide to drill and retap the hole.
Interesting. I am kinda wishing I had just pulled the engine to work on it now.
A family friend is bringing his machinist's toolkit by today. It has a better handle for turning EZ outs and such (at least better than my harbor freight special) and a pen torch. I'll lightly heat the aluminum surrounding the bolt and hope that I can get it out of there.
This is something ya run into every now and again. It's not usually a first instinct to pull a motor to remove a broken bolt. But, in the end that may be what needs to be done here to do the job with minimal/no collateral damage.
Consider that you now have another stripe on each sleeve of your mechanics dress uniform.
I don't know which hole it is, but some of them if drilled through will hit water jacket or worse a wet oil galley or pressure channel. So, you may have your work cut out for you.
A newb alluded to, they never break clean, well almost never, I've had one or two break off fairly flat and been able to drill without much hassle. But, usually it's a friggin battle and the soft aluminum threads end up torn up. That's why I keep a full helicoil set around - it gets used every now and then - and reduces the overall stress level when doing the work.
Consider that you now have another stripe on each sleeve of your mechanics dress uniform.
I don't know which hole it is, but some of them if drilled through will hit water jacket or worse a wet oil galley or pressure channel. So, you may have your work cut out for you.
A newb alluded to, they never break clean, well almost never, I've had one or two break off fairly flat and been able to drill without much hassle. But, usually it's a friggin battle and the soft aluminum threads end up torn up. That's why I keep a full helicoil set around - it gets used every now and then - and reduces the overall stress level when doing the work.
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