Any Z owners besides Jeffie?

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...ex-350z owner (and it was black :) )


The 05 track and 35th anniversary have the rev-up motor as well

Depending on what you're going for, the touring and grand touring will have leather, gt's have the brembo's and some have nav..obviously they're heavier than the track. I had an enthusiast, so I got the LSD, hid's, but had cloth seats (which I prefer as I planned on using it for autox). I wasn't heart broken over NOT having the oem brembo's as the track version at the time fetched an extra $3k and I could just swap out my brakes for about $500 (what I paid for all 4 calipers and new rotors)

It's a solid car, well built, reliable (never had any issues)...stay away from the convertible and base models

Guess what, the only model that didn't have HIDs and LSD is the base model unless after 07 the enthusiast took over the base model trim.

Did you really have an enthusiast?

It's been debated with zero doubt that the base is hands down the best model for someone looking to get into a sports car at a good price, it's also has the fastest 1/4 mile times out of all the Zs why? Becuase it's the lightest even lighter then the track model.

What's it missing? LSD, HIDs, Metal pedals and controls on the streeringwell/cruse control.

I have a base and if I were to buy another Z I wouldn't think twice about buying another base.

He really needs to go over to my350z because every year Z had different little issues that goes with them and he needs to make sure those problems have been taken care of.

03-04 had major transmission issues, I think 95% of 03s have had their transmissions replaced within 15K miles of being new. some of them twice.

06 the revup motors I believe had major oil burning issues, most people on the forum had to argue with nissan but for the most part they all got brand new motors

If it wasn't the uprev it was the first year of the HR motors.

either way, get on my350z.com and look it up. each year is different.

For the most part its a solid car, but there were major issues that were fixed and since haven't been a problem.
 
I know the base is the only one without the LSD and hid's...?

The enthusiast is one step up...and you get those amenities along with a few others. That's great a base is a tiny bit faster in the 1/4 mile. He wants some bolt one and I'm sure some comfort features.

HID's are nice to have
I wouldn't buy a car without an LSD, it's too expensive and too much of a pita to add one afterwards
TCS again is nice to have, especially if you want to autox the car
Cruise control I don't care about, but some people do


Yes I had an enthusiast. It was an 03 with bolt ons and I tracked the shit out it. Never had an issue, never let me down only got rid of it because we were having a kid and figured it would be responsible of me to get a car with a backseat...
 
It's been debated with zero doubt that the base is hands down the best model for someone looking to get into a sports car at a good price, it's also has the fastest 1/4 mile times out of all the Zs why? Becuase it's the lightest even lighter then the track model.

What's it missing? LSD, HIDs, Metal pedals and controls on the streeringwell/cruse control.

I would totally go with the base model. LSD will be upgraded to a Kaaz anyways, and HIDs/metal pedals/wheel ctrls/cruise are all un necessary. Also, if hes going to ever put bolt ons or even a bolt on turbo kit, all the overpriced dealership extras will have to be removed.
 
I wouldn't buy a car without an LSD, it's too expensive and too much of a pita to add one afterwards
.

Pain in the ass, yes.

Super expensive? Not really. Paid around $800 for my kaaz and spend 2 days on my back w/a friend installing it in a driveway. Total pain in the ass if you dont have a lift. Probably still one even if you do.
 
I guess I'm retarded for having/wanting options on my car....
 
Pain in the ass, yes.

Super expensive? Not really. Paid around $800 for my kaaz and spend 2 days on my back w/a friend installing it in a driveway. Total pain in the ass if you dont have a lift. Probably still one even if you do.


REALLY? that much of a PITA? some dude in NH had one out and in my old 240sx in like 2 hours.
 
REALLY? that much of a PITA? some dude in NH had one out and in my old 240sx in like 2 hours.

There is a sliding scale between PITA and $$$. Things become less of a PITA whilst they become more expensive.

When you dont know much, and dont want to spend much money, things are a major PITA.

* This was with us installing the lsd into the pumpkin and then swapping pumpkins. lol
 
Alright need some help on this...

Found an awesome 06. Grand Touring, low mileage, beautiful

low price

reconstructed title :-(

I spoke to the owner who assured me it was a minor fender bender. The guy seems on the level, he bought this for his wife but she wanted something more comfortable so now she had a Lexus and he's trying to pay off the loan. He doesn't seem like some kid who got dooped into buying a rolling wreck and is trying to pass automotive herpes onto someone else.

Still, I don't do anything on trust. I scheduled an appointment with a well reviewed auto body shop for the day of the purposed test drive. The shop manager said that, as a uni-body car, frame damage can usually be spotted through visual inspection, squaring the vehicle, etc. If something looks fishy he quoted me about $110 to have the frame measured. I'm wondering if a carfax might give me detailed data on the wreck (never bought a reconstructed title before so don't know).

Personally, assuming there is no permanent damage, I could give a flip about a reconstructed title. All that means to me is a lower price, I will be driving this thing for awhile so resale value isn't a huge factor to me. Even if it was, factor in the low price, it all comes out in the wash. But maybe I'm missing something, wouldn't be the first time.

Thoughts?
 
I spoke to the owner who assured me it was a minor fender bender. The guy seems on the level, he bought this for his wife but she wanted something more comfortable so now she had a Lexus and he's trying to pay off the loan. He doesn't seem like some kid who got dooped into buying a rolling wreck and is trying to pass automotive herpes onto someone else.

Sounds like a truckload of bs, delivered by a true salesman.

Minor fender benders dont result in salvage/reconstruction titles.

Wifes car = never beaten on, rpms below 4k all day, babied like his youngest child. Yeah right, car was pry some teenagers graduation present that he totaled.

He doesnt seem like a scammer because the best scammers never do :)
 
like I said I am having it professionally looked at and would only consider buying if blessed by a bodyshop.

To clarify, he bought it reconstructed for his wife, I would be the third owner.

EDIT: I wasn't asking if I could trust the guy. My question is this: IF it checks out, both to me and the body shop, is there any reason not to buy it other than the negative "stigma" surrounding a reconstructed title? I currently drive a 97 LS Teggy with a reconstructed title. It's fine other than miles and years, so I know there are good cars out there with a mark on their record. But I'm not buying a 14 year old daily driver so greater scrutiny is needed.
 
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I have a friend in MA who was in the autobody business. They used to take 2 totaled honda civics, one with heavy front end damage and one with heavy rear end damage, and just weld the two good halfs together.
 
good for you, my friend once made a front bumper for a integra using wood, chicken wire, and bondo.
 
i think i saw that one you are looking at. test drive it and take it to a good shop. maybe even the dealership.

run the carfax. for a $200 investment today, you could save thousands now and down the road.
 
Caz,

What you posted doesn't even approximate "good advice." It is anecdotal hearsay. At best it is good advice to stay away from your friends; noted. This car will be professionally inspected. I obviously will not buy if anything is amiss. My question, as stated above, was if I was missing something.

You wanna talk shenanigans? Overnight parts from Japan? Etc. Fine, but your story has no bearing on my situation. Everybody knows somebody who pulled a fast one with a used car, that's why I'm having it professionally inspected.
 
From what I hear, welding 2 salvage titles together isnt all that uncommon. If you dont like my help, you dont have to take it.
 
From what I hear, welding 2 salvage titles together isnt all that uncommon. If you dont like my help, you dont have to take it.



a couple of mirage guys have cut and welded the EVO front clip to their cars, same chassis etc so its not too bad. same with the rear floor. i dont see any problems as long as it is reputable and inspected properly.
 
do not touch a branded title car
you'll get half the value (just to move it) when its time to resell it because no one will want to touch it
trust me on this one, i've seen friends go through it over and over and over again
DO NOT TOUCH!

Personally, assuming there is no permanent damage, I could give a flip about a reconstructed title. All that means to me is a lower price, I will be driving this thing for awhile so resale value isn't a huge factor to me. Even if it was, factor in the low price, it all comes out in the wash. But maybe I'm missing something, wouldn't be the first time.
I've heard this line countless times. Trust me its hard as fucking hell to move a rebuilt branded car and you will regret buying it.
When it comes down to it, whats your life worth? What if the airbags don't deploy in a crash? What if the seat belts don't lock up like they should?
Too many what if factors that aren't worth your life.

edit:
and some practical advice if your heart is set on it
check the tires for wear, if they are new you can probably assume its got a wear problem
check the hood, door, fender, rear gaps
see if they are all uniform
bring a tape measure and measure the spaces between tires and front/rear of fenders
measure front to back, measure ground to the wheel well on both sides
i've seen some mean work done on unibodies, everything comes apart with a spot weld driller and the rewelds are generally covered over with seam sealer and a paint brush with thinner, or a gloved finger to make it look factory
listen for abnormal wind noise, test drive other Z's to compare to this one
if the quarters were replaced (can be real hard to spot) they will generally rust out must faster than stock ones due to lack of coating on the inside and the welds, look for paint bubbles, runs, misshaded paint between the very front and the very back to see how the blending is done, dirt in the paint
 
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