Taco's Crx type R build
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Exactly what codes is it manifesting? Working from memory here, there are 3 different position sensors as I recall. Crank angle, TDC and a divider. The ECU needs to know where the engine is relative to TDC of #1 and it uses another of the for injector triggering.
I believe 2 of three are used for ignition and 2 of three are used for injectors. One common signal is used to index both. One of the signals pulses 25 or 40 times per dizzy revolution depending upon how new it is.
If the signals are reversed or out of phase it can screw things up. This is what I remember from troubleshooting mine early last summer. I believe it can cause limp mode. That should be in the wiring stuff I sent you.
Look in the Helms file named 62SR300B.pdf page 23-98 and it shows the 3 position sensors.
Seems like if one gets wired backwards it can run limp mode - I'm not certain, on this but would check it out as a part of the troubleshooting. I think I read that somewhere when doing the troubleshooting on mine.
Crank sensor code - there you are.Thanks! I'll check the CD and see what's up. thanks by the way....it helped ALOT during the trouble shoothing and rewiring process.
It's the throwing the crank angle sensor code.
I don't know if it's in the dizzy or not on that engine. Is there a sensor anywhere on the crank or on the exhaust cam? If not, then it's probably in the dizzy.
What make and model year is the engine? I'll try and do a little research. What model distributor is on it? As in my ZC has a TD-43U OBD1 on it.
One of the other guys should know this - somebody familiar with that engine.
Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
based on what I have been reading it's in the dizzy.
It's the blue wire on the top NOT the blue wire next to the large BL/YL.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2863542
thanks to the same site I fund the pinouts and will be tracing the pins B and B16 to make sure they are going to the dizzy properly.
I was looking at the harness and they seem fine so it leads me to believe there are wires coming out of the ECU either not connected or they need to be bypassed somehow.
it;s dark now but I'll see what I can see tomorrow or the weekend.
Other than that it runs just drive like poop.
It's the blue wire on the top NOT the blue wire next to the large BL/YL.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2863542
thanks to the same site I fund the pinouts and will be tracing the pins B and B16 to make sure they are going to the dizzy properly.
I was looking at the harness and they seem fine so it leads me to believe there are wires coming out of the ECU either not connected or they need to be bypassed somehow.
it;s dark now but I'll see what I can see tomorrow or the weekend.
Other than that it runs just drive like poop.
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Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
yeah and I think somehow it's either not connected or it's swapped with the tach wire....
I wish I had more daylight when I get home
EDIT: can't be swapped...the tach works fine. so I'm assuming somewhere in the harness it's not making it to the right pinout on the ecu.
I wish I had more daylight when I get home
EDIT: can't be swapped...the tach works fine. so I'm assuming somewhere in the harness it's not making it to the right pinout on the ecu.
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CEL #4, Crank Sensor. Check the continuity from the dizzy connector to the ECU connector. Could be a bad connection or the two wires to the crank sensor swapped.
If memory serves me correctly, it sets up when the ignition switch is turned to the START position, by reading the TDC pulse. That tells the ECU when #1 is at TDC. It then uses pulses from the CPS divider signal to setup the ignitor pulse to fire the spark. The cylinder position signal is used, again referenced from #1 TDC, to pulse the fuel injectors. They did it like that because the injectors fire at a given point relative to the cam and intake valve condition and the ignition is variable with regard to the timing advance curve.
The ECU is looking for a voltage transition from the CPS that is either positive to negative or negative to positive from the crank sensor. Only works correctly one way, so if the wires are swapped it's going limp.
If memory serves me correctly, it sets up when the ignition switch is turned to the START position, by reading the TDC pulse. That tells the ECU when #1 is at TDC. It then uses pulses from the CPS divider signal to setup the ignitor pulse to fire the spark. The cylinder position signal is used, again referenced from #1 TDC, to pulse the fuel injectors. They did it like that because the injectors fire at a given point relative to the cam and intake valve condition and the ignition is variable with regard to the timing advance curve.
The ECU is looking for a voltage transition from the CPS that is either positive to negative or negative to positive from the crank sensor. Only works correctly one way, so if the wires are swapped it's going limp.
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Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
Alright everything is almost buttoned up. The harness year didnt match up at the plugs so the iat and crank sensor wires were switched. Now all the codes are gone and the crx did its first run
No vtec though. It's one wire so I'm curious what to do with the vps if not using it?
I can't remember. Does it get disable when tuning or is there another way to wire up?
No vtec though. It's one wire so I'm curious what to do with the vps if not using it?
I can't remember. Does it get disable when tuning or is there another way to wire up?
Now you can put the "Stretchy Pants" on and cruise the local High Schools in it...... Just make sure Mrs. Taco doesn't find out.
Modding one of these cars - talking engine swaps, is a PITA. The mechanical ain't that big a deal, and it's straight forward. The Wiring is real MOFER. Many of the schematics use color reference designation only and when a harness is wrapped up and/or installed ya can't always see the phuking colors. Or, they are faded, dirty, it's dark, in a shadow, behind whatever or some crap.
While I like the color ref des, they should also use pin numbers on the connectors and have pictures of the pin layout of the connectors in the schmetics and clearly identify which side and view of the connector the pinout picture is referenced to or from.
Life would be a hell of a lot easier.
Of course, the schematics were never intended to be used as reference materials for modifications. And if they added the additional detail it would drive up costs - which would end up on the sticker price of the vehicles.
Just make sure Mrs. Taco doesn't find out.Modding one of these cars - talking engine swaps, is a PITA. The mechanical ain't that big a deal, and it's straight forward. The Wiring is real MOFER. Many of the schematics use color reference designation only and when a harness is wrapped up and/or installed ya can't always see the phuking colors. Or, they are faded, dirty, it's dark, in a shadow, behind whatever or some crap.
While I like the color ref des, they should also use pin numbers on the connectors and have pictures of the pin layout of the connectors in the schmetics and clearly identify which side and view of the connector the pinout picture is referenced to or from.
Life would be a hell of a lot easier.
Of course, the schematics were never intended to be used as reference materials for modifications. And if they added the additional detail it would drive up costs - which would end up on the sticker price of the vehicles.
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Taco15
I wear stretchy pants
thanks to your shcematics, HS and my roommate the car would not have gotten where it is now. The car runs and drives fine. With that header on a Hondata S100 tune it put sdown 197 WHP so I'm pumped up about getting it tuned. Right now it just drives, it's nothing to brag about.
I still can't get over the wiring, it's looks like hell and just plain garbage. I'll try to take some pics of the cleaned up interior but this is what I have so far.
I still can't get over the wiring, it's looks like hell and just plain garbage.
I'll try to take some pics of the cleaned up interior but this is what I have so far.
That thing looks real clean on the outside. I still have to do the final wiring cleanup on mine. At the ECU and the run to the O2 sensor, puls the dizzy plugs - I ended up doing a total rebuild on the engine harness from the connector on the RH wheel well to the alternator and injector resistors. Full up tore it down and completely re-wrapped and such.
Maybe not quite as much wiring as you did - but a good deal of harness re-work. That's the right way to do it - not a bunch of Mickey Mouse adaptor crap. Not for me, I want the wiring clean and right for the setup. The harness looks factory in mine now, well the part on the engine that's finished. The ECU section will soon. I'm going to chop out the adaptor harness and hardwire it with correct connectors for the OBD1 ECU.
Glad we could help you sir. Nice having HS for some support when needed. You see the video CAFROG posted on his 5th gen K swap project? That thing is a little monster - wicked fast!
Maybe not quite as much wiring as you did - but a good deal of harness re-work. That's the right way to do it - not a bunch of Mickey Mouse adaptor crap. Not for me, I want the wiring clean and right for the setup. The harness looks factory in mine now, well the part on the engine that's finished. The ECU section will soon. I'm going to chop out the adaptor harness and hardwire it with correct connectors for the OBD1 ECU.
Glad we could help you sir. Nice having HS for some support when needed. You see the video CAFROG posted on his 5th gen K swap project? That thing is a little monster - wicked fast!
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Damn, looks good. Really makes me want to say "screw finances" and go get a CRX shell.
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