Brad's CRX Build

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

wikedeye said:
Why are you switching them if the ones you have are good? Wont it just add to any wiring confusion that may be present already? If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Click to expand...
Exactly - I'm taking my '91 hatch to OBD1 ECU, distributor, and O2 sensor - but leaving the OBD0 MPFI injectors, wiring harness and resistor box in it as the injectors are only a year old and in great shape. I don't know what condition the one's in the DOHC ZC are.

If you do elect to use the different OBD1 injectors I would soak them in solvent like kerosene or paint thinner for a couple of days - carb cleaner or lacquer thinner is probably too strong for extended soak. Then use some spray type carb cleaner on them after soaking in milder stuff.
 
Last edited:
GlassHeadlights said:
Just a cleaner install is what I'm after. It shouldn't cause any problems in my mind.
Click to expand...
I'd wait on the injector change until you know it runs - if the other injectors are known to be in good shape. Changing that length of harness isn't that big a deal if you do it later. You can do the splices just above the thermostat and below the fuel rail.
 
Last edited:
It does run fine on the B16 injectors, except the first time I started it up the # 4 injector sprayed all over the place. I took off the rail and bolted it back down and after a couple fuel pump cycles it sealed up.

I took out the screens on both the D16 and B16 injectors and the B16 ones are cleaner so I have the D16 ones soaking in paint thinner for now.

102_1330.jpg


OBD0 injectors on top, OBDI injectors on bottom. Yes I cleaned the OBDI injectors.

102_1331.jpg


The harness is all taken apart.

102_1332.jpg


YAY !! GOOD shielding wire ! :) One of four 02 wires in the EG harness is shielded so I'm going to do the same.

102_1333.jpg
 
Last edited:
Haha it better. I let the screens soak for about an hour , shook the bucket they were in and I saw 4 shriveled pieces of crud in the bottom. :) So I blew compressed air through them and they're like new ! I could barely blow through them before. I have confidence in using the OBDI injectors now.
 
Last edited:
Got everything back together correctly and no difference. Except I gained a coolant leak and low voltage problem. I put a volt meter up to the battery and it drops slowly until the dash lights dim and everything dies unless I hold the throttle up. I want to put the trustworthy B18 back in and beat on it some more to relieve some stress...
 
Is the ECU the same for both engines? Have you swapped any of the sensors besides the TPS? Is the engine ground wire connected?

What's up with the alternator not charging correctly? That could be the problem.

Here's something - on the karts, the shifter has a magneto and no battery - push start in 2nd or 3rd gear. The Formula Rotax however has a 12v battery and electric start. There is no charging circuit for the battery, so it must be maintained with an auxillary charger. Take 3 batteries to track to run kart.

Anyway, when battery condition isn't fully charger the engine will start up and run in the low end, but above about 8000 RPM it lays down. I had a weak battery when I first bought the kart and it drove me nuts for a couple of weeks - took it to track and motor start ok and take off, then it would lay down and backfire above about 8000 RPM - I finally figured it out. Now I have a load tester for the sealed lead acid (SLA - like Optima) batteries as well as a special SLA charger.

Your engine could be giving it up for the same reason - the ignition, when the engine revs up puts more demand on the electrical system - if the alternator or charging system is jacked up that may be your problem.

When engine running the battery should be 13.8v or a little higher.

A guy with a turbo boosted engine (I think it was on a thread on this site) was having dyno problems with it laying down at high RPM's and it was the alternator.
 
Last edited:
I was using an OBD0 PR4 ECU before but now I'm using the chipped P28 with a P30 chip to run the B16. No I haven`t used any other sensors but I get no other codes. Yes I have all 3 grounds on the motor in the factory locations.

I switched the orange and white wires on the distributor wiring because one is + and one is - for the CYP sensor and my code went away ! It runs better, but still studders, but I`m on the right track.

I watched the volt meter on the battery and if I keep the RPMs above idle it reads at least 13.5 but if I let it idle it goes down to about 10.3 and it even went into the 9s for a bit and thats when the gauges get really dim and the tach cuts out. I don`t recall this problem at all before.
 
Battery could be on it's way out. Put it on a charger to bring it up to full charge - then see if it holds up - if you don't have a load tester, the headlights will work to test it. You can also charge it up (if you have a charger) then take it to a parts store and they will load test if for you.

When they get to 12v they are essentially dead. Basically, battery condition is between 12 & 13 volts wth turned car off. 12.5v would be 50% charge condition, 12.7v would be 70% charge condition and 13v full charge.

You may want to have the alternator tested too.
 
The battery has always been good but its on the charger now. If it fails again I can get it load tested at work.

One thing I noticed was that I never have a battery light. Never. The JDM alternator came with a 3 wire plug and my USDM harness has 4 wires. The JDM alternator has all 4 pins in the plug so I thought it would be fine. I can also use my LS alternator if the JDM is failing, I know it works great.

I can't thank all of you guys enough...mod-man, Matt, wikedeye, thank you all. I would be fairly lost without you guys.

Could my dizzy be fucked from running the CYP sensor on reverse polarity for about 2-3 hours?
 
Found coolant leak. Fixed soon.

I tried a P28 chip in the ECU, no change. Tried different plug wires, no change. Checked timing and its right on the red mark on the pulley. It still runs like shit. Misses at idle lots, idles evenly some times and I can rev it as high as I want but if I give it too much throttle it sounds like running on 3 cylinders.

Could there still be something wrong with the distributor wiring? I have NO more codes.

Oh and it looks like my alternator is out, I'm swapping out the LS one next.
 
Last edited:
I checked each function of the distributor and I believe its working 100% now.

However I rechecked the TPS calibration again to humor myself and it was out. So it should read 0.5v at closed throttle and 4.5v at full open throttle. When I set the closed to 0.5v, full open reads 4.61v. And when I set the full open to 4.5v, closed throttle reads 0.4v.

That could be an issue.
 
just out of curiosity... have you tried connecting an unmodified/wire tucked harness to it??? just to see what it will do???
 
No and I still have my stock Si harness sitting on my LS. I can't see it being the problem. I have no more engine codes and when the motor idles its happy. Doesn't even miss anymore. Just when you give it too much gas. Its gotta be an ignition or fuel problem. Maybe the injectors...hmmmm....

Another note, the plugs are golden color, look pretty nice. Clean exhaust when revved too.
 
Last edited:
ok bud, quick question... i know you said that all the timing marks are lining up... but have you tried to set base timing? engine at N.O.T? short out the ecu then set base timing with a timing light... 18 degrees... i had a similar issue... and even tho all my timing marks were dead on, i forgot to check and set base timing...
 
Thanks ! I also pulled out my Haynes manual for Integras and theres lots of detail on the B17A1. :) I have some more things to check now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
1988 CRX SI BUILD
2
Replies
30
Views
9K
dilbeckskate
dilbeckskate
S
b20b reliable 350 HP build.
Replies
5
Views
11K
TurboMirage
TurboMirage
AHHVTEC
Small build
Replies
8
Views
2K
Matts96HB
Matts96HB
S
Starting an EJ1 Build
Replies
7
Views
2K
awptickes
awptickes
T
Turbo build
Replies
1
Views
2K
Matts96HB
Matts96HB
Back
Top