lostsoulzprophet
delslow
im with ^^^^
Brads EJ1 Coupe
- Thread starter GlassHeadlights
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GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Lol. D-series is out. Time to clean the bay and install the new x-member.
You're going to wait on the 68mm throttle body? I just thought about it, I went from 55mm to 61mm on my rig and bumped the compression ratio up to 10:1. It's running a modified P29 chipset in the ECU.
You mentioned a potential for a performance decrease with the 68mm on stock ECU and cams. That is possible. Closed loop operation of the ECU is for cruising and uses feedback from the O2 sensor to lean it down. When the throttle gets hammered WOT it goes open loop and runs off the tables (maps). The air flow increase with the 68mm TB could offset things more than the ECU can adjust for, hence a net performance decrease. Without a tune of course.
It's got me wondering, maybe I should tune mine. I know the rev limiter is 8k on the P29 chipset, but little else about it with regard to ignition timing and fuel delivery maps.
It runs much better than the stock P06 and even better than the P28 ECU. Guess I outta find out what WTF I'm actually running.
You mentioned a potential for a performance decrease with the 68mm on stock ECU and cams. That is possible. Closed loop operation of the ECU is for cruising and uses feedback from the O2 sensor to lean it down. When the throttle gets hammered WOT it goes open loop and runs off the tables (maps). The air flow increase with the 68mm TB could offset things more than the ECU can adjust for, hence a net performance decrease. Without a tune of course.
It's got me wondering, maybe I should tune mine. I know the rev limiter is 8k on the P29 chipset, but little else about it with regard to ignition timing and fuel delivery maps.
It runs much better than the stock P06 and even better than the P28 ECU. Guess I outta find out what WTF I'm actually running.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Yeah I plan on waiting to put on the TB. I tried to install it earlier but it doesn't line up with the GSR manifold very well. So I may have to wait for a Skunk2 IM or Edlebrock IM ect. By then ill have a 3" exhaust and it will be time for a tune. 
Steve I would go ahead and get it tuned. It should be broken in by now. Plus I'm sure you would see some piwer gains plus MPG gains.
Steve I would go ahead and get it tuned. It should be broken in by now. Plus I'm sure you would see some piwer gains plus MPG gains.
I believe you are right Brad - in both cases. I need to finish the cleanup and get the little monster tuned. I would guess a few more ponies and it runs pretty good now - in fact, it runs damm good now for a mildly built DD!!!!Yeah I plan on waiting to put on the TB. I tried to install it earlier but it doesn't line up with the GSR manifold very well. So I may have to wait for a Skunk2 IM or Edlebrock IM ect. By then ill have a 3" exhaust and it will be time for a tune.
Steve I would go ahead and get it tuned. It should be broken in by now. Plus I'm sure you would see some power gains plus MPG gains.
When I do mine I can put a thinner head gasket on it and bring it up from 10:1 to 10.5:1. I'll probably get some ARP Studs and go for it. WTF!
By the time you get tuned, your ride should be running real good.
Did Matt get the cam timing pulley installed and setup?
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GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Yep Matt has been tweaking his a bit. He's noticed a bit of gains. My dad has installed his too on his Si 4 door EF, he's very pleased too. Good you brought that up because it's past January, I owe you a cigar payment sir.
After running one on the old D16A6, I will always use adjustable. Nice to be able to tweak it a little and yes the difference is noticeable for sure. I adjust for low end gains, to make it more driveable - with the least sacrifice on the top end of course. Advancing the cam, closes the intake valve sooner and that's where the low end improvement comes from - the trade off is the top end. The intake valve timing is what the VTEC controller changes in the VTEC equipped engines. Cigars are holding up well, end of month is what I have figured all along sir - that will be just fine.
I didn't get around to the exhaust bracket yet, been working on house music system wiring. Speakers throughout house and shop, also switched over to cable internet so I ran all that wiring too. Weather will be improving in February, as soon as I get the wiring job done, I'll transition back to the Hatchie.
Stock I picked up for the bracket is 304 stainless steel - once I see what it takes, I'll chop off a couple pieces for you. (a little longer that what you will need - I ordered and forgot about it so I ordered again - there's enough stainless stock to bracket 4 or 5 cars)
1 piece
Stainless T-304/304L Annealed
Rectangle
0.125" x 1.5"
Cut to: 48"
-------------------------------------------------
1 piece
Stainless T-304/304L Annealed
Rectangle
0.25" x 1.5"
Cut to: 48"
-------------------------------------------------
1 piece
Stainless T-304/304L Annealed
Rectangle
0.25" x 1.5"
Cut to: 24"
-------------------------------------------------
1 piece
Stainless T-304/304L Annealed
Rectangle
0.25" x 2.0"
Cut to: 24"
On the back of the block, the unused holes for the pilot shaft mount, or axel stubs or whatever they are called are where I plan on mounting to. Build a bracket that hangs down from there. Then weld a bracket to the header at the aft side of the oil pan, in line with the bracket hanging down from the block and bolt the two together.
Probably will also cut a relief slots in the top side of the header tubes forward of the front side of the oil pan, then raise the rear of the header up about 1" at the flange in front of the catylytic coverter and weld them back together as it hangs down just a bit lower than the stock did.
Should be a fun little project.
I didn't get around to the exhaust bracket yet, been working on house music system wiring. Speakers throughout house and shop, also switched over to cable internet so I ran all that wiring too. Weather will be improving in February, as soon as I get the wiring job done, I'll transition back to the Hatchie.
Stock I picked up for the bracket is 304 stainless steel - once I see what it takes, I'll chop off a couple pieces for you. (a little longer that what you will need - I ordered and forgot about it so I ordered again - there's enough stainless stock to bracket 4 or 5 cars)
1 piece
Stainless T-304/304L Annealed
Rectangle
0.125" x 1.5"
Cut to: 48"
-------------------------------------------------
1 piece
Stainless T-304/304L Annealed
Rectangle
0.25" x 1.5"
Cut to: 48"
-------------------------------------------------
1 piece
Stainless T-304/304L Annealed
Rectangle
0.25" x 1.5"
Cut to: 24"
-------------------------------------------------
1 piece
Stainless T-304/304L Annealed
Rectangle
0.25" x 2.0"
Cut to: 24"
On the back of the block, the unused holes for the pilot shaft mount, or axel stubs or whatever they are called are where I plan on mounting to. Build a bracket that hangs down from there. Then weld a bracket to the header at the aft side of the oil pan, in line with the bracket hanging down from the block and bolt the two together.
Probably will also cut a relief slots in the top side of the header tubes forward of the front side of the oil pan, then raise the rear of the header up about 1" at the flange in front of the catylytic coverter and weld them back together as it hangs down just a bit lower than the stock did.
Should be a fun little project.
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GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
That sounds like a great plan. How would I have to adjust my welder to weld stainless? I could do exhausts!
I swapped the k-members last night. I was worried the GSR one would be tweaked from the crash but it lined up perfect!
My 1" GSR booster/master cylinder I will be using. I need a flare kit.
I swapped the k-members last night. I was worried the GSR one would be tweaked from the crash but it lined up perfect!
My 1" GSR booster/master cylinder I will be using. I need a flare kit.
lostsoulzprophet
delslow
looking good so far.
I don't know about stainless yet. I know the recommended gas is a 3 gas mix of Argon, Nitrogen (or C02) and 1% or 2% Oxygen to make it hot. I haven't tried messing with it yet. But, I will do some test practice welding on some of the excess stainless stock on hand. I still need to get a spool of stainless wire too. I'll do it the next month or two - when weather gives a nice 3 day weekend and that won't be too far away - probaby the end of February.
I'll post up some pictures of what I end up with and how I got there. The MIG machne I got is a Hobart Handler 210. I also picked up a SpoolGun for it so I can do aluminum work - videos look like they work pretty good.
I'll post up some pictures of what I end up with and how I got there. The MIG machne I got is a Hobart Handler 210. I also picked up a SpoolGun for it so I can do aluminum work - videos look like they work pretty good.
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
Nice!! I'll be looking forward to that write up! Aluminum work would be sick too!
My dad picked up these wheel dollies to move cars around in the shop, lo and behold I needed them. It took two dollies on the back and our new "race jack" on the front to spin the car around so I could clean the engine bay.
MY NEW FRIGGIN HEADER CAME!! And so did I
Aluminum work would be sick too!My dad picked up these wheel dollies to move cars around in the shop, lo and behold I needed them. It took two dollies on the back and our new "race jack" on the front to spin the car around so I could clean the engine bay.
MY NEW FRIGGIN HEADER CAME!! And so did I
lostsoulzprophet
delslow
awesome. id like to get one but yea. cant wait till you got it in
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
I was really debating it when it came up on sale, but I just had to do it lol.
I'm thinkin either way it will open up the motor a fair bit. B16 is using a similar 4-1 and it works for him.
Yeah, but Mike doesn't run the "Ghetto Master" Catback that traverses diagonally across the bottom of the car...
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I still laugh at this one every time I see it! ROFL!!!Apparently to Roughedupanus, I am.......
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