Finally back in the garage....

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Lol, you were going to get a new alum flywheel/clutch setup anyway!!!

As for the engine, I'd just tear down and rebuild it anyway. Its certainly not beyond your capabilities! Gives you more excuse to buy shiny engine stuff too. Shiny stuff that won't be seen again once the motor goes back together.
 
Rockauto.com for the calipers


-and I can probably find a 5-15% discount code on gvr4.org
 
done and done...

got rear axle calp's, hub's, bearings and everything for the engine inspection like oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, timing belt, water pump,and wp gasket... etc for $380 shipped today from Rock auto.



Next big items on the list is a header, clutch disk, pressure plate, TO bearing, flywheel, ...I'm thinking ACT 4-6 puck spring'ed disk, with an 8 lb flywheel, but I got to think about the extremely huge wheels and tires..... I just can't decide if I want more momentum on the FW or just use the holding power from the clutch to turn them...and keep them turning... via the throttle body.....

torque will suffer.....if I make a bad choice.
 
not much math out there to decide...

15 lb wheels, 24 lb tires, B20B with GSR trany, autocross, DD, stiffest chassis possible, kidney's still fine due to healthy beer consumption.

Commute is 30 miles..... autocross is 60 seconds...
 
The CRX 84-87 torsion bars are available in 29mm at ~432lbs (Race), 27.5mm at ~350lbs. (Competition), and 24.0mm at ~204lbs. (Sport)....and 31mm at ~uhmmm insanely stupid hard....

Here's a small class for the guys reading that have no idea what a torsion bar is.... a normal car has a shock and a spring over the shock or next to it....these older cars used a torsion bar set up...which is a bar that is made of spring steel, mounted in tubes, that are mounted on the frame of the car... normally mounted 90 degree's opposed to the movement of the force...yada yada yada.... bigger the bar=stiffer the ride....


Some people have came to the house and pushed the crx before at the previous meets,...well.....it's not going to be the same anymore. :ph34r:


Stock on the bottom...and the kidney busters on the top...

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and some more parts came...

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I like the kidney busters. I need some thicker ones on the truck.... did you custom order those? Decent cost? Pre-made torsions for a Hardbody aren't cheap. :(
 
not much math out there to decide...

15 lb wheels, 24 lb tires, B20B with GSR trany, autocross, DD, stiffest chassis possible, kidney's still fine due to healthy beer consumption.

Commute is 30 miles..... autocross is 60 seconds...


only CART autox is 60 seconds buddy. go to other clubs, their laps can last up to 2.5 minutes ;)
 
ohhh...I'm loving Ebay...

I ordered 88 teg rear brembo blanks, and I get 03-07 Accord Brembos.... That are like $80 each... so I scored $160 worth of parts for $50.... now if I could just sell them...anyone need 2 OE ref # 42510-SDA-A00 rear rotors? $120 ???

I really need 2 OE ref # 42510-SD2-A00
 
Here's a small class for the guys reading that have no idea what a torsion bar is.... a normal car has a shock and a spring over the shock or next to it....these older cars used a torsion bar set up...which is a bar that is made of spring steel, mounted in tubes, that are mounted on the frame of the car... normally mounted 90 degree's opposed to the movement of the force...yada yada yada.... bigger the bar=stiffer the ride....
I've always wondered what they were, but never investigated it because I never had to deal with them. Still a little fuzzy on how/where they mount though.
 
while waiting on bushings and the steering rack to get here...I went ahead and cleaned up the lower front x-member, and started assembling the front brakes...

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one done...3 more to go...
 
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