K20A2 EG Project Car

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wow, thats funny all you guys are having such a big issue with the lca bolts, i feel lucky, mine came right out without lube or anything, poped out like it was supposed to do.
 
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I just did that replacing my old suspension. I had to go with new LCAs because those bolts were stuck like whoa. Hell, they're still stuck. I soaked them for a week with three different kinds of penetrating lube, air hammer, air chisle, sledge hammer, torch, NOTHING would get those bastards to budge. I got the wicked tuning LCAs from ebay and am pretty happy with them. Nothing amazing but they get the job done. And they give you an icy hot stunna look from the rear. :thumbsup:

*edit*
Here is the thread where I asked for suggestions as to how to break loose the bolts. Several good ones in there. One might work for you. -----> cLiCkY <-----

I was looking at Omni LCAs. $100 for the pair isn't that bad. How much for new bolts and do I have to get them from Honda?


Steve
 
those lca bolts are $8 apop through honda. i busted the head off both mine too when i was putting my urithane kit on.
 
I just picked up my FAL Race kit. Now I just need to get all of the windows on the side of the car and get some tabs and a support welded on the for the rear and front window respectively. That's pretty much the last of the exterior work needed on the car.
LCAs will be here next week. I'll finally be ordering my tires so that I can get this hunk closering to done. :)

Next on my list is the engine. Ron from IPS will be shipping my cams, springs and retainers soon as well.

I'm really cutting it close for the 2006 season. Worst case is that I miss the first 2 races...but no damn more than that! :)


Steve
 
:thumbsup: IPS

and everyone breaks lca's. honda used the wrong kinda material on the bolt and bushing... those 2 different metals just fuse together over time.

only way to do it is to press out the bushing and replace that with a new one w/ new bolt.
 
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:thumbsup: IPS

and everyone breaks lca's. honda used the wrong kinda material on the bolt and bushing... those 2 different metals just fuse together over time.

only way to do it is to press out the bushing and replace that with a new one w/ new bolt.


LCAs should be here today or tomorrow.

Shopping and "To Do" List:
  • Cam/Spring Install (would prefer to have this done in a cleaner environment than my garage.)
  • Fuel pump
  • Fuel lines
  • Fuel fittings
  • Wiring
  • Gauges
  • Tires
Lots of work but I now have a "team" to help me out with the time intensive stuff.

Steve
 
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and everyone breaks lca's. honda used the wrong kinda material on the bolt and bushing... those 2 different metals just fuse together over time.

only way to do it is to press out the bushing and replace that with a new one w/ new bolt.
The problem is they didn't use antiseize on them. Every honda I have ever done suspension on, I antiseized everything and 2 years later when I pull them off again, they come out with no problems. So make sure you antiseize everything when you put everything back together.
 
Hopefully picking up the 2 LCA bolts today so that I can get my temp wheels back on the car. Omnis arrived last week and are installed minus the shock bolt.

I also zip tied the fuel cell in it's final resting place in front of the driver side wheel. Just need to have a "cage" built around it and weld it to the frame rail.


Steve
 
Misc pics:

EGK1320-123.jpg

EGK1320-124.jpg

EGK1320-125.jpg

EGK1320-126.jpg

EGK1320-127.jpg

EGK1320-122.jpg



Steve
 
Started mounting my lexan today. I also picked up the LCA strut bolts and installed the driver side only to partially strip the passenger side from the damn Koni strut thread being jacked up. SO, I'll either need a new strut or to bang off the bung and just use a bolt and a nut/lockwasher.

:thumbsdown:


Steve
 
Sawzall off the stripped nut and use a bolt and a nut from Home Depot or somethin...screw buying a new strut.
 
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Sawzall off the stripped nut and use a bolt and a nut from Home Depot or somethin...screw buying a new strut.

You must be smoking something if you thought I was going to pay for it. :) Swap it out was what I was considering. But yeah, I'll be getting a grade 8 bolt, nut and lock washer to lock that bitch in place.


Steve
 
keep me updated. Here soon you might have a similar hatch staring you down ready to run. Should be fun.
 
lucky bastard i cant believe you paid only 3500 for motor and trans i paid thtat for my ctr motor last year,, what do sponcers do for you and how would you even get one
SWEET RIDE!!!!!!!!!!11 :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy:
 
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lucky bastard i cant believe you paid only 3500 for motor and trans i paid thtat for my ctr motor last year,, what do sponcers do for you and how would you even get one

I didn't get a ITR motor for one, I got a K20a2 from an RSX-S. I'm not into the JDM hype and it doesn't make sense for what I'm building for.

Sponsors have helped with parts for the most part. Still negotiating though. :)


Rear windows are mounted:

window_rear1.jpg


window_rear2.jpg



Working on the door windows now.


Steve
 
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