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motor has 3,000 miles head reground everything resurfaced block bored and honed to 81.5mm arp rod bolts acl rod bearings 11:5:1 compression molley coated pistons crank and rods shotpeened and micropolished rotating assembly rebalanced gsr intake manifold new type r oil pump itr water...

first ill give you the setup weisco ib spec rods weisco ib spec pistons 13:1 compression greddy timing belt stage2 kevlar clutch fidanza flywheel portflow port and polish portflow dual valvesprings and retainers supertech valves blox tuner hsl camshafts aem adjusable cam gears mugen valve...

i dialed in the cam timing and the crank to exactly 0,0 at steady engine speeds or in a higher rpm the knock sensor code comes on i set the ignition timing as close as i could get it with a timing light but it was all the way advanced and because of that code i cant use vtec, its a brand new...

are there dual valve springs and retainers any good?a friend is givin me a deal on them he also gave me a pair of stage 2 cams... i cant find any info on them i dont care much for the cams but will the dual springs and retainers work for a high lift camshaft like the pro2?

im building an na car. the block is built and reinforced and has 11:5 compression. im putting in a new skunk2 valvetrain and pro2 cams after the build is complete would i later be able to supercharge it? if so how much boost can it handle?

ok so after all the forums i went through i have decided... for my block i have 11:5:1 comp arp rod bolts balanced and weighted rotating assembly and for the head im going with super-flo 6000 series ferrea valves skunk2 springs and ret, profab header and skunk2 pro intake mani.. now for my...

i just put the engine back into my car after building the block i have put 100 miles on it and the check engine light comes on it feels weak and powerless also at no matter what rpm im in if i put the pedal all the way down it sounds like the vtec is trying to kick in, i want to check to see...

so i got the motor back into my car it tries to start and it backfires and thats about as far as it will go... do you think my timing is off? maybe a ground or something.. i have the p72 ecu so it doesnt have the light on it how can i check to see if im throwing a code?

heres a few pics before taking the engine apart. yes the engine bay is green the green bay, cv axles blew cleaned up as much grease as i could better view dirty trany. 4th and 5th gears blow... rebuilding nest week with type-r lsd more pics up tomorrow

im taking the motor out of my integra gsr, are there steps i need to take and shit to plug or do i just take everything apart and pull it out. i have all the bolt on stuff out and the drive axles out. what steps should i take?

next year i was thinking about putting a b20b block in my car.. think i may transfer all my gsr parts to it because all i want is the bore. i hear the sleeves in this are weak.. but with my gsr internals and 12:1 comp pistons i can hit a more realistic power number. this wont happen till after...

i know its not jdm looking but tell me what you think. i did everything to this car in my garage. including paint work tell me what you think

yellow circle. im cleanin out the engine bay while my engine is out. what can i get rid of

im cleaning up my engine bay. i want to take out as much stuff as possible without fuckin up anything, a/c is already gone, im taking abs out (can i just remove it or do i have to do something specific?) and there are a few things i dont know what to think about.. as in dont know what they are...

how much more tq and hp does the ls/vtec make over the gsr. both with itr pistons. just curious

i pulled my spark plugs and there was oil on my 1st and 3rd spark plug, not alot but they were wet could it be a bad valve seal or bad piston rings? as you know im rebuilding the block. just want to make sure the head is not fowled

as far as my knowlege a 3 angle valve job is good to do because it helps your valves seat in better and tighter but people keep telling me its a wast of money,.. is this ture?

i know the ls crank and rods will give me better torqu becuse the displacement is 89mm instead of my gsr crank... if i were to just use my gsr crank and rods and put high cp pistons in there is the only thing im going to loose is tq? from my understanding the ls crank will give me about 15ftlbs...

i already know the answere to this but im double checking rod and main bearings. ls crank ls rods in a gsr block im going to use ls bearings correct

ok, im going to list everything i am wanting to safely touch 9k ls rods (bead blasted and balanced) hasting 11:5:1 flycut pistons moley coated ls crank micropolished and balanced gsr block arp rod bolds and head studs block hot tanked and honed stage2 clutch and 7lb flywheel gsr head 3angle...